Distributor Cap & Rotor | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
  1. Wash your hands and do not touch your face, keep it safe and clean. Long live Feoa!

Distributor Cap & Rotor

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by mxman420, Mar 28, 2017.

  1. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA
    Hi all. I got a 1994 LX Sport. It was my Mom's. has 62,000 miles on it. And yesterday it started running rough when I pulled to a stop light. Sounds like it's missing on a cylinder. Turn around and limp it home, it's detonating under load. Sounds like a diesel. So checked coolant after it cooled. plenty there. Was going to pull the plugs and replace them, the wires, rotor and cap. Only to find nobody can get the cap and rotor. I was at AutoZone, Advanced Auto, NAPA, online at Rock Auto and even Fords site. Everyone has it listed for the 1.8L but zero for the 1.9L.
    Any idea where I can these?
  2. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    4,552
    Likes Received:
    442
    Trophy Points:
    333
    Location:
    Russellville, Kentucky
    '94 doesn't have a cap and rotor. It's a distributorless ignition system. I'd check to be sure all the plug wires are snapped good at the coil and plug. Also be a good idea to check for codes that might lead you to the problem and check for vacuum leaks. If there are no codes or vacuum leaks I'd start with new plugs and go from there.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  3. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA

    Thanks FordMan59. Well that would make sense then. Nice of any of the auto places to say something.
    Just another stupid question, how do I pull codes from a car that doesn't have OBD?
  4. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    4,552
    Likes Received:
    442
    Trophy Points:
    333
    Location:
    Russellville, Kentucky
    The '94 is OBD it's just an earlier version than OBD II which started in '96. Here's how to pull codes on pre '96 Ford products. https://www.feoa.net/threads/how-to-pull-codes-without-a-code-reader.61758/ I'm pretty sure your '94 has three digit codes instead of 2 digit codes like the 1st generation Escort. If you get any codes post them here and hopefully myself or someone else can help you decipher them. Don't just take the codes into a parts store asking for advice, they're in the business of selling parts and will often tell you, you need such and such part when in reality they are just guessing and start out by guessing you need a part rather that possibly just needing to replace a vacuum line or clean a sensor. Many here on this forum have owned and worked on Escorts enough that they know all the ins and outs of them and will likely be able to give better advice than someone at an auto parts store. It sometimes may take us a while to figure out a problem, but most of the time if the owner does their part there will be enough suggestions come in to find the problem. One thing to be sure to check is where the PCV hose attaches there will be a 90* elbow check it for cracks or that it isn't split. It it's split there will be a significant vacuum leak and the car will run like shit. There were no unusual noises such as loud tapping or knocking associated with this incident were there? The reason I ask is that it's not uncommon for these engines to drop valve seats, but if the car only has 62K miles and has never been overheated not likely that's the problem. If by chance it has dropped a valve seat it's likely when you pull the plugs the plug in the cylinder with the dropped seat will have damage. Cylinder #4 seems to be the most common for dropping seats, but it can happen on any cylinder.
    denisond3 and zzyzzx like this.
  5. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA
    Thank you FordMan59. I ordered the code reader and extension today. But I did read through the link. Very cool, thanks.
    I'm a motorcycle mechanic by trade for about 27 years. I looked quick in the rain and dark at my engine, saw what looked like a cap where the wires attached. Working on cars never was as much fun as it was work for me.
    And no there wasn't any sudden noise or anything before hand. This actually has happened before but only for a few seconds before everything cleaned up, over the past month. Never even thought of the PCV valve. Makes total sense, sucking air, leaning out the mixture, causing it to run hot, and detonating.
    As soon as the rain stops and it light, I'm getting under there and checking. I have had a new pcv valve in the car for the past 6 months just never felt the need to swap it in.
    Once again, Thanks FordMan59.
  6. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

    Messages:
    15,028
    Likes Received:
    1,175
    Trophy Points:
    463
    Location:
    Baltimore, MD USA
    I would be checking the spark plug wires to see if one of them isn't loose.
  7. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA
    Okay. So I got my code reader, and it stopped raining. Plugged it in, key on, engine off. First time I got code: 10, 335,116, 326. Tried it again and got codes 10, 335, 10, 326.
    I also pulled the plugs, all look normal, wires have been done recently after reviewing mom's records. Just replaced the pcv valve, hose and elbow.
    Oh and it idles at 1500 now while cold. When it was hot it was barely at 500 rpm.
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2017
  8. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    1,480
    Likes Received:
    446
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Central OH
    Clean the dpfe with electronics cleaner like 10 times. The egr valve is probably dirty, but the dpfe is more the problem. Dpfe's being dirty or having the hoses disconnected causes the egr codes to be backwards. The ping is from a lack of egr flow actually.
  9. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    4,552
    Likes Received:
    442
    Trophy Points:
    333
    Location:
    Russellville, Kentucky
    I'm not sure what the code 10 Cylinder #1 low means. Maybe run a compression test and see if #1's numbers are the same or close to the other cylinders. Maybe a valve seat that's lose but hasn't dropped yet???? #116 was probably because the engine was not up to temperature. If the engine was at full operating temperature you may need to replace the ECT sensor. This could cause driveability issue. Here's a list of the trouble codes and definitions:

