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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently made a gauge swap from a '91 ELX wagon into my '93 ELX... wanted the tach... long story short... now the fuel, temp and tach gauges dont work properly... my fuel gauge insists that the tank is empty... i even moved it and it goes back... the temp gauge reads lower than normal... adn the tach reads that my idle is at 3000 and never goes about 3500 thru all the gears... anyone have any clues... im stumped...
 

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I also have a similar problem with my 91 LTS, my tach seems like the cable is...Loose I guess? Because if the car is off and I slap the dash up by the curved part on the right the tach jumps, and if I slap it moderately hard it goes all the way up past the point of no return and falls on the other side of the little spike thing and the only way to get it back to normal is to push a gear up to the redline or real close and I'm sure that's not a good strain on the tach cable. Even if the car is on this problem occurs except it's controlled and hardly moves but still moves when it's not supposed to! Is my tach cable loose/broken or is this just normal?

Only difference between me and the above guy is that my gauges are stock although they could've been tampered with and had alternative gauges on from the previous owner. Reason being is that there are speaker wires running all over the car that lead to no speakers and when I first got the car the Valve Cover bolts were hardly on which leads me to think that a Ricer/Tuner/Teenager owned the car previously. Maybe they had different gauges in and jacked around with the tach by accident? Who knows?
 

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If you did a swap then the wires are all in the wrong places. This happened to mine when the place that sold it to me swapped the guages because the fuel guage wasn't working(it was the sender). If your car is a 91-early 93, and the guage binnacle is from a late 93-96, or vice versa, then most of the wires in the 3 connectors need to be relocated. I took 3 days and rang out every one of those wires until I knew what each one does, and put them in their proper positions in the connectors, visually tracing the traces on the flexible gircuit board to know what light or guage each trace goes to. The GT has a Low fuel light, and you can get that working in your LX too if you want. You just have to run a jumper from (I forget) some point on the guage to the light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I got another set and they work... except for the fuel gauge... the temp and tach out of the first set i put in were messed up... but i still cannot find where the wiring is screwed to the fuel gauge... :(
 

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Firs test the sender. Go under the back seat and test the wires coming out of the sender. I think there's the 12-14V going into tthe tank and the other will show a varying voltage reflecting the float level. I think so anyway. So if there's no voltage there the sender is bad. But it is a little strange for the sender to die at exactly the time you change the guages. Weirder things have happened though.
 
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