eBay turbo kit

Falconnest said:

a boost controller and a fuel pressure regulator is hardly a good solution. what are you going to do when the ECU freeks the crap out from the boost? how are you going to over come the boost not letting the injectors flow? ohh a variable fuel pressure regulator??? let me know how long your injections last running so close to max… sure the kit has a lot of stuff that will get you started but it’s just that, a start.

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Yes, I am certain for high boost applications, approaching some of the horsepower figures they indicate, higher flowing injectors would be needed. At moderate levels of boost, obviously higher fuel pressure provides more fuel for the same injector duration.

something like that, 32 iirc, been a while. engine was built for efficiency, which it is just that. I have blown up probably 5 of them, and a few split port engines in the past. I have sort of a unique perspective on this turbo stuff. going from FMU, disgustang maf and 42# injectors, 42# with fmu, apexi safc,... then to MS1. I've tried them all. back then it was just a few of us, me, Jeff, pony, gimp and there wasn't a 'kit' or a 'writeup' or a 'video' .. this all predates youtube.

Lynn Schell said:

Yes, I am certain for high boost applications, approaching some of the horsepower figures they indicate, higher flowing injectors would be needed. At moderate levels of boost, obviously higher fuel pressure provides more fuel for the same injector duration.

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again, you are completely missing the point, I explained the entirety of it in a few posts back. you are taking some eBay sellers word over those that have literally been doing this for 21 years,..

but by all means,. you do you.

Perhaps you are making some negative assumptions due to contempt prior to investigation. There is absolutely no reason to not contact the seller of the kit with your concerns. I'm not selling this. Considering how much money it takes to soup up air-cooled VW's, I consider the amount of parts and materials to be a bargain. I've owned seven of them. And, as I have mentioned, I have turned wrenches as a certified ASE Master Tech for over 30 years. Worked on Saab 99 and 900 Turbos before most of you were born, probably.

This is getting silly.

Just for fun, I decided to look up the cost of some this stuff. A Chinese knockoff T3 turbo can easily be had for under $100, Turbo manifolds are typically under $150. So the two most expensive parts of that kit cost no more than $250 retail. Universal intercooler piping kit, $80. Intercooler, $80. Universal oil cooler with lines and sandwich adapter, $80. Fuel management unit, $135. Universal T3 downpipe, $45. Blowoff valve, $32. I'm at $702 for all the major components in that kit. You could potentially piece it together with everything else for around $1K.

Lynn Schell said:

Perhaps you are making some negative assumptions due to contempt prior to investigation. There is absolutely no reason to not contact the seller of the kit with your concerns. I'm not selling this. Considering how much money it takes to soup up air-cooled VW's, I consider the amount of parts and materials to be a bargain. I've owned seven of them. And, as I have mentioned, I have turned wrenches as a certified ASE Master Tech for over 30 years. Worked on Saab 99 and 900 Turbos before most of you were born, probably.

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First things first bud. Buy a stand-alone ecu! Simple as that! Without it your $1500 🤔 “”bargain”” turbo kit won’t do much. As a Master Tech you should know You can rant and rant but in the end you’ll never know unless you waste the money and buy that kit. Just look you civic turbo kit on eBay for $600 you get everything that $1500 kit has minus the turbo header(which probably doesn’t fit well anyways). You’ll need to fabricate a lot of things no other way around it. These aren’t popular cars and to assume an overpriced eBay kit will have everything you need is honestly kinda niave.

Lynn Schell said:

Perhaps you are making some negative assumptions due to contempt prior to investigation.

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again... you are completely missing the point here....
please feel free to review this post from 2006, I have a pretty good understanding on how this works. there is even sections talking about the FMU. but by all means,. take the ebay sellers word for it.

TracerLTS/GT said:

First things first bud. Buy a stand-alone ecu! Simple as that! Without it your $1500 🤔 “”bargain”” turbo kit won’t do much. As a Master Tech you should know You can rant and rant but in the end you’ll never know unless you waste the money and buy that kit. Just look you civic turbo kit on eBay for $600 you get everything that $1500 kit has minus the turbo header(which probably doesn’t fit well anyways). You’ll need to fabricate a lot of things no other way around it. These aren’t popular cars and to assume an overpriced eBay kit will have everything you need is honestly kinda niave.

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I don't think I'm the one ranting here. Maybe it's got a disposable $100 Turbo. I don't know, but, do you? Do you know anyone who has bought and installed this? I was hoping to get an experienced opinion with THIS kit. Apparently you have none, and are skeptical that it won't be anything other than a POS. I get that. I don't have the wherewithal to install it presently anyway. Thanks for your opinion.

alright so I'm assuming you are just trolling at this point,.. all of the information has been laid out in front of you, in super simple form..

no one here has installed this, because it is CRAP, JUNK, LOW QUALITY SCRAP... but you are avoiding that topic.

I'm 66 and not even sure WTF internet "trolling" means. I not trying to argue anything. You biased opinion is dually noted. Maybe you're right. But, I haven't seen much evidence to support it. BTW, do you remember if removing the timing "jumper", advances or retards the timing on the 2nd gen SOHC's? I not only forgot, I forgot if it's plugged in or hidden somewhere! I've had this 93 for 23 years. Broke the LH outer CV joint fetching some monster wheels down a pot holed MUDDY road for my 95 Exploder a few days ago. Got both axles under lifetime warranty from AutoZone. Cheap aftermarket boots. No worries, I ain't got the money or energy right now to go beyond basic NECESSARY repairs. I troll for grouper, not groups. 😉🤫

I believe that is the "octane selector" which is an open plug that's hidden under the plastic shielding around the shifter.
I think jumping its two leads together retards the timing a couple degrees.

Thanks for reminding me about it, as I had thought (and promptly forgot) about putting a switch on it to test if it actually does anything. Occasionally in hot summer weather, under high load on uphill grades the engine will knock. It would be neat to see if switching the selector on and off made a noticeable difference in knocking.

trolling is when you create a thread on a specific topic, then ask or give invalid information in the hopes of getting a rise out of the others in the group.

my opinion is biased because I have been in this group since 2002, I have turbo'ed dozens of escorts and other vehicles, blown up dozens of engines, and actually wrote the book on how to do it.. so ya, I am a bit biased based off experience.

octane adjust plug is up near the driver strut tower, it retards the timing a few degrees if jumped..

On my car the octane adjust plug is where I stated it is, but I might have got the operation reversed.
Anyhow, here's a thread all about it, maybe we can detour this thread into a happier place.

around the shifter? like inside the vehicle? canadian?

Yes, my car is a Canadian one, 1992 SEFI 1.9.
However, reading the thread I linked to above, it appears others also find the plug in the same place.

weird, maybe it was a pre 93 thing.

marclar said:

weird, maybe it was a pre 93 thing.

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Apparently it's in the 97's, as well as my 93, according to the chat a while back. Kinda surprised many here weren't aware of it. It's not like ign. timing ain't relevant to a LOT of things in how an engine operates.

I think I understand why many owners don't know of the octane switch. It's buried under plastic covers, and difficult to find reference to it even in the shop manual.

I imagine the idea was that it would be removed if the car were to go to someplace with known low octane gas. It may never have actually even been used though.

Is it even mentioned in the owners' manual?

some references during a select few runability tests. all in all it was hardly ever used for anything.