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LEARN FROM MY STUPID MISTAKE!
-- CO$T TO YOU: FREE! --

APPLICATION: Any internal combustion engine powered transportation device that uses on-board electrical system, battery, and electric start.

THE SYMPTOMS: Despite new battery and new alternator, the car would repeatedly crank but not fire if when first starting I did not turn off all accessories prior to turning key, turn key, wait up to 5-10 seconds for fuel pump sounds to stop, and THEN crank the starter. I tolerated this behavior for 6 weeks (interestingly starting immediately after I did airbox and exhaust mods that entailed battery disconnection/reconnection).

THE RECENTLY DISCOVERED CAUSE: While working on splicing in new headlight bulb sockets, I discovered that when completing my big project weeks earlier, I had reconnected both the (+) Positive and (-) Negative battery terminals... BUT I NEVER TIGHTENED THE RETAINING BOLT ON THE (-) NEGATIVE TERMINAL!!!! A 'wiggle check' of those connections resulted in my having to reprogram my radio as the (-) Negative terminal was floppy loose and lifted right off!

PERFORMANCE POST 'FIX': Fuel pump is activated and completes its initail pressuriszation of fuel rail w/in 1 second of turning key to 'ON' position. Car starts immediately when key is turned (repeatably, too) regardless of the on/off status of various accessories, EVEN WHEN KEY IS TURNED QUICKLY FROM OFF TO START WITHOUT DELAYING AT 'ON' POSITION!

Laugh at me for a bit... then go out and double check your own exotic modifications for stupid little careless oversights!! I humbly suggest starting with the battery terminal clamps.

UNNECESSARY DETAILS ABOUT MY APPLICATION: 1996 Ford Escort LX wagon with 1.9 L SEFI (single overhead cam, fuel injected, OBDII ecu, etc.), automatic transmission, 189k miles on odometer. Stock with exception of very basic mods to intake, ignition, & exhaust.
 
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