Drivetrain - Drive and Overdrive can't find 1st Gear | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Drivetrain Drive and Overdrive can't find 1st Gear

Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by Xternyl, May 24, 2020.

  1. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

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    Oh yeah, don't try to take it out, it's a mess I hear. I'm just saying if it's saturated in oil on the wiring, clean the external stuff off. And it sounds more like vss now that Denison mentions it.

    The range switch and VSS are things we all dread removing.
    The range switch wiring is worth a look, not trying to remove it unless it's proven bad.

    I go overboard with pressure washing, so yeah.... I still maintain it's better than scrubbing shampoo into fabric ;)

    Edit: my big point about the range switch is that it (3 times on 2 escorts) disabled my reverse lights, and tried to stall in every gear. So you can throw it in reverse and see if the reverse lights work. Usually a dead giveaway.
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
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  2. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    Drove it today to get parts, same issue but now a burning smell and white smoke from the exaust. Idk it feels almost a lost cause...
  3. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    The white smoke easily could have been condensation, which is normal
  4. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    Im used to the condesation, it gets bad in the rain. But the new burning smell is what gets me.
  5. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    I have notice a light cloud of smoke from the firewall side of the engine bay during my daily turn on, only happens at engine Rev. It seems there is multiple issue with the car and since money is tight now, I may just take it to a shop and call it that. I don't have all the tools to fix nor do I have the type of friend whom help.
  6. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I would be checking for an exhaust leak.
  7. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

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    Oh God, is it smoke or is it steam?
  8. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    Light smoke, only when revd. Like if you wasn't paying attention or the hood was closed you probably wouldn't notice it
  9. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I would just drive it as is until it causes a real problem, the cause becomes appearant, or you have emissions testing.
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2020
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  10. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    No emissions in Texas. But I'll let it sit until I can fund it to be fixed.
  11. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    I been driving it daily, only short distances a d not over 40mph no real major issues occasionally a large puff of smoke on deaccel if driven for over a couple of hours and a bit more stalling at long stops. Since I was laid off, I can't fund repairs so I guess I'll drive till it breaks.
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  12. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    A common reason for a puff of blue after deceleration is that the oil seals on the valve stems are dried out. The blue smoke doesnt hurt anything.
    To help with stalling at long stops, try cleaning out the much inside the throttle body with a rag with solvent on it. The oil mist joins with the dust getting past the inlet filter, and builds up. When it forms a lip inside the throttle plate, it can cause a lean condition. This also wont hurt anything.

    Sorry you got laid off.
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  13. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    The smoke isn't blue, it is white. And thanks. Even still, I'll take your advices
  14. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    As I put more fluid in the car it acts a bit better. Still having the shift issue but then again I haven't did much to fix it besides adding Fluids. In a few months or so I'll be tackling the VSS.
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  15. pextor

    pextor Moderator Staff Member

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    If the speedometer reads at all, the VSS is fine. You will get a code (P0500) if the VSS is bad.
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  16. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    No P0500 and Speedometer is fines just the no speed in OD or D until 2nd gear unless I'm using L.
  17. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

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    Now, are you SURE your reverse lights are working?

    When the range switch fails, it slips and slips in first, then goes to second for a moment, then will try to downshift to first at 30mph etc. It drives like there's no fluid in the trans. Like 3000rpm at 5mph...

    Another clue is it idles fine in park and neutral, but idles low in gear because the IAC isn't compensating for the extra load of being in gear.. because it doesn't know it's in gear.

    Not saying it's your problem, but sometimes extra clues make the symptoms more "clear".

    Another thing to consider is all of the wires hooked to the battery. When those get corroded, all kinds of weird stuff happens.
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  18. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    On 3 of my Escorts, I have cut the wires off that went to that rectangular connection on the negative battery terminal. I stripped the insulation back, soldered them together, along with a thicker wire that I bolted to the grounded bolt on the firewall behind the battery.
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  19. Xternyl

    Xternyl FEOA Member

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    Reverse lights work, it idles higher in N then in park.
    The car just doesn't know it time to go in second gear and it sometimes fails to "catch"(that what it feels like) 1st when accelerating in D or OD. So I learn to drive the car through Low until 20 then switch to D. Then the car is fine until deacceleration where I have to switch back to L when it downshifts to first. It is like driving a clutchless manual if it was built in 2001. Other then all this the car is absolutely fine but my wife can't drive like this, otherwise I wouldn't mind it. I'm sorry I'm not that specific, but besides age everything else seems fine.
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2020
  20. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    The sequence of having to drive it in L till you are going a few miles per hours (like 25 or better) then shifting to Drive or Overdrive sounds a lot like the way an F4EAT works when it is pretty far worn out. I hope Im wrong, and that it sorts itself out.
    My first rebuild of an F4EAT worked 'okay', but shifted from first to third each time - for a few hundred miles. After being in third it would go into overdrive just fine. Then about 2 weeks and 200 hundred miles later - it went to shifting just like it was supposed to - and has done so for the last 11 years and many thousands of miles. I never did find out what the problem was, though I suspected I had gotten some foreign material in one of the spool valves that finally worked it way free.
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