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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled the motor and trans out of this 95 gt and put a different block in with good piston rings. In the process I managed to drop about half of the trans fluid. I tried to ad more through the speedo gear opening, but it seems to be well seated and I would really rather not break anything else. I'm looking for an alternate place to add fluid, possible a freeze plug? Is there some special way to remove the speedo gear? I removed the retaining clip, the odometer cable and the electrical connnector, but it is still well attached. What did I miss?
 

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those speedo gears can get really stuck in there, you can put a big pair of pliers at the base of it, if you turn the plastic part it will just turn the plastic so gotta watch and be careful, just put a slight twist on it back and forth and lift up while twisting, that's how I got mine out that was stuck for years, I figure that's why the guy never changed the fluid lol too stinking hard to get out. but a good twist on it while pulling up will usually break it free for you! try a good penetrating lube as well will make it go a bit easier too.

and if you don't wanna chew it up by using pliers you might be able to get a crescent wrench on it if the 2 tabs that hold the clip on are broken off, I know mine were already busted off so a crescent wrench fits on it.

That's my overly elaborate answer hope it works! if you can get it just a hair out then pry on it carefully with a long screw driver too that could do it too.
 

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I just finished a clutch swap yesterday so I know exactly what you're talking about. If you can get it to wiggle just a little bit (twisting or whatever) very very gently tap a screwdriver between the bottom flange and the transmission case. Then after it pops out you'll look at it and say, "how can it get stuck so bad?"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No, I removed the retaining clip and screw. I pulled on it good today and all I did was move the plastic bit up enough so that the speedometer and odometer don't work any longer. Stupid thing, I am never working on another transaxle car again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got it out today with a hammer and chisel hitting it until it rotated enough that I could pry it up, similar to what others have done. What a pain in the butt.
 

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yeah sometimes you just gotta break em to get em out! when you put in a new one clean it up good with a wire wheel, duh right, that'll keep it clean so it don't gunk up in there.

yeah it took me about 2 hours to get mine out the first time, it took vice grips and one big flat head screw driver from under the car!

anyway good job man!
 

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all of you STOP!

youre doing this the hard way-- you dont even need to pull the speedo drive gear to check the fluid level.

believe it or not, there are two 23mm bolts on the transmission.. one is the drain, and the other is the fill hole!!!!!!!!!

on the very bottom of the trans (to the wheel side of the bellhousing) there is a 23mm bolt with copper washer.. this when removed drains ALL fluid from the transaxle.

on the side of the transmission, above the reverse sensor is another 23mm bolt.. remove this and you fill the trans with fluid from here, it gets filled to the bottom of the fill hole.

so fill it until the fluid just starts to overflow out the hole. put the bolt back in tight and snug, and youre all set.

its a mazda trans.. the mazda tech at the mazda dealership i work at showed me this.. i was dumbfounded by how simple it is and have no clue why ford says to pull the drive gear.
 

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tturnpaw said:
did you also know that kia axles are larger and cheaper? provided you have a quaife lsd.
Or KAAZ. They used a higher spline count and a larger case in the Kia also. Personally I'd rather go with a KAAZ over a Quaife because the Quaife doesn't help you if you've got a wheel in the air.
 

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PonyExpress said:
all of you STOP!

youre doing this the hard way-- you dont even need to pull the speedo drive gear to check the fluid level.

believe it or not, there are two 23mm bolts on the transmission.. one is the drain, and the other is the fill hole!!!!!!!!!

on the very bottom of the trans (to the wheel side of the bellhousing) there is a 23mm bolt with copper washer.. this when removed drains ALL fluid from the transaxle.

on the side of the transmission, above the reverse sensor is another 23mm bolt.. remove this and you fill the trans with fluid from here, it gets filled to the bottom of the fill hole.

so fill it until the fluid just starts to overflow out the hole. put the bolt back in tight and snug, and youre all set.

its a mazda trans.. the mazda tech at the mazda dealership i work at showed me this.. i was dumbfounded by how simple it is and have no clue why ford says to pull the drive gear.
Just curious...
Does Mazda call for 3.3 qts of GL-4 gear oil like Ford does for ATF?
Thanks
 

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ajax said:
tturnpaw said:
did you also know that kia axles are larger and cheaper? provided you have a quaife lsd.
Or KAAZ. They used a higher spline count and a larger case in the Kia also. Personally I'd rather go with a KAAZ over a Quaife because the Quaife doesn't help you if you've got a wheel in the air.
I prefer a differential that will outlast the car and not wear out clutches. To each his own. Besides, we dont have our car in the air??? and what would the point be to have a front tire in the air? For any track, drag racing, or racing use, the tires will be on the ground, and if not (rally) it will be back on the ground soon and posi will enable in a split second without the car even wandering.
 

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Torsen diffs are fine for all of the other disciplines you mentioned but they suck for rally. Over rough terrain I've had wheels go airborne. It's usually just long enough for the wheel on the ground to lose power and the wheel in the air to spin up. Or if you have an off and you're high centered. With torsen, the wheel on the ground does nothing. With a posi type, both wheels spin at the same speed.

Your reason for liking Quaife over KAAZ is a sound reason, that's why OEMs use torsen diffs. But they don't provide as much benefit as a clutch type for off road use.
 

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yes, the quantity of fluid is the same, 3.2-3.3 qts is what shows on my digital fluid pump at work.

one other alternative is motor oil. gear lube tends to get thick and hard to shift through when cold, many mazda techs recommend a good qual. engine oil, 5w30 or 10w30.
 
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