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My amp killed my battery and my starter is sticking. :-Y
F*&K
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see i told u it would James. but NOOOOOOOOOOOOO does anyone listen to me?? hehe just messin..umm get a switch to turn it off and on or bring it over and i´ll re-run it for ya.
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If your´e runnign too much power form your battery and don´t have a high performance alternatoryou might as well get ready to buy a new alternator too. Most of the timeif you have a SERIOUS sound system....and it sounds that way....get another battery just for it. Trust me...it will save you in the long run.
Sorry to hear abotu the stolen stereo. I know how much that sucks. :-o
Sorry to hear abotu the stolen stereo. I know how much that sucks. :-o
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The starter gear stuck in my flywheel and kept spinning it last night. That´s what I think did most of the damage to drain the battery. cause when I went out this morning the LED on the amp wasn´t even on. the Amp isn´t going to draw that much power to drain it that dead. I went to autozone, napa and advance auto and no one has a starter for the 1.8. So my car is fuckin screwed for the weekend until I can get a starter offline. f*&kin shit. sometimes i wonder why even bother. I could have a Camaro RS for 6600 bucks right down the street.
Not to add on to things, but in the future when you have an amp or more. It is generally a good idea to use a capacitor and let the amp or amps draw from that, the capacitor will also save your alternator and battery...Sorry to hear about the luck though!!
gmoney
gmoney
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I´m sure that the 1998-up Camaro will blow it´s fucking timing belt 2 weeks after I buy it, costing me a total of 2k repairs which took me all last spring to repay my dad for. oh and then the clutch won´t blow out, will it? Well...Maybe...
Oh but don´t forget the radiator hose that blew...well that could happen. and lets not forget the tires that suddenly went completely flat, which had good tread on them. oh and btw did you know I´m holding my wheel 30 degrees to the left to keep it straight? i´m sure a 98-up Camaro will be that badly aligned. fucking tie rods. Yeah and my rear springs are broken too. Not to mention the horrible stutter of the engine in the mornings, it´s real fun getting whiplash without being rearended.
And I´m sure the entire two back panels are rusted on the inside. Yeah. My car is a POS.
Now you´re telling me a 98-up Camaro will have ANY of these problems off the bat? It might have a leaky radiator hose or some used tires.
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I´m sure that the 1998-up Camaro will blow it´s fucking timing belt 2 weeks after I buy it, costing me a total of 2k repairs which took me all last spring to repay my dad for. oh and then the clutch won´t blow out, will it? Well...Maybe...
Oh but don´t forget the radiator hose that blew...well that could happen. and lets not forget the tires that suddenly went completely flat, which had good tread on them. oh and btw did you know I´m holding my wheel 30 degrees to the left to keep it straight? i´m sure a 98-up Camaro will be that badly aligned. fucking tie rods. Yeah and my rear springs are broken too. Not to mention the horrible stutter of the engine in the mornings, it´s real fun getting whiplash without being rearended.
And I´m sure the entire two back panels are rusted on the inside. Yeah. My car is a POS.
Now you´re telling me a 98-up Camaro will have ANY of these problems off the bat? It might have a leaky radiator hose or some used tires.
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Ya a capacitor will help but they are such a RIP OFF, the mark up on those is insane. from crutchfield a .5 farad cap is 80 bucks you can go on ebay and get a 2 farad cap for that price, not to mention all of the electronic cataloges that are out. The only thing you do not get is the flashy light and the digital reading, oh big whoop.
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[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]27-03-2003 at 18:43, gmoney wrote:
Not to add on to things, but in the future when you have an amp or more. It is generally a good idea to use a capacitor and let the amp or amps draw from that, the capacitor will also save your alternator and battery...Sorry to hear about the luck though!!
gmoney
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Ya a capacitor will help but they are such a RIP OFF, the mark up on those is insane. from crutchfield a .5 farad cap is 80 bucks you can go on ebay and get a 2 farad cap for that price, not to mention all of the electronic cataloges that are out. The only thing you do not get is the flashy light and the digital reading, oh big whoop.
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all a capacitor is is a fuckin battery
james...what is the bridge on ur amp? cuz if its bridged below its ohmage level it will suck the battery dry reallly quick. so do the math and make sure that u are operating above ur amp´s lowest ohm level. if its mtx, chances are u might havea 4 ohm stable amp and bridging it would be at 2 ohms....
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one thing about the MTx amps and subs.......DONT BUY THEM.....no matter what anybody says. any reveiws.....now about the battery draining, if you have a switch, do not forget to turn it off, with your remote it shuts off with your radio, now im not a fuckin rocket scientist with car audio, but i am a part of DeepViBRatIOns.....a illinois based sound team....after i fix up the car ill show you. What im running right now is a HART 12" square sub, pounds ass, powered by a Soundstorm 500w*2....and im runnin a 1 farad cap. As for the starter, i had a problem with mine, but you have a different car, and personally id keep an eye on the starter, mine had to be replaced, on my dads bronco the same thing happend, he had nothing extra, what happend is that his solenoid went i think, it fried wouldnt shut off. thats all i know really about the starter, any questions about a system go ahead and ask
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Whats wrong with MTX, I had the 8000 thunder and the 5170 thunder amp, I think that is what the model number was. In the year and a half i had it i never had a problem. And it sounded damn good. And there is no need for a switch for your amp your remote on your stero will take car of that and if you do not trust that, hook the remote from the amp up to the fuse that runs your stero in the fuse box. if you have everything hooked up correctly your amp will shut off when you turn the deck off. James if you need help let me know. After having 5 diffrent amps in my car 3 were at the same time my battery never went dead.
