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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, according to Donnie my post was eliminated due to a corruption of our database so here we go again... I am still looking to find out what could be stopping the power from getting to my fuel pump. I replaced the pump, and it still didn't work, so I used the testing method in the Haynes manual and discovered that it is not getting any power, anybosy have any hints? I have checked all the fuses and they seem fine, none are burnt out, I was told by several mechanics (One at a Ford dealership) to check the fuel pump relay, but therein lies my problem, nobody seems to know where the relay is located for the 1.8L engines... I appreciate your time in helping me, I need to get my car running, it has been nearly 3 weeks now without it going anywhere...
 

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did you check your fuel cut off switch?Also check the passenger side kick panel I know they are some relays there.Go to autozone or advance or any parts stores to see if they carry a fuse kit that has a fuse tester in it.I had a similar problem once and all the fuses looked good but I had one blown and that solved my problem having that fuse tester.Another thing check your main fuse in your fuse box under the hood to see if that is blown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fuel Cut-off is not tripped that was checked firt thing... and I will look into testing my fuses, think a multi-meter would work? I have one of those sitting in my dorm, it's my roommies but I think he'd loan it to me to test the fuses if it would work... And I have dismembered the entire interior front of the car looking for the relay, I found the fuse box down by my feet (Driver's side) but there aren't any visible on the passenger's side...

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
really? I was hoping it wasn't the ignittion switch... I may have to have it towed to a mechanic's after all... I don't think I'd be able to do the ignition switch in a parking lot, espescially without a jack to lift up the car... Well, I think I'll have to take it to a mechanic to figure out what is even wrong with it. Thanks for the help Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh is it really that easy? I've never had an ignition switch go bad in any of the family cars since I was like 10 so I never got to see one replaced... Now, How would I go about finding out if that is actually my problem?
 

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You need to bypass it somehow and see if the pump will turn on. Pretty much hot-wire the car. My chilton's manual got ruined by rain so I can't look it up right now, sorry.
 

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Just took a quick look at Haynes manual in the schematics section. The only relay on a GT that will not cause the fuel pump to work (only relay in the circuit) is the Vane Airflow Meter Relay. Hayne's doesn't say where it is, but I would guess it's in the engine bay somewhere near the VAF. Should be a 5 pole relay. Hope this helps :wink:

Matt 8)
 

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Just a quick note about testing fuses with a multimeter.

You can definitely do it, probably easier than with a fuse tester. Just set the selector on the meter to do a continuity check. It is usually the thing that looks like a little speaker. When the circuit is completed, it should make a beeping noise. So, when you test fuses when you put the meter leads on either blade of the fuse, it should beep at you. If it doesnt make noise, then there isnt a circuit, and the fuse is bad.

Hope this helps, and you get your problem worked out. Good luck!

~Bug
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, so I have been getting some help from the folks over at ERDT on this one and it has been mentioned that the Circuit closing relay might also be my problem along with that ever possible ignition switch... My question is now this: How can I check the ignition switch? Meaning where can I go to bypass it and see if taht is what is causeing the peoblem, would that bedone through the diagnostic box? if not then how else might I be able to check the causes of this problem. I am about to personally break-down and just have it towed to a Ford Dealership (Since they are the only place within 7 miles and AAA only pays for 7 miles of tow.) for it to be fixed. Please help me avoid that at all costs, and if not, then thanks for all the help, at least I can offer up some starting points to the dealer, God knows that they don't know anything about my car anymore. (I say that because I have talked to eh service dept. at a local dealer and they had no more ideas than I started with.)
 

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Do you have a hayne's or chiltons manual or electrical schematics for the car? If not get some and trouble shoot the circuit that way. There's only so many places where it can go wrong.

Matt 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have a Hayne's Manual but with Finals going on I don't have the time to sit out with my car and test circuits, I'm busy frying the ones in my head. I guess I'll just have to break and take it to a mechanic. I just don't have teh time anymore, and I need the car running before finals are over so I can drive it back home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Alright I have hopefully solved this problem... I am giving up due to a lack of time because of finals and having the car towed... This is the first time I have taken the car in for work since I started going on my DIY stint, but hopefully it will be the last time in the shop for a long time... But thanks to Matt, and everyone else who chimed in and tried to help me out, I just don't have the time to scout for the problem anymore.
 

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dayum. funny you have the same problem...my car has the same problem and has been sittin in my dorm parking lot for 2 weeks. i tried what i could. changed fuel pump, fuel filter and i'm waiting for a fuel pump relay cuz it tested bad. i got frustrated and took it to the mechanic but hes' dumb and can't figure out shit and my car been there a week now. so i'm even more frustrated so i think i'll just tow the car to the ford dealership. the fuses are good and well theres no pulse in the injectors and they are not firing. my friend swears it's just a blown fuse though but i've checked them and so has the mechanic. so seeing as we've tested these and alot more possible causes i'll try a new ecu and see if that does it. if it doesn't then i'll have to go to the dealership which i don't wanna do cuz u know how much they charge!!!! :?
Des.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yeah I know exactly how much the dealership charges, cause that is where I had to have it towed...

And they found the problem to be this... Timing is off horribly, odd since the car must have changed it's timing while I was driving, but they tested the fuel pump, as I did, and found that it works, which it should since I replaced it...

And since the 1.8's don't seem to have a clearly defined "relay" for the fuel sys tem I told them what my symptoms were and they rana complete diagnostic... so my Grand total for the following repairs was...

New Timing belt
New sparkplugs, they are over 3 years old now, I was gonna change them but labor was "free" from the dealer
New fuel Filter
Fuel system service
and of course labor for the timing belt (the big pain)

Grand total, (including diagnostic): $785 The timing belt and required labor for tha talone was over 570 anyway so the rest of it is only costing about 130... but it still blows...

I really don't have the cash for that kind of crap, so I am looking into getting a second car for the "daily driver" I won't be buying it for at least a year unfortunately, but with my hopes of becoming an EMT with good hours per week grows closer the money seems to be dropping in terms of rarity... Just hope I get the EMT job.

Edit: although it is pricey I am willing to bet it is not much more than 100 bucks more than my mechanic at home would charge, but to have it towed to my house (30+ miiles) would have made it more expensive than the free tow thanks to AAA plus the charge for the work. But I really didn't have the time to do this before I move out of my dorm next week!
 
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