    1 - 8
    Cylinder No (as code) low power Cylinder balance test
    9 Pass Cylinder balance test
    10 Cylinder No. 1 low Cylinder balance test
    11 Cylinder No. 2 low Cylinder balance test
    12 Cylinder No. 3 low Cylinder balance test
    12 Cylinder No. 4 low Cylinder balance test
    111 All systems OK
    112 Low voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT) Normal operating temp not reached
    113 High voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT) Normal operating temp not reached
    114 Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT) Normal operating temp not reached
    116 Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) Normal operating temp not reached
    117 Low voltage Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) Normal operating temp not reached
    118 High voltage Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) Normal operating temp not reached
    121 Outside range throttle position sensor (TPS)
    122 Low voltage throttle position sensor (TPS)
    123 High voltage throttle position sensor (TPS)
    124 Above spec throttle position sensor (TPS)
    125 Below spec throttle position sensor (TPS)
    126 MAP voltage above spec
    128 MAP sensor/vacuum hose fault
    129 MAF sensor, no MAF change during throttle depression Repeat self test proceedure
    136 Lambda sensor (left) mixture lean
    137 Lambda sensor (left) mixture rich
    139 Lambda sensor (left)
    144 Lambda sensor (right)
    157 Low voltage mass air flow sensor (MAF)
    158 HIGH voltage mass air flow sensor (MAF)
    159 Outside range mass air flow sensor (MAF)
    167 Throttle position sensor (TPS). No change during throttle depression Repeat self test procedure
    171 Lambda sensor (right)
    172 Lambda sensor (right) too lean
    173 Lambda sensor (right) too rich
    174 Lambda sensor (right) slow response
    175 Lambda sensor (left)
    176 Lambda sensor (left) too lean
    177 Lambda sensor (left) too rich
    178 Lambda sensor (left) slow response
    179 Fuel system lean, part throttle
    181 Fuel system rich, part throttle
    182 Idle mixture too lean Idle speed control vale (ISC)
    183 Idle mixture too rich Idle speed control vale (ISC)
    184 Above spec manifold air flow sensor
    185 Below spec manifold air flow sensor
    186 Too long injection time pulse width
    187 Too short injection time pulse width
    188 Lambda sensor on left, mixture too lean (part throttle)
    189 Lambda sensor on left, mixture too rich (part throttle)
    191 Idle mixture too lean, left hand Lambda sensor Check EGR valve, check ISC valve
    192 Idle mixture too rich, lright hand Lambda sensor Check EGR valve, check ISC valve
    193 Flexible fuel sensor circuit
    194 Lambda sensor
    195 Lambda sensor
    211 PIP signal
    212 Tach, circuit, SPOUT grounded. SPOUT circuit, open circuit
    213 Tach, circuit, SPOUT grounded. SPOUT circuit, open circuit
    214 CID circuit failure
    215 #1 Coil
    216 #2 Coil
    217 #3 Coil
    218 Tachometer circuit
    219 Spark timing default to 10 deg rectify SPOUT circuit
    220 Tachometer circuit
    221 Spark timing error
    225 Knock sensor
    226 EEC IV/EDIS module pulse
    227 Engine speed/crankshaft position sensor (CPS)
    228 EDIS module/ignition coil winding 1
    229 EDIS module/ignition coil winding 2
    231 EDIS module/ignition coil winding 3
    232 Primary circuit of ignition coil (IGC)
    233 EDIS module
    234 Ignition Coil (IGC)
    235 Ignition Coil (IGC)
    236 Ignition Coil (IGC)
    237 Ignition Coil (IGC)
    238 EDIS module/ignition coil
    239 PIP signal present when cranking
    241 EEC IV/EDIS module, incorrect self test data Repeat self test procedure
    243 Coil failure
    244 Cylinder identification fault when power balance requested
    311- 316 Pulse air/thermactar air system faulty
    326 Electronic pressure transducer (EPT)/differential pressure feedback exhaust (DPFE) sensor
    327 Electronic pressure transducer (EPT)/differential pressure feedback exhaust (DPFE) sensor/electronic vacuum regulator (EVR)
    328 Electronic vacuum regulator (EVR)
    332 EGR valve not opening
    334 Electronic vacuum regulator
    335 Electronic pressure transducer (EPT)/differential pressure feedback exhaust (DPFE) sensor
    336 Exhaust pressure too high
