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about 75 bucks for the kit. For more info about it, check out the new sport compact car magazine and there is an add for that. From what i hear its kinda tough...Ya gotta bondo or spot weld, its up to u how u want that done...shave the locks while ur at it. so u shoulld get a security system with that to get the remote lock/unlock.
 

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phew, i dunno, i know u´d have to remove and bondo door handles...and for the solenoids for the door too open, i have no idea where they go, but i know there is some cuttin and whatnot in there..
 

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-Remove door handle.
-Cut peice of sheet steel about 1mm smaller than the handle opening
-Tack weld the peice in place...I said Tack...no bead running!
-Shortstrand Fiber glass fill after you sand and clean it.
-Body filler over the top.
-Prime...ready for full paint

-Install solenoid on bracket inside door panel
-Make sure solenoid doesn´t interfere with window
-Hook up cable to lock actuator...then to solenoid
-Run solenoid wires to Relay and then to transmitter under the dash (the one you just installed)
-Test your transmitter to make sure it works :cool:
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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25-02-2003 at 18:56, 92gt5spd wrote:
about 75 bucks for the kit. For more info about it, check out the new sport compact car magazine and there is an add for that. From what i hear its kinda tough...Ya gotta bondo or spot weld, its up to u how u want that done...shave the locks while ur at it. so u shoulld get a security system with that to get the remote lock/unlock.
[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]

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Where at? I have the April issue of SCC mag. and I can´t find it!! WHERE is it?!? :-o
 

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its like in the middle of the magazine. ITs on the same page as the advertisements for the trunklid kits and whatnot. I can tell u its on the front of a page and not the back so that elimates half of the magazine ;-)
 

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If you dont have a welder available fiberglass can also be used. With just tack welding it leaves the back side of the bondo or short strand fiber filler (also known as kittyhair) exposed to moisture. If you use that method instead of ´real´ fiberglass make sure to seal the backside with undercoat or equivelant. When fillers are esposed to moisture it will start to lift or bubble.

I prefer welding solid but on the escorts the metal is way to thin. Solid welding will warp the entire door due to excessive heat... I chose fiberglass for that reason. No chance for any imperfections to surface over time.
 

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Yeah...that is one thing I forgot to mention.

I usually shutz some gravel guard or some amber rustproofing in there to seal things up from the backside (A little bit of slime oil can´t hurt as an extra measure)

It gets really annoying seeing "bondo" swell after a year of absorbing moisure....especially after a paint job.
 

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I´m thinking of doing mine but I´ll probably keep the lock to use as an actuator.I have gone through three alarm remotes in the last year and a half so the whole wireless thing scares me.It´s bad enough when you have to disconnect your battery(so I don´t go nuts from the siren) and bypass the alarm but not be able to get in?no way not for me!I kill watches, shades, cell phones and alarm remotes!
 
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