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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 94 Escort Wagon with the 1.9 engine. At idle this engine will start surging with or without the A/C on. It's not related to the compressor cycling. After 60 seconds or so (or sometimes just pushing in the clutch pedal will kill the engine), the engine dies unless you depress the accelerator pedal just a bit.

I have scanned the engine several times and come up with no codes. The O2 sensor is new as is the idle air control valve. What could be wrong, or what an I missing?

Any help is desperately needed and appreciated.

All the best,
Chumpy
 

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ok...now this is only an idea, i know my car was surging, but it was simply bc of my weak wires and an old cap and rotor. all i did was change it all, plugs, wires, cap rotor. Basically a tune up. And that seemd to fix it, now again mines an 89 and an auto, and has the TBI system so, hope this helps.
 

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Does the engine surge at high rpm, or when accelerating as well. If so, I would try changing your fuel filter.

If not, the most likely problem is a vacuum leak. I've had surging / stalling issues before with my 94 lx as well. In my case it turned out to be some bad vacuum hoses. It also turned out to be a convienient time to install a silicone hose kit :D

The eaisest (and cheapest) thing to start off with would be to trace ALL of those small little vacuum lines coming off your intake manifold, as well as off of the components connected to them. Take your time as there's quite a few of them. Also, check the hose that runs from your pvc to your intake manifold. If any hoses you check appear to be cracked or brittle, replace them when you can. If you find a complete hole (like I did) tape it up for a quick fix until you can find time to replace it. Vacuum hose is relatively cheap and easy to replace. If you feel like adding a little snazz to your engine bay, get some silicone hose. I re- vac hosed my car for $30 with blue silicone. Std vac hose is a dime a dozen, and can be purchased by the foot if you only need to replace a couple.

Hope that helps :wink:

EDIT: sethxtreme beat me in posting, but it would also be a problem.

Second gen Lx's use an EDIS ignition system, ie. They have no cap or rotor assembly.

However, bad wires could also cause a similar problem, but it would occur throughout the rev range again.

Matt 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I have given a cursory look over the vacuum hoses, but perhaps it is time to take each one off and just replace them all. The surging is at idle only. Anything above idle and it runs pretty smooth. It was a bit rough until I replaced the O2 sensor. The plugs and wires are fairly new.

All the best,
Chumpy
 

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Sounds similar to the problems we had when the TPS (throttle position sensor) went kinda screwy. It's possible that it's gone screwy at the throttle closed position and the computer can still see it just fine so it throws no codes.

I think mattman has the right idea, that vacuum issues are most likely, but thought another stab in the dark wouldn't hurt. :wink:
 

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I have this same problem. I noticed that I had a sucking sound coming from the engine compartment .It turned out that I have a vacum leak in the crankcase evacuation tube. It's a $26 part. A mechanic told me the best way to check for a vacum leak is to spray a flammible substance around theengine and if it starts to idle higher than you have a vacum leak somewhere.


Hope this helps.
 

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One other possibility is dirty/contaminated MAF sensing wires. Pull maf. Get can of electricla contact cleaner. Spray cleaner into housing where sensor wires are. Spray them until they are nice and shiny.

I'm leaning toward it being a vacuum or exhaust leak though. Yes, exhaust leak will give same symptoms as vacuum leak.
 

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Get a can of starting fluid and start at the intake manifold...spray along the top where it meets the head and along the bottom, between the runners. If you find nothing there, move onto ALL of the vacuum hoses and pay special attention to the little vac canister infront of and below the battery. I've had one of those crack on me and it took forever to sort that one out. Also hit the brake vacuum booster connection, also a known source for a good leak.
 

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dave8338 said:
Get a can of starting fluid and start at the intake manifold...spray along the top where it meets the head and along the bottom, between the runners. If you find nothing there, move onto ALL of the vacuum hoses and pay special attention to the little vac canister infront of and below the battery. I've had one of those crack on me and it took forever to sort that one out. Also hit the brake vacuum booster connection, also a known source for a good leak.
Definitely good advice. One tidbit I'd add is to wait a few minutes for the starting fluid to evaporate between testing different areas. I was looking for a problem on my Mustang and left a pool of starting fluid on my intake manifold... it took less than a minute for it to catch on fire and nearly melted my injector wires.
 
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