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Whats wrong with MTX, I had the 8000 thunder and the 5170 thunder amp, I think that is what the model number was. In the year and a half i had it i never had a problem. And it sounded damn good. And there is no need for a switch for your amp your remote on your stero will take car of that and if you do not trust that, hook the remote from the amp up to the fuse that runs your stero in the fuse box. if you have everything hooked up correctly your amp will shut off when you turn the deck off. James if you need help let me know. After having 5 diffrent amps in my car 3 were at the same time my battery never went dead.
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one thing about the MTx amps and subs.......DONT BUY THEM.....no matter what anybody says. any reveiws.....
Thanks it´s a little fucking late for that bullshit advice. OH and I have no idea what the bridge is on my amp. I´m not a big car audio guy.
The starter is dead. it´s sticking on my flywheel and I think that´s what pretty much took over killing my battery. How can it be THAT dead if I just drove it 3 hours before hand?
Thanks it´s a little fucking late for that bullshit advice. OH and I have no idea what the bridge is on my amp. I´m not a big car audio guy.
The starter is dead. it´s sticking on my flywheel and I think that´s what pretty much took over killing my battery. How can it be THAT dead if I just drove it 3 hours before hand?
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it should say right on the amp what the bridge ohm levels are, if not, in the manual for it. unless they´re downright lazy...corporate shenanigans...
james, dont listen to him...i´ve had pleanty of good experience w/ mtx. i´ve had my thunder 6000´s for about a year and a half and i´ve had no complaints. Most of my friends that have mtx have had no complaints...there´s a reason that mtx is a popular brand...if they sucked so bad like u say then they´d be on the shelf right next to them walmart or meijer brand POS subs.
Yeh, james, just check ur manual. In bridged mode, mtx usually has either 4ohm stable or 2 ohm stable. If u have one mtx sub, its prolly 4 ohms. but, since ur combining 2 or so channels on your amp, you have to divide how many ohms the sub has by 2. This gives u actually 2 ohms resistance in bridged mode. if ur amp cant handle that, then it will suck so much power from ur battery that u will not believe the damage it can and or will do. W/ my first system, i went through 2 batteries untill i found that i was running 1ohm when the amp could only handle minimum of 2ohms.
but who knows, it, like u said could have been ur starter... g/l with that
another thing, what happens when u leave ur lights on for about 2 or so hours...battery is almost completely dead. Those starters have to torque that engine over so they take a lot of amps...if it ran for like 2 or so hours then that would do it.
Yeh, james, just check ur manual. In bridged mode, mtx usually has either 4ohm stable or 2 ohm stable. If u have one mtx sub, its prolly 4 ohms. but, since ur combining 2 or so channels on your amp, you have to divide how many ohms the sub has by 2. This gives u actually 2 ohms resistance in bridged mode. if ur amp cant handle that, then it will suck so much power from ur battery that u will not believe the damage it can and or will do. W/ my first system, i went through 2 batteries untill i found that i was running 1ohm when the amp could only handle minimum of 2ohms.
but who knows, it, like u said could have been ur starter... g/l with that
another thing, what happens when u leave ur lights on for about 2 or so hours...battery is almost completely dead. Those starters have to torque that engine over so they take a lot of amps...if it ran for like 2 or so hours then that would do it.
but what i was talkin bout the amp drain is when ur driving and ur overpowering the amp w/ the ohm level, it sucks ur battery dead and u wont really realize it cuz ur car is running and you are using the alternator. When u shut ur car off u wont notice either, its when u go to start the bitch is when u´ll see that ya aint got no power.
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if i must say, ive had alright experience with MTx too...its just that for the same price i had some IMPP 10s and it hit harder....and my HART 12 that i got now...probally will out hit most of your cars now....it out hit my brothers prize winning neon....there fore to further define why i feel this way.....everyone can do much better.....if you want an amp....go audiobhan.....as for the subs....there is a lot of alright companies.....i had a sound specailist decide what would hit the hardest in my 300 price range...and that was it.......my hart 12....opinions are just that....my opinion is mine...and quite a few others....but what do we know right?
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If I went outside right now the interior lights will still glow, just very very dim. And if I turn the car off and the engine is still spinning, and then turn the key back on and the engine comes back on, then I´m 100% sure the starter gear is stuck in the flywheel. :-Y
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If I went outside right now the interior lights will still glow, just very very dim. And if I turn the car off and the engine is still spinning, and then turn the key back on and the engine comes back on, then I´m 100% sure the starter gear is stuck in the flywheel. :-Y
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