Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by axa, Jun 27, 2017.
Personally I dont think anyone is going around making 'fake' filler neck hoses. Making them to poor production standards is a possibility.
I have a relative who worked in a Dayco manufacturing facility in Sparta NC, until the head company closed the plant and moved production to a plant in Mexico. That was 4 or 5 years ago.
Another relative, a Mexican, works in a Mahle plant in Saltillo in Mexico. There are more robots there than human workers (and the bots all say Toyota on the sides). Working non-stop 24-7, the plant makes many hundreds of pistons daily, along with piston rings. None of the products are touched by human hands, from first casting/machining through being boxed for shipping. The relative's job involves inspecting/analyzing readouts from the computers that control the robots. He is fluent in English, but ALL of the readouts are in Spanish and Japanese; English isnt even one of the language choices.
Every 90 days the plant stops producing, and a squad of about 20 gray haired Japanese techs from Toyota come in and spend two days going over the robots. He said some of them speak english (his fluency helped him get the job) and a few of them speak Spanish with heavy accents.
Interesting insight on modern car parts factories. With the lack of large numbers of workers, I wonder why it is attractive to have the factory in Mexico.
Perhaps less regulatory and compliance costs?
Lax labor and emissions laws and or enforcement. No UAW. No real tariff barriers. Indifferent consumers.
If you are judging by the effort or costs in physical producing an item, there is less room to benefit. And I dont think any hoses are made by people anymore, so you cant compete on that. but labor is not where all the cost are saved.
Years ago I read a report focused at the large profit to be made from substituting synthetic materials that can resistance chemical abrasion (think gas) for mixtures that cant or cant do it well. Which is eerily familiar here. Manual labor is already reduced, there fore if the cost of your materials are significantly reduced now you have intensive again.
A quick google search will confirm such things:
that article estimates a third of parts bought online are fake.
The same is true in the semiconductor industry where im familiar. My last employer would see products reaching 50% counterfeit for popular products. And this was not even things purchased by consumers but in a tight supply chain for production.
We used similar labor in factories, we knew well in the long run what made it profitable was the the dirt cheap materials used, the difference between pure silicon and almost pure silicon was like 10 fold.
everything is made in south china by 8year old kids now. all built to a price point. there are no 'quality' parts anymore
Remember, YOU are the only quality control that most items receive.
Nothing is built to last anymore. Most people hold onto a car 5 years then get rid of them. The reality is that most of my cars should have been replaced at least 5 times by now. I also have inherited a 67 bug and a 56 Chevy so those should have been recycled into something else who knows how many times. I think even aftermarket parts are of the mindset that you will get rid of the car instead of holding onto it long enough that the new part will fail again even if it has a short service life. New owner would be oblivious that the part only last two years and would go out and buy the same junk. I think the best bet is to buy a section of bulk hose because commercial industries do not tolerate these shenanigans. Look for places that make custom hydraulic hoses for construction and farm equipment, lines for trucks, or as someone else suggested hose off the roll at Napa or a real parts store.
P.S. I just bought an injector cleaner setup and the fuel lines on it are only rated for air usage. Any guesses on how long those will last?
The irony is, of course, that there is more material choice all the time so parts could be made of really good material, for a small increase in price.
Could you show some pictures of your injector cleaner?
I will make a review of it on Amazon. Will take pics too it's on one of my cars in storage. It's like the BG kit stuff but made cheaply. The OTC is like $280 with the adapter I need and this one was only $100. But OTC uses a quick disconnect to the adapters that swivel and this one screws adapter to adapters. One bump and things come loose and leak. I am using it to provide fuel pressure to move my car around with a bad fuel pump but don't trust it much.
Interesting. I'd check the MSDS of the "Berryman" cleaning solution and see about buying generic chemical solvents.
Hi Everyone ! I am having an exceptional problem getting my filler neck hose connected to the assembly going from filler hose to the metal assembly on the fill line. I have a 94 Escort Wagon 1.9 L. I had a hard time connecting the rubber hose to the gas tank. Then started with connecting rubber hose to metal assembly. The replacement hose was from Auto Zone. No one in town except them could get me one. The rubber hose seems to be to small for the OD. The ID of the hose is 1.9 inches. The metal assembly is 2.0 inches. I had the heat the rubber hose to get it pliable enough to slip it on the gas tank. I have tried for 5 hours to get it to go on with no luck. Maybe I am not as strong as I thought I was at age 69 ! My original hose lasted 25 years now. Had to break the wire hose clamps off and cut the rubber hose off. The hose was so stiff it would not give at all. Any suggestions would be "greatly" appreciated.
It's very hard.
I just bought and installed my 3rd replacement, its ridiculous how far these replacements wear out.
There may be other ways but the only way I know is using a spray silicone dousing both mating surfaces and squeezing one side on at a time.
Plan ahead a bit to get the angle to fall in right.
The first side is ok but this last time I needed to link the house and gold it to get the second side on. Oh ya and I heated it for a few minutes with a hot air gun. Perhaps soaking it in hot water or something night have been more effective I really don't know. But I mention the silicon because I believe the thinner just evaporates and the rest gets absorbed by the tube... I think it's safe.
While the hose is off of the care, try to find something to expand the inside of the hose. (Example), if this was a small hose I'd stick a needlenose pliers in and expand the hose to stretch it. Find something the equivalent (exhaust elbow, etc,) and force it on. Leave it on for a little while while the hose stretches. Put some oil/silicone inside the end to make it slide.
I slather on the grease. Any that gets squeezed into the fuel tank will cause no harm, it will eventually dissolve into the fuel and be consumed with no ill effects.
Holding the end of the hose in hot water for half a minute or so will make it pliable. Then it can be quickly wiped off with a clean rag, grease applied to both mating surfaces and then it should go on much easier.
Mine was about 1-7/8", or 1.875" inside diameter:
I have done it a total of three times, on 3 different (though identical) 2nd gen Escorts. I wish it got easier after the first, but it still takes a lot of pushing and twisting, with dirt falling into my face. I agree the use of silicone oil or axle grease probably helps, as does soaking it in boiling hot water for a couple of minutes, and even pre-stretching the opening that has to fit over the plastic tank entry. I found the tapered plastic lid to a food product (whose name I cant recall) fit just right to do a good job of stretching the 1-7/8" hose end; but I didnt figure out a way to combine that with soaking the hose in hot water. I didnt try using an electric heat gun to blow on the hose when getting the second end on, due to the fuel vapors being present.
Maybe next time I will hit on the ideal method; like wearing heavy cotton gloves to hold a hose that spent an hour baking in the sun on a hot south Texas day.
And after I finish I will dry it off, and smear the outside of the hose with permatex RTV ultra black - to keep air/fumes away from it.
I would avoid trying to do this in cold weather.
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