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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i made a discovery, that i need new front bearings and an halfshaft, i know how to do the bearings, but i need to know what kind of crap is involved with the replacment of this. Anyone ever have to change one? And what tools am i gonna need to change it?
 

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Changing a halfshaft.... envolved but easy:

Okay, here's how it goes:

Put the front of the scort on jackstands. Remove the wheels. Helped me to take the calipers off, but you actually can go without. Unbolt the balljoints from the control arm. Get a I think it was a 22mm socket and get the axlenut off. The axle will pull out from the spindle...then push the spindle and strut and everything away. Use a hammer (rubber prefered) and knock the axle out. Put new axle in, and reassemble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so what your sayin is its not a hard job to do, what kind of tools am i gonna need. Im assuming the balljoint press or whatever it is. And then a rubber mallet, and a 22 mm socket. I tthink my dad has all that. I hope its as easy as it sounds.
 

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Hmm... basic took kit to start. Add one 22 or 24mm socket for the axle nut, flat head screw driver for getting the notch tapped into locking the nut in place (used in conjuction with the hammer). The Hammer. Possibly a pickle fork (but I didnt need one) for the balljoints. Some PB Blaster works great if there's some rust.

I think that's about it...other then jackstands and rags to catch all the oil that will come spilling out.

--g'luck
 

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one word for ya: plasmacutter

just joking...

anyway, when we did my engine swap, the axle nuts would NOT loosen (not even with an impact gun, not even a breaker bar with 5 foot extension!!). I guess 175k miles took their toll on the axle nuts/splines.
We ended up leaving the outer intact and just pulling the inner joints out of the tranny.

good luck, I hope iy goes better than mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this nut should come off fairly easy. with all the tools my dad has, it come off. At least i hope so. I plan on doing this sometime soon, so ill let you all know how it goes down.if anyone has any other tips just lemme know here.
 

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TheBlade said:
Changing a halfshaft.... envolved but easy:

Okay, here's how it goes:

Put the front of the scort on jackstands. Remove the wheels. Helped me to take the calipers off, but you actually can go without. Unbolt the balljoints from the control arm. Get a I think it was a 22mm socket and get the axlenut off. The axle will pull out from the spindle...then push the spindle and strut and everything away. Use a hammer (rubber prefered) and knock the axle out. Put new axle in, and reassemble.
Also, to add to this. Dont forget to replace the bearings inside the half shaft joint and also, if you bend the "metal seal" If you arent sure what i mean by metal seal, its a round metal plate that seals against the housing just like a paint bucket lid. When i swapped my engine, i bent the seal and it dried out and i had to replace that whole shaft...so dont forget to do that!!!!
 

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I just read the service manual, and it mentions putting some sort of plug in the transmission to keep the differential from moving and removing an engine support. Do I really need to do all that? Or do I only need the transmission plug thing if I'm planning on having both halfshafts out at the same time?
 

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You need to put a wooden dowel in place of where the axles went. This prevents the differential gear from toppling over inside the transaxle.

And what are you talking about by the transmission plug? It's been a while since I worked on a transaxle... the majority of my experience is in the realm of a RWD transmission. But the general rule is don't try to keep gear oil in the tranny... just drain it all out so it doesn't make a mess, and then when you have it all back together, put in fresh new oil.

I haven't taken out the halfshafts in an escort before, but if I were to do it... the easiest way is to start taking components off the steering knuckle. Essentially, the only thing holding the axles in the tranny is the stuff bolted to the steering knuckle. If you just start unbolting it, then you can take off the steering knuckle and slide the axles off easy as pie. Alternatively, you can take the engine off the mounts and hoist it upwards and get them out, but that's a pain in the butt, and the engine bay of the escort is kinda cramped.

In essence, the distance between the splines of the axle (tranny side) and the splines of the axle (steering knuckle side) are at a fixed distance. You need to do one of two things:

1. increase the distance (hoist the engine)
2. remove one of the sides of the things holding it in (tranny or steering knuckle)

I've heard of people prying it out of the tranny with a crowbar. I never really thought that was a great idea... puts lots of stress on the CV joints and it's probably a pain to get back in. I dunno.
 

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siragan said:
You need to put a wooden dowel in place of where the axles went. This prevents the differential gear from toppling over inside the transaxle.

And what are you talking about by the transmission plug?
You referred to it as the wooden dowel. I had assumed that you had done halfshafts on an Escort before. I think if I ever do one myself it will be on the right side and leave the left side to a mechanic.
 

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i cannot believe no one cought this yet...dont spend money on a 22 or 24in socket, it is a 32mm socket that is the right size for the axle nut.
 

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I did the left (driver) side shaft on mine. It wasn't fun, but I'm sure it's easier than the right (passenger) side shaft. For the driver's side, you DO NOT have to remove the cross-member (contrary to what Hayne's says) and I recommend that you don't remove it.

This is not a difficult job at all. Getting the half shaft out of the hub took me forever but that was all. Some guys have had trouble getting the shaft out of the differential, but if you get a big enough pry bar (and I mean big) and find the right point of purchase, it'll pop right out.

It's a bit awkward when you're only on axle stands, by the way.

Also, replace the wheel bearing while you're there. I recommend taking the hub to a shop - have them press out the old bearing and press in the new one. I attempted this myself without a press and it was a trying experience that wasted a lot of time. A shop will do this for $20.
 
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