Wife's '98 Escort SE 4 door died while driving at 50 mph on an interstate ramp going from one interstate to another yesterday, and won't restart. Cranks, but no start. Inertia switch is not tripped. I can't hear the fuel pump and suspect that's the problem. Car has been running fine, and there are no stored codes. What else should I look for?
Engine died while driving
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Timing belt would be first on the list. I don't think you can watch the cam turn through the oil fill hole on the SPI, so you'll have to take the timing belt cover off and see if it's still on or not. Even if it's still on, the timing belt could have lost some teeth and skipped time. These cars are non-interference, so the timing belt breaking doesn't damage the engine.
Speaking of engine damage, the other (albeit less likely) possibility is that a valve seat dropped, although they usually make a racket when they fail, and the car will usually run on 3cylinders yet.
Speaking of engine damage, the other (albeit less likely) possibility is that a valve seat dropped, although they usually make a racket when they fail, and the car will usually run on 3cylinders yet.
I just diagnosed a crank, no start, no fuel pump situation in my car. My 15V "Engine" fuse was blown due to a short in the circuit. Now, my case didn't happen while driving. So your situation may, indeed, be very different from mine. But would be worth checking that fuse, I'd think?! It's in the fuse panel inside the cabin, driver's side under the dashboard by the door close to the pedals.
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Try removing the fuel fill cap and putting your ear close to it when someone turns the key on and off. You should definitely hear the fuel pump.
I was really hoping it's the fuel pump as I've done that job before - on the Tracer the Escort replaced - and it's not a bad job on these. I did remove the gas cap, but didn't open the flap in the fill tube, while my wife turned the key. It was faint, but I'm almost certain I heard the pump. Rather than just turn the key like I told her, she cranked the engine and it popped once like an engine trying to fire, but is out of time or flooded. That's the first time it's shown any sign of starting. I suppose it could still be the pump if it's going out, but hasn't completely quit, and just got enough fuel to the cylinder.
How difficult is changing the timing belt? It looks doable according to the Haynes manual, but I know there's not much room around anything under the hood. I have to work on this outside, and it's about 30 degrees today, 50s tomorrow, and back in the 20s and low 30s later this week.
How difficult is changing the timing belt? It looks doable according to the Haynes manual, but I know there's not much room around anything under the hood. I have to work on this outside, and it's about 30 degrees today, 50s tomorrow, and back in the 20s and low 30s later this week.
This is the correct way to do it on a 2nd gen:
It IS recommended to change the water pump once you're in there anyways.
I know there's a lot of discussions here on the forums about doing it quicker than what's shown in the video. I've always only done it that way, so I can't tell you about shortcuts, but you can find a lot if you search for it.
It IS recommended to change the water pump once you're in there anyways.
I know there's a lot of discussions here on the forums about doing it quicker than what's shown in the video. I've always only done it that way, so I can't tell you about shortcuts, but you can find a lot if you search for it.
I was hoping to get the cover off without taking the crank pulley off since I'm just trying to check the timing at this point, but it looks like the pulley has to come off to get access to that lower rear nut. My '98 2.0 has 2 nuts at both top and bottom, and 2 bolts in the middle, not 2 fasteners like the 1.9 in the video. I think the lower nuts just need to be loosened, not removed, to get the cover off.
From what little I can see with 5 of the 6 fasteners loose, the outside of the belt looks good and it's tight on the cam pulley. Can't see the timing marks or the teeth on the belt. Only 112,400 miles, but I realize it's 25 years old.
From what little I can see with 5 of the 6 fasteners loose, the outside of the belt looks good and it's tight on the cam pulley. Can't see the timing marks or the teeth on the belt. Only 112,400 miles, but I realize it's 25 years old.
Timing belt has been successfully changed! Old belt was only missing 14 teeth - including 10 in a row - and was about to shed some more. Tensioner was also weak as I slid the old belt off without relieving the tension, and the missing teeth were not a factor. I wouldn't have thought about the timing belt, so I thank you!
I watched several videos, including the one above, and while they are very helpful, every one of them leaves out crucial details regarding everything that needs to be removed to get access. Even the videos that show struggles make the job look like a piece of cake. It's definitely doable, but a 1/4" more clearance here and there would make it a lot easier. And all the guys making the videos somehow got their hands in places I can't get mine into, and I don't have large hands. To the commenter below one of the videos who says he did the job in 2 hours, including a trip to the parts store, after watching the video, I call BS. No way a first-timer does this job in anywhere close to 2 hours!
The adapters I recently bought that allow you to use a socket with a ratcheting box end wrench, came in really handy. A tire wrench that is used to take a tire off the rim works well to reach into tight spaces to push the belts into position. Long and thin, with no sharp edges.
I watched several videos, including the one above, and while they are very helpful, every one of them leaves out crucial details regarding everything that needs to be removed to get access. Even the videos that show struggles make the job look like a piece of cake. It's definitely doable, but a 1/4" more clearance here and there would make it a lot easier. And all the guys making the videos somehow got their hands in places I can't get mine into, and I don't have large hands. To the commenter below one of the videos who says he did the job in 2 hours, including a trip to the parts store, after watching the video, I call BS. No way a first-timer does this job in anywhere close to 2 hours!
The adapters I recently bought that allow you to use a socket with a ratcheting box end wrench, came in really handy. A tire wrench that is used to take a tire off the rim works well to reach into tight spaces to push the belts into position. Long and thin, with no sharp edges.
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Great that you found that faulty timing belt.
So is the car running now?
So is the car running now?
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Did you take any pictures of the bad timing belt?
I posed pics of mine here,
How-To: Replace Timing Belt on 2nd Gen LX (56k not welcome)
but now the picture is gone (forum changed and the pictures didn't transfer over).
I posed pics of mine here,
How-To: Replace Timing Belt on 2nd Gen LX (56k not welcome)
but now the picture is gone (forum changed and the pictures didn't transfer over).
The outer side looks fine. Besides the 12 missing teeth shown in the 2 photos, others were ready to peel off. I don't know if it was replaced in the first 40,000 miles of it's life, but the engine runs smoother and quieter than it has anytime in the 7 1/2 or 8 1/2 years and 70,000 miles we've owned it, which makes me wonder if it's been a tooth out of time all this time. When I test drove it before buying it, the first thing I noticed was engine vibration at idle, but being unfamiliar with 4 cyl engines, I figured that's just the way they are. Otherwise, it's always run well.
Original owner was a lady who was 82 when she bought it, so it sat a lot. Her neighbor made sure it got regular maintenance. When she died, the family sold it to the neighbor's son-in-law. He had it a short time before selling it to me so he could buy the truck he really wanted.
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