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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know bareend.com is selling 1" rear sway bars for the 91-96 Escorts but does anyone know of any front sway bars that will fit on the 2G Escorts??? I was looking under my car and noticed it does have one, so I figured, why not get a new one as well?

Would there be any performance gain from a 1" front bar or should it be left the stock size? (i'm guessing 3/4" since it appeared the same size as my stock rear bar)

I'm already redoing the struts/springs, cv joints, tie rods, rear sway bar and throwing on a front strut tower brace, so I figured why not replace the front sway bar as well?

Matt or Justin: if you guys are going to start selling one on bareend.com count me in for one, if not could you direct me to a place that is/will be in the future when I go for it?
 

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Why do you want a front bar? Tightening the front end will increase understeer.... Just put a good set of struts under there and tie your strut towers. That'll 'quicken' up the front end and then you can focus on dialing in the rear to tune it towards more neutral handling, or oversteer if you want extreme.
 

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Zeemax said:
Why do you want a front bar? Tightening the front end will increase understeer
I would have to agree. Get aggressive with the rear end and get rid of the understeer that plagues FWD cars. A good set of struts, a brace, and some good rubber will do wonders. You may consider dropping it an inch in the front if you really want the handling (granted, the ride will suck).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Remember guys, this is car will be a street legal track car which I'm building for (hopefully) a 13.5 in the 1/4 mile. I don't want to increase oversteer for that reason... If anything I want to decrease it, I'm not concerned about steering as this won't be an autoXing car, although *possibly* in the near future (after it's built for the track) I might start autoXing, but for now...I'm going for straight line performance. :p

So the smaller the front bar the more oversteer? The larger the rear bar...the more stable around corners? :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
birddog said:
Zeemax said:
Why do you want a front bar? Tightening the front end will increase understeer
I would have to agree. Get aggressive with the rear end and get rid of the understeer that plagues FWD cars. A good set of struts, a brace, and some good rubber will do wonders. You may consider dropping it an inch in the front if you really want the handling (granted, the ride will suck).
Right now I've got a set of four KYB GR-2 Gas charged shocks with Suspension Techniques 1.5" lowering springs and a Ractive Type 8 strut tower brace sitting in my room waiting for new tie rods and CV joints. I might even get the upper strut tower brace for the rear (from bareend.com) and tear out all that plastic crap from my interior.

But for sure I'll soon be getting: 16" Mille Miglia HT3 rims w/ Kumho Ecsta 712s @ 195/60H16 rubber. Maybe 205/60H16s for the front.
When it comes time to go to the track I'll have a set of 16" slicks but I'll run normal street tires in Real world driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
95EsortSittinLo said:
:pottytrain3: :thebirdman: :lol:
:? And you dared to compare him to me Beav? I've never posted complete & utter crap like this for no apparent reason whatsoever.

All I want is an answer, if you don't know it why do you bother posting 95? This is just a waste of time, but thanks to your pure immaturity, I am now watching myself so I don't waste other peoples time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had already bumped it myself, hence why it's in the top 25 again... & it's a long way down to the bottom of the list, it doesn't need to be @ the top for the next 3 days. but thanks I just wasted another post explaining this. Now unless you have a viable answer for me, don't post again. Thanks.
 

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James92Scort said:
w/ Kumho Ecsta 712s @ 195/60H16 rubber. Maybe 205/60H16s for the front.
When it comes time to go to the track I'll have a set of 16" slicks but I'll run normal street tires in Real world driving.
205/50/16

if not lower. my GRANDMA has a 60 series tire on her tempo.

and how much does the stock swaybar weigh? i'mma take that shit off.
 

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205 - the width in mm from sidewall to sidewall. the footprint of tread is usually a little skinnier than this.

50 - this is the trickier one. this means 50%. the tire is 50% as tall as it is wide, so your tire would be 102.5mm tall, from bead to tread.
A 60 would means it's 60% as tall from bead to tread, meaning you would have a taller sidewall, which doesn't help handling, but helps ride and gas mileage.
So, a 205/50 will have a smaller sidewall than a 245/50, even though they are both 50's.
This is why the 20" tires on the bling bling cars are like 295/30 - real wide tire, real TINY sidewall.
with a 50 series tire, you will be revving higher on the highway, and throw your speedo off a few mph, but you will fly the turns with the quickness of a crazy clown in the bozo circus.
a 45 or 40 series tire would have an even smaller sidewall, for even better handling and an even worse ride.

In my opinion, a 50 series tire also looks much better than the 60 the car comes with standard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
TitoElSpicco said:
with a 50 series tire, you will be revving higher on the highway, and throw your speedo off a few mph, but you will fly the turns with the quickness of a crazy clown in the bozo circus.
Ok Thanks for that help, but if you read earlier posts you'll notice I want straight line performance first. I'm making this a street legal drag car. I don't need it to corner for autoXing, I need it to go straight and fast down the 1/4 mile stretch. What would be the best size tire for something like that?
 

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Ok Thanks for that help, but if you read earlier posts you'll notice I want straight line performance first. I'm making this a street legal drag car. I don't need it to corner for autoXing, I need it to go straight and fast down the 1/4 mile stretch. What would be the best size tire for something like that?
Then you want the shorter total gearing that a lower sidewall would provide. Lower sidewall ratio = higher gearing = faster acceleration.

[Edit: I've been drinking tonight.. please excuse my previous typo]
 

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If your building the car for the straight track, why would you go through the expense to add more unneeded weight to the car that would be useless going in a straight line? Id steer clear of the front bar and spend the money on making the car faster rather than add more weight, That is, if drag racing is your focus.
 

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Hey James I just remembered...Eibach makes a drag kit for our cars - basically really stiff rear springs to limit the amount of weight transfer to the back, keeping you from lighting up the tires too quickly. It's not recommended for the street, but you know your car and your roads so you'd have to decide. But if it's straight line you want, the drag kit might make the difference.
 
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