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Discussion Starter #1
Did a bunch the last 7 weeks or so.
Pulled the dash and interior to:
1) Swap in the zetec heater core with upswing hose connections so my heater hoses won't be rubbing against the intake manifold.
2) Put in my new tach cluster I found recently with all LED lighting, except the idiot lights.
3) Had the headliner relined.
4) Installed sound deadener on the complete floor and ceiling with sound absorber and insulation including the rear wheel wells and cargo area.
5) Ran wiring and installed a couple of LED lights to light up the back seat and cargo area. I found 1/4 inch connectors fit inside the wiring terminals on the dome light perfectly, making this an easy upgrade

I used Noico sound deadener mat on the floor pan for the seat area, the rear wheel wells and roof. I used Frost king duct insulation in the cargo area and around the edges of windows. The seat areas also got Noico sound insulation mat. The only downside is that the Noico deadener is heavy. I probably added about 80 lbs to the vehicle with all the sound materials.

I covered the roof bracing to help eliminate all the heat transfer that can occur here with Frost king too. I filled in between the braces with 1/2 inch thick fiberglass duct insulation for more insulation and sound absorption.

This all helped eliminate squeaks and rattle and killed the road noise from the cargo area. It also helped cut down the buzzing noise you get at certain RPMs ( most annoying at about 70 to 75MPH).
The noise from the rear wheel wells with just the deadener and no interior was about the same as with the interior previously. It is much more relaxing to drive the car now that the noise levels are reduced.

I haven't used the sound deadener in the doors yet. You can really hear the noise coming through the doors now that the rest of the car is pretty quiet. The door panels are all already backed with 1/2 duct insulation, but that didn't seem to have much effect. I hope to line them next year along with the hood. Ford skimped and didn't line the hood on the 3rd gens like the 2nd and I think that is probably why the engine is so much noisier on the 3rd gens.
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After I got that back together, flushed the power steering system and tried to fix a leak... new hose and new gaskets... but unsuccessful.

Finally upgraded my air intake. I've had the Iceman intake for over a year and needed to get the right silicone connectors and modify the air filter housing to get rid of the resonator and fit up a larger intake opening. I also insulated most of the intake to cut down on heat soak when crawling in city traffic. I ended up keeping the separate intake air temp sensor and hunted down the proper rubber grommet to mount it in the new tube. If any body needs one of these grommets, I have 24 extra ones ( min order of 25) and the 11/16 bit to drill the proper size hole. The sensor fit like factory
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot, also part of removing the headliner...I redeleted the roof rack and installed the plain roof rails I found last year while out at a yard.
 

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Someones been a busy boy! LOL!

Nice! I need to get to my headliner and add some deadner/heat protection up there. I'm torn as far as the smooth vs factory rack. On the one hand, I like the look of the smooth rails but I also like how the roof rack looks and it has come in handy at times. What to do, what to do.......

John
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a full size 2017 Chevy van to haul stuff, so Ifigured I could do without the rack. Beside the van gets better mileage on the highway than the escort.... ahh the magic of little 2.8 l turbo diesels! Oh, since I found a gage cluster with a tach locally, go ahead and sell the one I bought from you.
 
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