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Door Chime Removal How-to (The Easy Way)

45K views 43 replies 33 participants last post by  JohnH 
#1 ·
This is a quick how-to on removing the door chime. There is 2 ways of doing this. The first way requires effort, and the second requires less effort, but the lock cylinder has to work.

Tools Required: Philips Screw Driver. (Why you can't use your own screw driver I don't know. It has to be philip's. :D )

Step 1: Find the steering column. Sometimes that can be a problem. So here's the picture of what it looks like.



Step 2: Remove these screws and split the bottom column cover off. Take care not to rip the lamp socket apart.



Step 3: Remove this screw. You can't see mine because it's not there. I did this project at a tailgate party in the pasture and lost it.



Step 4: Be very carefull!! Lightly lift on the bottom of the switch and clock it to the left. Like I show in the picture. If the plastic looks like it's stretching on top then get a needle nose plier and loosen the top screw just a little. Then try to clock the switch to the left. Reassemble everything and you're done.



The second way of doing this is even easier. The lock cylinder plunger has to work. Do not take anything apart. Drop the column adjust lever, turn the key on, and take an old feeler gauge and jam it up between the switch and the cylinder. Snap the excess off and your done. However if the lock cylinder plunger worked then you wouldn't be doing this mod. :D
 
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#5 ·
hmm, are there any side effects of doing it that way? i cut one of the 6 wires that go to that white clip just above where you messed with, and disconnected a clip under the drivers seat to get mine to go away.
 
#6 ·
me19875 said:
hmm, are there any side effects of doing it that way? i cut one of the 6 wires that go to that white clip just above where you messed with, and disconnected a clip under the drivers seat to get mine to go away.
None that I can see in the schematics. The logic behind it is that the car thinks the lock cylinder is in the on position all the time. No relation to the ignition on, just postion. I can't test it any further as I don't have the scort anymore.
 
#10 ·
ur telling me, i have been serching for the beeper thing too. I know u can take the button off the ddor jamb, but that wuill make the dome light not work, so i dont wanan do that.


Beep beeep beeep beeep, kills me keys on or not, light on or off doesnt matter.. beeep beep beep beep beep
 
#18 ·
i just loosend the screw on all of the doors so it couldnt ground. that worked..
 
#19 ·
Here is a thought, and I'm going to try it! why don't you bend the copper connection that has slid loose, (or tight, whichever one it is) back into the position it's supposed to be in, then everything works, and you haven't broke or disconnected anything? :D I'm trying this tomorrow. Mine has been doing this for a while, but I don't notice it til someone gets in my passenger seat, (disconnected the switch for the electronic seatbelt, as the cable pulled through the doorseal, 2nd 2dr this has happened to.)
 
#20 ·
me19875 said:
hmm, are there any side effects of doing it that way? i cut one of the 6 wires that go to that white clip just above where you messed with, and disconnected a clip under the drivers seat to get mine to go away.
x2 - cut the small white wire coming from the white clip with six wires in the photo. Problem solved and you still have the chime for leaving your lights on accidentally.
 
#21 ·
Thanks Trencher. I just tried your mod last night and it worked, with a slight twist.

For some reason, I had a little more congestion under my steering column than your pics showed, and I didn't have enough clearance to 'clock' the white switch assembly around past the opening for the little nub plunger.

So, I took a cable tie and tie'd the nub plunger down into the 'off' position. I then rotated the white switch assembly back to it's orignal position and even had enough space (with the cable tie) to put the old screw back (just to keep everything snug).

Trim back in place and I was good to go. Ahhh, blessed silence! No more of my Scort reminding me my door is open....seriously, are we drivers too lazy to open our eyes and LOOK for an open door, that we need an audible alarm???

Thanks again!
 
#23 · (Edited)
The pics in this how-to seems to be broken at the moment. Too bad, I wish I could see exactly what the guy was doing in the pics.

I attacked the annoying door chime problem tonight. I took the little white switch apart to see what's inside and shoved a piece of plastic up in there to prevent the switch pieces from making contact.


 
#25 ·
Gonna try it

I can't believe I found this thread, even if it's been a while since anyone posted. I will be the HUGEST star in my wife's eyes if I can make her 95 Tracer wagon SHUT THE HELL UP where the key-in-ignition beeper is concerned. I loosened the three bolts under the wheel housing (there's one by the tilt adjustment arm too) but the whole plastic housing seems as one, although there is a seam. Is there a trick to getting the bottom separated? Should I just force it? Squeeze it? Pull real hard? I'm great at breaking things so I thought I'd ask a pretty easy one.
 
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