[EscortRyan]

Hey everyone, I could really use some help on repairing my escort.
I've been working on it for 5 days with no luck. I won't go into the details but basically there's no spark and now i'm starting to check my ground cables.

Does anyone know where this connects to?
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/vv26 ... G_0513.jpg

Also can someone tell me where I can find the gounds for my car?

All your help is much appreciated because I am taking the bus t work these days.

Thanks

 

[topfile]

Not sure about the small connector. Is the Suppression Cap
mounted on your coil pack connected? It looks like the same
vicinity.

To answer your other question:
IF you have a Mutimeter dial it into the lowest Ohms range and
cross probes together to verify continuity. You should
see less 0.1 ohms or less if not clean the probes and connections.

With the engine and key off, proceed to test each ground by measuring
less than 0.3 ohms back to the Negative battery post to every wired
grounding point you can find under the hood. Make sure to probe
the connection point, NOT only the bolt.

Even if you don't have a Mulitimeter Clean G102,G103,G104,G106 and G114
grounds in the engine compartment:

1. G102, Under the Fuse box over the driver's fender at frame.
2. G103, Multi-ground found under the battery tray or between tray and firewall.
Usaully a white connector with multiple wires converging to a brass plated tab bolted to the car.
3. G104?, Multi-ground behind the driver side headlight on the frame
4. G106, Multi-ground bolted mid-way of passenger fender.
5. G114, right on the Head near the plug wires.
6. Main grounds connecting to the body above the battery.
7. Bracket attaching the heater inlet tube which holds your Coolant
sensors. Make sure it's tight to the block.
8. Verify the EDIS module (behind the fuse box) is tight to bracket
and the braket connects to the Driver side fender.
9. Verify connection of Suppression Capacitor at corner of coil pack.

Remove any rust/corrosion, use a fine wet sanding paper dipped in
distilled water to clean any plated connection. Try to preserve the
plating. Try to remove and minerals you may introduce during cleaning as
this could encourage later corrosion of connection. Thouroughly dry
before reconnecting. Tighten the connection well.

I'm not sure you'll resolve the probelm this way. How did
you verify no spark?

 

[Sparky34kv]

I just replaced that ground wire on my wagon yesterday. There should be a connector for it on the transmission, just below the area of the battery and air intake hose. It mounts near the cable harness that connects to the two wiring bundles to the transmission, at least to my automatic. It is just a male spade connection for the female one on the wire to slide onto.

 

[EscortRyan]

Thanks for the tips on the grounds and especially the location of where the strange ground wire goes.

I'm at work right now but tonight I'm going to clean and check the grounds you listed for me. That's extremely helpful!

Here are more details on my situation:
One day I went to start the car and the engine cranks but will not start. Here's my troubleshooting journey thus far:
1. Tried jumping the battery with the neighbors car [Didn't Work]
2. Replaced Battery: [Didn't Work]
a. Thought this was a simple idea and the battery was old anyway.
3. Replaced Fuel Filter [Didn't Work]
a. I noticed little fuel pressure with the key in the "On" position
b. Hotwired the fuel pump and there was plenty of fuel pressure
4. Check for Spark: [There is none]
a. Removed sparkplug cable from sparkplug and inserted screwdriver while screwdriver was close alternator for ground. No arc. Tested all cables
b. Sprayed starter fluid into Air Intake (No Help)
5. Replaced Ignition Coil [Didn't Work]
6. Replaced Ignition Control Monitor [Didn't Work]
7. Replaced Crank Shaft sensor [Didn't Work]
8. Replaced Computer "behind radio" [Didn't Work]
9. At this point I took a "timeout" and noticed when the key was in the "On" position the fuel pump would not start and none of the dash panel lights like [check engine] [temp] [seatbelt] etc. lit up.
10. At this point I think it's a ground cable issue or ignition switch

What do you think?

 

[topfile]

Wow! that's a lot of parts.

First, I'd remove the "hot" wiring mod for the fuel pump.

Then check if your fuel pump relay is activating. It's one
of two relays mounted in front of the EEC under the heater controls
next to the floor center well. If you turn your ignition switch to "On"
the Fuel Pump relay will activate and you should hear the fuel pump
located under the rear seat make a 3 to 4 second hum to presurize the
fuel lines.

The fuel pump relay is closest to the passenger. Lay a
finger on it as you turn to "on". If you don't feel it activate.
it could be several things.

-Ignition Sw.
-Relay
-blown fuse
-open in wiring

Get this circuit working properly first.

Tell us more. year, model, engine, automatic?,2 door hatch,ac, ps
????

 

[denisond3]

With the fuel pump running you should see about 40 psi on a 2nd generation Escort. As soon as it stops, the pressure will liikely drop several pounds. I think it should show about 30 psi with the engine idling, and would jump up a few pounds if you open the throttle quickly for a second.

All of the grounds on an Escort are probably important. The ignition switches (the electrical part) are also known to go out eventually. That electric part can be bought by iteself for aboutr $40 to $50. Its not too hard to remove the old and install the new. In fact, you can undo the connectors, plug them into the new ignition switch, and use a screwdriver to turn it. This lets you check its operation.
I had to replace the battery ground cable on my 92 1.9L, and along with the new cable, I soldered the other wires that formerly came to the funny little connector on that battery terminal. I made this soldered connection where the ground cable first is bolted to the cowling, near the battery.
When you say you replaced the ignition control monitor, do you mean the thing that has EDIS printed on it? I call that the ignitor, and its what actually drives the coil pack. They are expensive to buy new, but cheap in auto salvage yards. I carry a spare one on any long trip.

One other thing to mention, though its a l-o-n-g shot. There is a fuel-disconnect switch on the 2nd generation Escorts. If you go over a hard bump this thing will trip - and the car will NOT start until it is reset, nor will the fuel pump run. There should be a light on the dash when you try to start it in this case, saying "fuel-disconnect sw". On the wagons the switch/relay/button is located inside the trunk space, on the passenger side, inside the plastic cover for that strut tower. You pull off a little door, reach in an depress the button. I dont know where it is on the sedans, but its in the same general location. Some folks have had enough trouble with them that they bypassed it with a wire. Its purpose is to ensure the fuel pump doesnt keep running if you are in a wreck.

 

[Jeffescortlx]

2 common problems.

-timing belt.
-ignition key contacts.

 

[EscortRyan]

Everyone thanks sooo much for all your help!

It ended up being the ignition switch! Simple install and a 30$ part a Napa!

No I can drive to work tomorrow

 

[Sparky34kv]

Good to know, I had mine weld shut and the engine kept turning over from the starter after I shut the key off. They seem harder to find anymore, once I get my engine taken care of I need one again sonn.