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the MTX75 is the transmission from the focus. it's incompatible with escorts.
 

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You have to disassemble the escort axles and rebuild them with parts from the mtx75.
I doubt its as simple as that. All CV joints aren't the same, you can't just mix and match axle parts. Not to mention the likelihood of where the axles fit into the MTX75 being in the exact same place as the G-series relative to the wheel hubs is highly unlikely. You would need custom axles plus custom tranny mounts for it to work.
 

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This is exactly what I needed!

I've never driven a zx2 manual, but I simply cannot imagine it being better than a mtx-75. Mine had shift tower problems, but with one of those custom "bulletproof" shift towers etc, I imagine the possibilities are endless with an mtx..... And god, the shifters feel so good!
Zx2/Escort G-series has better shift action than an MTX75. The MTX75 is cable operated and feels sloppy compared to the ZX2/Escort's direct linkage setup. The MTX75 can hold more power though.
 

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Are there any decent, true, limited slips for the g5m? I figure after 25 years, she deserves a limited slip and a manual. Did the sohc ever come with an mtx?

I can borrow trucks or cars from work now anyway, suddenly I'm in a rush everywhere I go again. It's tough driving slow in the escort when I have been driving clean newer cars around all day. So this time around, I want the escort to be rebuilt a little oomphier and stereoier. Something kind of impressive for the other mechanics and customers I will encounter.

I'm strongly considering having the escort out of commission for a couple months. I just got a rusty 3cyl metro on a personal trade, which I think may step in for the escort during the restoration/paint time. I'm hoping to save enough money for custom upholstery, with some swapped probe or grand marquis seats.

The "perks" of my new job, at used car dealer, with the typical network of outside contractors etc, my dollar will go much further for parts, tires, paint jobs, upholstery etc. My escort is velour, carpet and steering wheel are getting ratty, and the body has hail damage and is just starting to get rusty on the undercarriage :( I think it's time to fork out some dough in bulk. Or give up on the escort and find a straight rust free desirable car at an auction etc.

I'd rather dump 6k into my escort over the winter than buy a 2008 civic or some typical garbage like that.
A wrecked exotic or a straight yet blown engine'd luxury/sports car may be able to pull the escort away from me. But I don't know how I'd sleep at night.
 

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Mfactory makes a helical LSD for the Escort transmission and the OE Mazdaspeed Protege LSD also fits.

If I was going to dump $6K into an Escort the body would have to be 100% rust free underneath and it would have to have either a turboed Zetec or BP under the hood by the time I was done. Otherwise, I would take my Mazda 3 over an Escort almost any day.
 

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It's truly near rust free, Its been in the rust belt for three years, and all of the rock chips started rusting this year. There's no perforation or penetration, but there's a whole landscape of minor rust now. Time to shit or get off the pot.

Don't get too excited, I don't even have 6k yet. Part of me says zetec, part says hybrid 2l cvh with e85 and a few extra rpms. Both ideas call for Eaton m62's. I honestly like my escort being automatic. My focus seemed to be born to cause a ruckus, the escort.... More for smoking in the slow lane.
 

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Greetings. I have gone through all 14 pages of this "sticky". I saw the opening post stating:

"Because of this fact, NO parts from the first gen are interchangeable with parts from the second and third generations."
Someone posted a question that is related to my issue and that is that I own a 1990 LX and there is a local junkyard that has a few 2nd and 3rd gen Escorts and Tracers in stock. It has been over a year since I have seen a 1st Gen, in that junkyard. I might even get access to a family member's 97 Mercury Tracer, which I have been doing the maintenance on. Yes, this question I know might be a waste, but if I need to walk away from my 1990 LX, and I have people who could give me a clean answer...I have to ask it and pray for the best. While the individual parts are not interchangeable, can the entire engine of a 2nd or 3rd Gen be placed into the 1st Gen as bolt-in?

I know that money can swap anything into anything, but my budget is a little over $1000. I was told that if i can find a shop to rebuild the 1.9 in my 1st Gen, the cost to rebuild would eclipse this cost. Does anyone know the estimated cost to rebuild a 1st Gen CVH? I have memories with this car, so this is me hoping that I can get my car back on the road.

