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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a 1991 Escort with a 1.9L engine. It is a great car. This week I went through some high water with 2-3 inches on the floorboard. The engine died, but I restarted it and got pushed out after (2) minutes. I drove around for the next hour and everything was normal. Now after drying out everything works, but the car will only start being pushed off (standard) in gear. The starter works when hooked direct so it is between the ignition switch and the starter...

Here is the problem: When I attempt to check the trouble codes, I can't get the EEC to send them. I have jumpered the ST1 to ST0 with no luck. Are these (2) seperate problems? I have NO OTHER PROBLEMS with this car. Please respond with your informed insight...

Thank you,

Tex
 

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check your ground on the starter.. its not the ecu thats keep it from starting. If it was it wouldnt start even when pop starting it. check the ground
 

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Now after drying out everything works, but the car will only start being pushed off (standard) in gear. The starter works when hooked direct so it is between the ignition switch and the starter...
Hmm... It may be something with the Starter Clutch Pedal Position Switch:



The square highlight shows the switch itself -- check the connector going to the switch for proper operation, and check that the switch is operating correctly: disconnect the harness connector, then connect a VOM or continutity tester to the terminals on the switch... the switch should be open (not conducting) with the clutch pedal at rest and closed (conducting) when the clutch pedal is depressed.

The round highlight shows the "Switch Contact Point" -- basically, a little rubber piece that snaps into a bracket on the clutch pedal arm.. make sure there is one installed here... if not, you can pick one up at your local Ford dealership for a couple bucks.

FWIW: The problem I was having with my Cruise Control system not functioning at all turned out to be a missing "Switch Contact Point" (specifically, the other one... shown in the picture on the right side of the clutch pedal arm). Essentially, the Starter Clutch Pedal Position Switch (with contact point on the left brace attached to the clutch pedal arm) determines when the clutch pedal is depressed; the Clutch Pedal Position Switch (with contact point on the right brace attached to the clutch pedal arm) determines when the clutch pedal is NOT depressed.

...the interesting thing, from an engineering standpoint, is that (on my car, anyway) if the "Switch Contact Point" is missing, the little hole in which it mounts lines up perfectly with the switch actuator, and the actuator will slip right through that hole (and, thus, the switch will not provide the indication expected) !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
:arrow: Thanks for the input... The switch is good. I don't know about the ground. I have hooked a jumper to the "S" terminal (or ground) and ran it direct to the battery and the starter works. So I assume the ground is good. So all that is left is the wiring, which could be a little wet (in the harness). I come from a family of mechanics and mu brother said to park it in the sun and it will repair itsself (might be the best advice, yet).

But the computer should still send its code to the check engine light and it does not. Is this because I unhooked the battery overnight after it got wet? If so, why doesn't it send its 11 (system ok) code??

When this is answered, then I think we will have found the problem...

Please let me know since I am stumped.

Thanks!

-Tex
 

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you want to jump number ten to ground. I haven't looked at it in a long time so that may be exactly what you are saying. Look on the box and it might make more sense. I don't think there are any codes related to starting though so that might not turn up anything anyway.
 

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Tex said:
Hello,
Here is the problem: When I attempt to check the trouble codes, I can't get the EEC to send them. I have jumpered the ST1 to ST0 with no luck. Are these (2) seperate problems? I have NO OTHER PROBLEMS with this car. Please respond with your informed insight...
Tex
Tex,

I actually did this exact thing on the same car a few hours ago before coming into work (stupid overnight shift) Got an error on the engine coolant temperature sensor but on closer inspection it looks to be a disconnected ground wire could be the cause. Well find out when my shift is done and that's another story anyway ....

I'm not sure what the ST1 and ST0 are so either your talking about different connectors or we're using different words to describe the same thing so I'll just go into overkill mode ...

Find the EEC test plug in the engine compartment behind the battery which should be easy since it is labeled "EEC Test", hehee. That whole thing can be gently pulled of it's metal support. take off the cover and you'll have two plugs; one with I think 5 or 6 pin's (A row of two and a row of 3 or 4 pins - I don't remember the exact count) and just a single pin connector.

Jump the single pin connector (Self Test Input) to right pin in the row of 2 (Signal Return Pin) . Turn the ignition on (but don't start the car) You'll hear the clicking of relays, the cooling fan will turn on and off than shortly after that you'll get your EEC codes via the blinking check engine light.

You might want to run the running engine test as well but the details slip my mind. Involves running the engine, turn it off, run it again turning the steering wheel and 10-15 seconds somewhere. :lol:

Anyway, hope that helped in someway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Krank,

Thanks for the info. I have since been able to obtain the codes. I do have a question since you seem to spend more time than I do under the hood (dash?). I get a 67 code on the "o" mode (with just the key on). The book says that this is a Neutral Switch open circuit. Can you shed a little light on the matter? I found a switch all the way under the car that might be it, or is the computer telling me something else. Your guess would be as good as mine, so go for it!

Thanks again,

Tex

PS - I am off to PU an ignition switch...
 

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As for what the source of the problem is, I would take a guess it's the neutral switch on the transmission which would sound about right since this all started when you went through a fair amount of water. Maybe the impact of the water wiggled the connector loose and driving around finally seperated the connectors. The switch itself is _proabably_ fine or it wouldn't have started at all after you got out of the water.

While I"m in the general area reconnecting that ground wire later today I"ll see if I can find the connector for the switch. I'll race ya :twisted:
 

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tex,

didn't have much luck myself tracking down the neutral position switch but wanted to see what luck you had if any. any update?
 

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The neutral position switch you are looking for is the the cluch engage switch that Turbo was talking about. There is no neutral position switch on a manual, that is only on the autos.
 
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