FEOA Forums banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished a major wax/buff job on my 1994 EGT and noticed bubbles near the rear quarter panel - same place I see other Escorts which are suffering from rust. I am aware that rust trouble areas are:

- rear quarter panels/wheel wells
- leading edge on the front hood
- rear deck lid

When it starts (rust that is), how does one fight it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,296 Posts
Grind or sandblast to bare metal then repaint.

Unfortunatly, it's the ONLY way to truly rid your vehicle of rust and restore it to like new condition. Other than that you're buying small amounts of time.

Matt 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,596 Posts
you could also move somewhere in the deep south. somewhere where they dont have to worry about snow and salt on the roads.

just keep on top of cleaning the wheel wells and crevases in and on the car. im starting to get some bubbles as well. fun fun fun... :cry:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
fixitmattman said:
Grind or sandblast to bare metal then repaint.

Unfortunatly, it's the ONLY way to truly rid your vehicle of rust and restore it to like new condition.
Ha. That would be nice if it were that easy.

THE ONLY WAY to get completely rid of rust is to COMPLETELY CUT OUT the rusting section and re-weld in a new section. You then have to use body filler to bring it up to spec, and then you have to repaint. You can sand all you want, but you never get rid of all of it. It can't be reasoned with. It can't be bargained with. It will stop at nothing. There is no alternative other than to completely cut out the rusted section and weld in a new piece.

My friend with a plymouth scamp did this, and it took a while, but it's the only way...

If you want a temporary fix, sand, bondo, prime, paint. It'll be back within a year or two. And it's hungry. For blood. YOUR blood.

</rant>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
802 Posts
siragan said:
It'll be back within a year or two. And it's hungry. For blood. YOUR blood.
You have no idea how many zombie movies ive seen latley, from Dawn of the dead, to Resident evil, to Pirates of the carribean (sorta, they dont die!).. i think im sick of them!

ps. go watch dawn of the dead.. VERY good if you like:
  • zombies
    guns
    explosions
    mild nudity
    zombies
    guns
    jay leno and burt reynolds getting their heads blown apart
    a chick getting disemboweled with a chainsaw :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,596 Posts
siragan said:
....It can't be reasoned with. It can't be bargained with. It will stop at nothing....
sounds like a little terminator quoting also..
...it doesn't feel pitty, or remorse, or fear. and i will not stop EVER! until you are dead.
-can you stop it?
i dunno. with these weapons, i dunno....

hey nuke, there's a DOTD post in the off-topic forums...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,296 Posts
siragan said:
fixitmattman said:
Grind or sandblast to bare metal then repaint.

Unfortunatly, it's the ONLY way to truly rid your vehicle of rust and restore it to like new condition.
Ha. That would be nice if it were that easy.

THE ONLY WAY to get completely rid of rust is to COMPLETELY CUT OUT the rusting section and re-weld in a new section. You then have to use body filler to bring it up to spec, and then you have to repaint. You can sand all you want, but you never get rid of all of it. It can't be reasoned with. It can't be bargained with. It will stop at nothing. There is no alternative other than to completely cut out the rusted section and weld in a new piece.

My friend with a plymouth scamp did this, and it took a while, but it's the only way...

If you want a temporary fix, sand, bondo, prime, paint. It'll be back within a year or two. And it's hungry. For blood. YOUR blood.

</rant>
This is going to get deeper and deeper with each reply. I can see it coming now 8O

Remember, rust is only an oxidizing coating (an agressive one at that). Provided it hasn't been left and allowed to go throught the metal (which would obviously require replacement), after blasting you are left with a new clean steel surface which has a slightly to highly more agressive surface finish than new steel. A blasted profile with a surface finish within a certain range is easily concealed with a properly applied coat of paint. The trick is you have to blast EVERYTHING. If you only do one side of a panel, or even just certain areas, you might as well not have done it at all. Once finished, the result of the blasted and painted surface is as good as or better than new.

Trust me, it works, and it's used in industry way more than you think :wink:

Matt 8)
 

·
BYO Plastic cutlery
Joined
·
9,869 Posts
On the hood edge and rear lip, if you see rust it's too late, because it started on the other side and now the whole piece is all rust, so if you want to grind away until there's no more rust, then you'll get a big hole. It's easier to get a new hood. Spray alot of rust check in the new hood. Remember Iron isn't stable so it always wants to turn into iron oxide(rust) and putting a finish on it at the factory is just a way to seal the steel from the air, and to try to make the disposable product last longer than 1 day so you forget it was made of the most inappropriate material ever!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,709 Posts
DeathSlinger00 said:
siragan, why the hell do you have 3 sets of 5 stars?!
It's 3 sets of 6. And the reason should be obvious (because I'm so dang awesome) ;)

As for steel... even though it sucks because it rusts, it's great to work with from a good ol' get-your-hands-dirty shop perspective. You can weld it, braze it, mold it, paint it, etc. If your hood is starting to rust or is dented, you can cut it out, weld in a new piece, and you're good to go. This is much harder to do with aluminum.

And I never knew that sandblasting would really seriously get rid of rust. I've got a friend who is into hot rod restoration and he seemed to think that cutting the section out and re-welding it in was the way to go, but don't take just my word for it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,296 Posts
siragan said:
THE ONLY WAY to get completely rid of rust is to COMPLETELY CUT OUT the rusting section and re-weld in a new section.
siragan said:
And I never knew that sandblasting would really seriously get rid of rust. I've got a friend who is into hot rod restoration and he seemed to think that cutting the section out and re-welding it in was the way to go, but don't take just my word for it...
^^^^^I didn't see what I thought I saw :roll:

I work for a company that completely restores old arial lift equipment. Our factory is right beside and is a division of the company that builds them new. We use the same paint and paint process as they do, only we sandlast the old units which are COMPLETELY covered in rust. With exception to the surface profile the metal is like new. When painted they meet our new build quality standards, and in field tests the paint lasted the same as machines built with new steel directly from the steel supplier and that has been phosphatized prior to painting. We don't phosphatize the blasted units.

The big problem on a car would be blasting everything on the car. That would mean pulling off every seam you can to get behind every panel to blast. In the small area's like the front of the hood and the rear hatch, as MadBrad said you're f'ed because it rusts from the inside out so there's nothing worth while left to blast. I know from experience there's nothing left, I'm on hood 2 8O

Matt 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
siragan said:
You can weld it, braze it, mold it, paint it, etc.

And I never knew that sandblasting would really seriously get rid of rust. ...
Never braze, body filler and even fiberglass will react with it in only weeks.

Sandblasting will stop rust if you can get all of the rust out of the pits, however, on escorts the rust starts from the inside. It is impossible to get all of it. On the quarters, its usually worse on the drivers side under the gas filler. It is due to gasoline eating the sealer and allowing contaminants behind the panel. If your doors are rust free, put a little oil inside the door in the crease and spray some rust proof in. The oil will reduce the rust proof and get it in everywere... It really does work. The same method can be used on the hatch. The hood rusts from the inside out also, spray a little rust proof up in there too.

Our only option is to either replace the parts or cut out and weld in new. If your unfamiliar with welding and plan to do it yourself fiberglass will work with the proper instruction.

Troy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I had rust on the underside of pretty much the whole car before I took it to a shop last year.

It was repaired and painted.

Now there's rust coming through the new paint on the rear wheelwells. the underside of the main body and on the bottom right edge of the trunk lid( a specific spot that was fixed).

I do live in Canada and had lots of dirt and salt on the car over the winter

Should I take the car back to the shop and complain or is this just something that I should have expected and there's no recourse for.

what do you think?
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top