Thanks in advance
 

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Joppa, it all depends on how much wrench-turning ability you have, and space/time. If you do all the manual labor yourself, I'm sure you could keep it under 1k. If you have a shop do it, I can pretty much guarantee it'll blow that number out of the water.
 

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Ok I'm new here never been on a forum before either I read all 14 pages and most of my questions were answered I have the technical skills to pull off the swap I want to do a zetec swap in my 99 escort wagon se it has a dead cylinder but runs so I'm guessing it dropped a valve seat it barely runs misfires really bad anyway would a Mazda bp motor 1.8l dohc be a better swap ? And my junkyard time is very limited because I only have Sundays off and the junkyards here where i live they are closed Sundays so a list of exactly what I need would be best I'll have to make many short junkyard Trip's after work so I'm gonna make a list after I decide on a swap I'd like to have input back on the exacts and what motor would be better ?
 

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Ok I'm new here never been on a forum before either I read all 14 pages and most of my questions were answered I have the technical skills to pull off the swap I want to do a zetec swap in my 99 escort wagon se it has a dead cylinder but runs so I'm guessing it dropped a valve seat it barely runs misfires really bad anyway would a Mazda bp motor 1.8l dohc be a better swap ? And my junkyard time is very limited because I only have Sundays off and the junkyards here where i live they are closed Sundays so a list of exactly what I need would be best I'll have to make many short junkyard Trip's after work so I'm gonna make a list after I decide on a swap I'd like to have input back on the exacts and what motor would be better ?
The BP swap will be a little more difficult due to some differences such as fuel system, etc.

Also, there is some discussion on the legality of swapping an older engine into a newer model but I guess that depends on your state too. Here in Cali that's a big no no.

The zetec swap is best performed with a donor car by your side. The problem is not the big stuff like engine and transmission but all the little parts that go with it. Another member made the trek out to Cali just last week and did the exact same swap you want to do. He bought a low mileage crashed ZX2 and pulled the motor to swap into his rust free Cali wagon. I turned him onto my friend that helped me do my swap and he commented on how my friend knew what was needed in regards to every little clip or bracket. All that stuff matters and it's good to have it on hand, especially in your case where you can't just run over to the yard to grab that missing bracket or clip.

John
 

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You are going to need just about everything from the zetec powered zx2 to put it into your wagon.,... coolant bottles, wiring, sensors, hoses, computer. etc. A very good mechanic and I just did this swap a few weeks ago. We just parked the wrecked zx2 with a good drivetrain right next to the wagon, pulled the wagon engine/trans, the complete wiring harness, computer, front crossmembers and other subframe parts and nearly everything else and then swapped over the zx2 misc components and finally the engine and trans. While you're in there, install poly bushings for the swaybar front mounts, steering rack and control arms and replace all the ball joints and tie rod ends. You probably want to go over the CV axles too so they are ready for lots more miles. Good Moog stiff plastic sway bar bushings, ball joints and tire rod can be had for under$100.o0 from Rock auto. Add some poly bushings from Energy Suspension or Whileline ( I used Whiteline) for the controls arms for a few bucks more. I used KYB GR-2 struts ( the gas adjusts are no longer available) and progressieve springs to wrap up the suspension and added a 2nd Gen GT swaybar t the rear with new Moog plastic bushings. The car rides very taunt, but not abusive and corners nearly flat. Sits about stock height or maybe a little higher ( I have to deal with snow in my parts)
 

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Adding to what novanutcase mentioned:
In my area, of N. VA, with an engine swap, you should discuss it first with whatever dept of the state govt has cognizance of such things. With us its the Dept of Environmental Quality, and generally; the result has to pass the emissions test for either the car, or the engine, whichever is newer. And even with cars over 25 years old and exempt from the emissions test itself, the original emissions stuff has to be present under the hood and looking all connected.

I have found the folks from the D.E.Q. to be competent and agreeable, but I was sitting face to face with them, not talking over the phone. So I had to go 100 miles to their offices in the state capitol, Richmond VA.

As to what happens if you want to sell the car, that might be another complication; depending on whether the new owner runs into snags when safety inspectors examine the stuff under the hood.
 
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