[jwoodin84]

So I wanted to replace my rear shoes, and so far I can't get the drums off...they are incredibly rusted. The two screws that hold the drum on wouldn't budge. One was stripped, apparently someone else tried to get the drum off and failed?

Anyway, I drilled the screws out, but still can't get the drum off... tried PB blaster, heat, beating the hell out of it, but it just wouldn't budge. I know it has the threaded holes for inserting a bolt and pressing against the hub, but I couldn't find one that fit. Does anyone know what size bolt I need for that?

I also think I'm going to rent a drum puller from the Zone tomorrow and try that. Aside from that, does anyone have any advice, maybe something I haven't tried or am not aware of?

This is on a 94 escort lx. Thanks.

 

[FordMan59]

I don't know what size it is, but I think it's a metric thread. I remember they were a pain to remove on my dad's '94 when I did the rear brakes on it. If you find out what size they are I'd recommend getting some high grade bolts/screws so they won't snap when you tighten them down.

 

[EscorGo]

I never could get mine off so since I was getting the drums turned anyway, I took the spindle and everything to the brake shop. They slammed them a couple times on a bench and the drums came loose.

 

[madmatt2024]

I know this will sound really stupid but it happened to me once. Make sure the E-brake is off.

 

[LOWETGT]

I don't know if the starwheel adjuster is accessible, but if it is, you need to back it off. Thus pulling the shoes in, hopefully enough to get past the rust ridge on the inside of drum. I believe you need M8 x 1.25 bolts, if memory serves me right. Good luck!!

 

[denisond3]

I would call the adjusters inacessible. They dont use a starwheel, but a serrated segment of the horizontal bar that the e-brake bears against. Its easy to 'reset' once the drum is off.
If the drum doesnt want to come off the hub, (and mine didnt) then pry off the metal grease cover & unscrew that hub nut, so the drum and hub can come off together. You will probably still have to fight the drum off, using a hammer against the side of the drum (cylindrical part) and pulling it forward at the same time you hammer on the outer cylindrical part of the drum.
After I had the drum off, I used an electric drill with a small grinding wheel chucked, to take away the rusted lip of the drum; where the brake shoes dont wear it down. And after hammering the hub off of the drum, I cleaned up the two surfaces, with a wire brush and slightly grinding the inside diameter of the hole in the drum.
The two phillips head screws that hold the drum to the hub have the same size thread as the two threaded holes used for pushing the drum away from the hub. They were already stripped out on my 92 Escort.
If you have an acetylene torch, you can briefly heat the drum in the area of the hub to help that separate, and can also heat the outer circumference of the drum (cylindrical part) to help it slide over the brake shoes. In which case you would need leather gloves to work with the drum.

 

[jwoodin84]

So I ended up getting it off with the puller. Tightened it way up and then it came off with a loud pop. I was going to do the other side today, but now it's raining =(. Thanks for the advice everyone.

 

[EscorGo]

I cleaned mine up before I put them back on so it wouldn't happen again. I even etched and painted them black so they look better through the open rims.

 

[escortrio]

isnt the thread holes on both sides of the drum there to get the drum off

i used to screw a bolt in those to pop them off but now i can't find one that fits them.

 

[LOWETGT]

I don't know if the starwheel adjuster is accessible, but if it is, you need to back it off. Thus pulling the shoes in, hopefully enough to get past the rust ridge on the inside of drum. I believe you need M8 x 1.25 bolts, if memory serves me right. Good luck!!

That's a heck of a revival for info that is in the thread...