FEOA Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Idle is fine when engine is cold, but when its warmed up it starts to stumble and eventuall stalls. If the vaccum hose on top of the egr valve is disconnected, car runs fine.

I read this might be the egr vaccum solenoid, can someone post a pic? Or is this the same thing as the egr valve?

Thanks.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
When you remove the vacuum hose is disconnected, do you have it plugged off or is it open to the air? If open, I'd check you CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) as it may be reading wrong and running rich. An open vac line (depending on which one) is often just enough extra air to make it run "correctly".

If plugged, there is an internal vac leak in the EGR solenoid.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,686 Posts
It could be the valve, but if it was leaking I would think that it won't open fully. Might try the egr pressure sensor. The vacuum solenoid probably is fine. Also check all the vacuum hoses on the system. I had trouble with my egr back in march and ended up replacing everything. In my case I had a code for low egr flow, turns out the valve was the problem.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,327 Posts
on my lx i had the same problem on the EGR there's i think 2 vac lines? my uncle showed me this. take the vac line off and stick a bolt in it. my car had that same problem but a bolt made everything better.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
dave8338 said:
When you remove the vacuum hose is disconnected, do you have it plugged off or is it open to the air? If open, I'd check you CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) as it may be reading wrong and running rich. An open vac line (depending on which one) is often just enough extra air to make it run "correctly".

If plugged, there is an internal vac leak in the EGR solenoid.
When i disconnect the small vac line from the top of the egr (disc shaped mechanism on rear of intake manifold), I just leave it hanging, and the stumbling smooths out.

I will also try plugging it and see what happens.
How do you think we should check the crank temp sensor?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
white-lightning said:
It could be the valve, but if it was leaking I would think that it won't open fully. Might try the egr pressure sensor. The vacuum solenoid probably is fine. Also check all the vacuum hoses on the system. I had trouble with my egr back in march and ended up replacing everything. In my case I had a code for low egr flow, turns out the valve was the problem.
Wheres the egr pressure sensor?

Sorry, but the only part that I am able to knowingly point out is the actual egr valve (disc like mechanism on back of intake mani).

Can someone post a diagram of all the egr components?
What is the box mounted on the rear firewall that the two 1/2" vac lines go to?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
racethisescort89 said:
on my lx i had the same problem on the EGR there's i think 2 vac lines? my uncle showed me this. take the vac line off and stick a bolt in it. my car had that same problem but a bolt made everything better.
Theres a series of vac lines on the egr system... the one I disconnected was the very small one on top of the egr.

I think you are talking about the 2 larger ones that run from the egr "box" on the firewall, to the egr exhaust tube? Which one did you plug?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,327 Posts
i dont remember to be honest lol but stuffing a bolt in it stopped it shuddering and had no other effects on my car
 

· Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
portaman03 said:
dave8338 said:
When you remove the vacuum hose is disconnected, do you have it plugged off or is it open to the air? If open, I'd check you CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) as it may be reading wrong and running rich. An open vac line (depending on which one) is often just enough extra air to make it run "correctly".

If plugged, there is an internal vac leak in the EGR solenoid.
When i disconnect the small vac line from the top of the egr (disc shaped mechanism on rear of intake manifold), I just leave it hanging, and the stumbling smooths out.

I will also try plugging it and see what happens.
How do you think we should check the crank temp sensor?
Not "crank temp sensor"...Coolant Temp Sensor. If you have a manual, it should give spec limits for the resistance in the Coolant Temp Sensor (the one that the ECU uses to gauge the coolant temperature) which, when using a multi testor connected between the harness and the sensor itself, will give you a reading in Ohms resistance. I don't have the book in front of me, but it's in there. ;)

Keep in mind that this may not be it, but from what you say, with the vac line open and the idle smoothing out, I'm at the very least...suspect.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,057 Posts
go pick up a chiltons or haynes manual. a lot of us here have one.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,327 Posts
if the EGR vac line being removed makes it smooth out then ur EGR valve is toast. simple as that lol dont go searching for things that are probably not the cause. it means your EGR valve is creating vacuum at idle and thats a no no.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Do you mean the EGR valve is faulty, or do you mean the EVR is faulty?

There are 2 valves: the EGR valve opens to let some exhaust into the inlet when the car is not idling. But the EGR opens when it gets some vacuum. If there is some vacuum and the EGR opens, that's normal operation!! Not cause for replacing the EGR.

What causes the vacuum to be actuated is the EVR or electronic vacuum regulator. It's the valve at the other end of the vacuum line. Have a look at this diagram:



It comes from this post (Thanks 98_Jim):
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=63984
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top