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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 91 gt and it has been running like crap actually it will not run at all if you look at my other post titled Somethings not right you can see my description of what is wrong. I know it is not the air intake sensor i checked that out and it is fine, so i want to test the EGR valve, but where is it and where is the PCV vavle.
 

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When I bought my intake system i accidentally dropped my MAF. Which is what connects the filter to the intake tube, well my car ran like crap for awhile until finally stopped working so I had to buy a new one. It cost me $125 but the car runs fine now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its not the maf i just ran 5 more tests on it and it passed with flying colors. But the odd thing is in the book that came with the tester the connector that is on the escort is listed under toyota and not the ford one??

[ This message was edited by: vipergt662 on 21-04-2003 15:02 ]

[ This message was edited by: vipergt662 on 21-04-2003 15:02 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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21-04-2003 at 16:34, 92gt5spd wrote:
the pcv valve goes right into the top of the valve cover....all ya gotta do is just shake it to test it.
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Thanks now i just have to find out where the EGR valve is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So the 91 gt does not have an Exhaust gas recirculation valve, other than the MAF or VAF what ever the hell it is called can anyone think of anything else that would make a car idle rough, stall when you give it gas, and make the tach go nuts. The only other thing i can think of is something that deals with the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Intake tube is fine that is the first thing that i looked at, i really do not want to have it towed to get a diagnostic run done.
 

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Make sure the cap and rotor are good and the plug wires as well. My g/f´s 91 gt had a plug wire go bad 2 weeks ago and it idle all screwy, hesitated, and seemed like it always wanted to stall. I know it sounds stupid but it could be something easy like that. Also maybe the fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cap, rotor, and fuel filter are no older than 4 months. Now the plug wires are originals so one of those might be a problem. A new set is what 40 bucks :-( .
 

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If you say the tach is going nuts, you may have some hidden elves playing with stuff while you drive. Follow the wiring diagram from the tach and check the components along the way. My guess is that its going to be in the distributor/ ignition system.
 

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The tach just measures something to do w/ resistance in the ignition... i think maybe the coil is where tach somehow ties in???
 

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let me sit down with the wiring diagram once I get home tonight and see how the tach is controlled in these dang things. then we can go from there
 

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Doesn´t a 1991 have a EEC-IV computer? If so you should be able to jumper the test connector and watch for the flashing light on the dash. Having said this, I doubt it´s a computer problem, but it´s a start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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22-04-2003 at 16:02, birddog wrote:
let me sit down with the wiring diagram once I get home tonight and see how the tach is controlled in these dang things. then we can go from there
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Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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22-04-2003 at 16:12, zzyzzx wrote:
Doesn´t a 1991 have a EEC-IV computer? If so you should be able to jumper the test connector and watch for the flashing light on the dash. Having said this, I doubt it´s a computer problem, but it´s a start.
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Well it is a computer problem, how do i jump the connector??? (91 gt 5 speed)
 

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I think what zzyzxyzxxxyzyxzzzyxyxyzyyyyxyxzzxyx is talking about is that when your car gets kuff´d up, the ECU throws a code to the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector is a little unit in the upper, upper right hand side of the engine compartment (when looking into the bay from the front of the car). It´s by the front left strut tower, right behind it on the firewall side. It´s covered by a black lid thing and looks a little like a relay unit.

Anyway, the cap comes off and you´ll see a bunch of litle holes where the fancy diagnostic machines go and do their fancy shit.

But we live in the ghetto and we can´t afford such things.

So you can hook up a voltmeter (analog) or something like an LED or whatever and hook it up to the correct holes and those will be the feed and ground. The ECU uses these to throw the code, which is sent in morse. A series of flashes and spaces denote different codes for different problems detected by the ECU. This table of codes can be found in a haynes manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey siragan thanks a lot. My dad bought a diagnostic reader that fit his SHO engine and our exploreres engine but it did not fit mine. But instead of flashing lights it beeped.
 
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