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Ok this problem has been bugging me for a while... here is a scenario:
I put the car in drive. I cruise up to about 25. All is fine. I hit 30 i notice a very very very slight vibration. I hit 45, it goes away, i accelerate to 50, a little vibration. I hit 55-60 and it's smooth sailing. 60-72 = shakesville. Anythnig over that, smooth ride. The shaking is so bad at 60-72 mph that my cd player skips. Normally i would just say it's a tie rod problem or bearing but the wheels dont shake side to side or top and bottom when jacked up. When i got new tires (i thought it was a damaged tire) the problem went away for about 100 miles and then came back again. It seems like the shaking is originating on the passenger side but it could just seem like that because i'm on the driver side and i can see the vibration more on the glove box. Anyone experiences these problems before? Thanks in advance.
 

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I had a similar condition a few car s ago. I drove the car with the recurring shakes fro about a year. I also had the problem of what I that was a sticking caliper. When I was at a stop, the car stuck at the stop for moment. It also pulled alittle from time to time when I hit the brakes. I replaced the calipers on the front with no improvement.

Now when the shaking was servere, it was right after brake application. I ended replacing the right front brake hose. The issue was gone and never returned.
 

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It's probably a front suspension problem that is making the tires wear unevenly. Get it up in the air and check lower ball joints and tie rods. Check all the rubber bushings around the sway/radius bar and control arms mounts. And look at the bar to make sure it looks symmetrical (not wierdly bent on one side).
 

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I should take some advice from this thread.. My 90 is starting to do the same. The alignment is causing the drivers side tire to wear on the outside, maybe thats causing it
 

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That can be caused by either alignment, excessive camber (not adjustable but could be off if your car was in an accident) or low tire pressure. If it's alignment, you're towed too far in. A semi easy way to check is to measure the distance between the tires, with the steering wheel straight. You won't be able to get to the middle of the tire height, so you'l have to measure up equally on both sides of the car from the ground. And, of course, a little math is involved by using the "hinge theorem" from geometry. You have to know the diameter of your tire, and how high up you measured. Then measure the distance between the rear edges of the tires and the front with a string or tape measure.

Since the measurement you took isn't the precise measurement of how far apart or close the tire edges are (you're measuring the tow) you'll have to use math to find out the real measurement. You'd have to subtract how far away from the center of the tire you measured with the diameter of the tire, and add that difference to your measurements.

Typically the tires should be about 1 or 2 32nds of an inch towed out (more space at the front). The reason for this is as power is applied, the suspension shifts some, and the tires come forward to 0 32nds of tow.

The rear is similar, but I can't remember the typical tow for those. Besides, that isn't commonly out, unless you've had some idiot who thought it needed to be adjusted throw the whole thing out.

If you get your car adjusted, insist on '81-'90 alignment specs. If a '91 or later template is used, your car will NOT be aligned. I found out the last place I went to did this (along with smoking my clutch) and my car needs another 4 wheel alignment to remedy the problems they created. If you find the center measurement for the chassis, you can do your own alignment, but it takes time. Just some thoughts.
 
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