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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some time back i noticed loss in stopping power.
Having fairly recently done brake maintenance, new front and rear hardware and pads, new clutch, and replaced all lines, soft and hard (rust belt) i figured it had to be trapped air... bled, the problem persisted but wasn't too bad so I just continued to lived with it...

Then came a yearly inspection the shop wouldn't pass me, so i took it back changed the master cylinder, changed the slave cylinder, now everything but the booster was new... bled over a quart of fluid through the entire system, same problem...

Took it back in for inspection, knew id done my best and welcomed them to fix the problem, which also ensured the car would pass... Well i got it back with a bill for bleeding, they 'claimed' they got a bit of air out... i knew that wasnt true but at this point i was just paying a bribe to pass inspection...
So the problem persisted and i kept driving...

Fast forward a year or 2, recently ive been using the car less due to the kung flu, I noticed the back wheels locking up... so bad that they would drag for a bit before breaking free.... figured id now fix perhaps a parking break adjustment, well i checked finding the mechanism stuck...
I pulled the drum removed the the parking break mechanism and opposed to a nice dry dusty drum I found this mess:
upload_2020-8-1_13-7-48.png


There was also a small hole in the wheel cylinder boot from the parking break jamming up against it...

As i said the drums were recently done so i didnt figure there was a problem... but a slow leak into the drum was causing the soft braking as well as building up with the dust and corroding the hardware...

Got new wheel cylinder kit off rockauto for 1.40$ or so, the seals were noticeably worn down, that was a rough lesson in wasted time and money
 

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That nut who spends way to much on a escort.
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man i remember the days of rebuilding and re sealing cylinders... now they are so cheap, they basically give them away.
Time change man, times change. My EXP needed new cylinders a ways back and it was about 3$ for the cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sure cylinders are still cheap but unless your restoring something that hasnt been driven in years, youre only going to need a new boot or seal... which is stupid quick and easy...

otherwise changing the cylinder you need to crack loose the fitting and deal with breaking the hard line, leaks, and all that... again if your restoring something that hasnt driven in years than sure youre doing all that work anyway, therefore i think the rebuild kit a a buck are a nice option.
 

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Hi. Saw in your post that you replaced your master cylinder. My pedal is soft and even bleeding the system, I can't seem to get it to tighten up at all. I purchased a new master cylinder about 5 years back with the intent to replace it but never did. Now that I've put new parking cables in along with new rear cylinders, I'd like to move forward with my long overdue intentions.
Ok, back to my question. The new master that I have, does NOT have these extended portions on the bottom of the cylinder. (see picture w/green highlight) My current one does. Without removing the old master just yet and rendering the car stuck in my "wife's" garage, are these extensions removable to place on the new master? They look like they are based on the shape but I just cant tell. I've seen castings like that which were not movable.
My thanks for your reading patience and any time in responding. (I only noticed the new one didn't have them when I went to bench bleed it and I had a blowout out the bottom.) Some choice words were uttered.
InkedMaster_LI.jpg

Sincerely,
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Those are proportioning valves and they unscrew.


Are you sure your brake shoes are adjusted properly? I have had to mainly adjust them They can affect brake pedal feel
 

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Discussion Starter #7
also fwiw, my post was referring to the brake wheel cyliders, no mention of the master cylinder...
 

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Thanks Gamer92! One additional question about the new master. It has this nipple (pic) that's sealed off on my in-car one. I now realize that I got one for use with a manual trans and not automatic, which I have. Can I just seal it off? Or, are the internals different?

AXA - Guess I read your post too quick and got the feeling you had done just about everything to fix the soft pedal. Not paying attention.

Peace!
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InkedMaster1_LI.jpg
 

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AXA - Read it again. "Then came a yearly inspection the shop wouldn't pass me, so i took it back changed the master cylinder, changed the slave cylinder, now everything but the booster was new..." It was changed and had it in my mind you had done it. I've done one before way back in 1980 but first one on this car. Pardon the post hijack. I'll stop now.
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Thanks Gamer92! One additional question about the new master. It has this nipple (pic) that's sealed off on my in-car one. I now realize that I got one for use with a manual trans and not automatic, which I have. Can I just seal it off? Or, are the internals different?

AXA - Guess I read your post too quick and got the feeling you had done just about everything to fix the soft pedal. Not paying attention.

Peace!
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thats for clutch master cylinder. you can either cap it off and use a worm clamp for extra security, or just swap your old reservoir to this master cylinder
 

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Great suggestion. That way I'll eliminate a possible failure at that point later on.
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