    337 Electronic pressure transducer (EPT)/differential pressure feedback exhaust (DPFE) sensor/electronic vacuum regulator (EVR)
    338 Cooling System
    339 Cooling System
    341 Octane adjust (service multiplug) grounded Disconnect for self test, reconnect after
    411 Engine speed during self test too low Cure induction leaks, repeat test
    412 Engine speed during self test too low Cure induction leaks, repeat test
    413 - 416 ISC valve Cure induction leaks, repeat test
    452 Vehicle speed sensor
    453 Servo leaking down
    454 Servo leaking up
    455 Insufficient RPM increase
    456 Insufficient RPM decrease
    457 - 458 Speed control fault
    511 ROM fault Battery disconnected, check KAM fuse. if OK module faulty
    512 Keep alive memory (KAM) fault Battery disconnected, check KAM fuse. if OK module faulty
    513 EEC IV module reference voltage V
    519 Power steering pressure switch (PSPS) not activated during self test Repeat test
    521 Power steering pressure switch (PSPS) not activated during self test Repeat test
    522 Neutral/drive switch (NDS)
    525 Vehicle in gear or air conditioning on
    528 Clutch switch error
    536 Brake on/off (BOO) switch not activated during self test Repeat test
    538 Operating error during self test. Air Conditioning switched on Repeat test
    539 Operating error during self test. Air Conditioning switched on Repeat test
    542 Fuel pump (FP) circuit failure
    543 Fuel pump (FP) circuit failure
    551 Idle speed control (ISC) circuit failure
    552 Pulse air circuit failure
    554 Fuel pressure regulator control circuit failure
    556 Electrical circuit of fuel pump
    557 Low speed fuel pump circuit
    558 Electrical circuit of (EVR) electronic vacuum regulator
    563 High speed electric drive fan relay/circuit (HEDF) failure
    564 Electronic drive fan relay/circuit (EDF) failure
    565 Canister purge solenoid (CANP)
    566 3rd/4th gear solenoid (ATA)
    573 Electronic drive fan relay/circuit (EDF) failure
    574 High speed electronic drive fan relay/circuit (HEDF) failure
    575 Fuel pump circuit and/or inertia switch circuit
    576 Kick down switch (KDS) Repeat test
    577 Kick down switch (KDS) not activated during self test Repeat test
    583 Power to fuel pump fault
    612 4/3 switch failed open circuit
    613 4/3 switch failed open circuit
    614 3/2 switch short circuit
    615 3/2 switch failed short circuit
    621 Shift solenoid 1 circuit failed
    622 Shift solenoid 2 circuit failed
    624 EPC solenoid failure
    625 EPC solenoid circuit failure
    628 MLUS Failure
    629 Torque converter lock up clutch solenoid (LUS)
    634 Neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit failure
    635 Transmission temperature switch failure
    637 Transmission temperature switch failure
    639 TSS failure
    645 1st gear failure
    646 2nd gear failure
    647 3rd gear failure
    648 4th gear failure
    649 ETV failure
    651 ETV intermittent failure
    652 MLUS circuit failure
    653 Transmission control switch not activated during self test Repeat test
    998 Fault in ECT/ACT/MAF/TPR circuit
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2017
    Pizzaman5000 and denisond3 like this.
  10. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    4,552
    Likes Received:
    442
    Trophy Points:
    333
    Location:
    Russellville, Kentucky
    I just thought of something else. You might want to check the timing to be sure the timing belt hasn't skipped a tooth or two or hasn't lost any teeth. If it has jumped time don't worry about it, these are non interference engines so all you'll need to do is line up the timing marks and replace the timing belt.
  11. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA
    I'll start with the DPFE. Seems like the quickest, cheapest, easiest thing. Just gotta figure out what and where it is. Lol.
    That great to know there won't be catastrophic engine damage if the belt is shot.
  12. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    1,480
    Likes Received:
    446
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Central OH
    Fordman has a point on the timing belt, even though I'm pretty sure egr is involved. The can being retarded by a tooth can show up on #1, AND cause "excessive exhaust pressure".
    If you verify timing, throw the plastic cover and it's studs in the trash while you are there.

    The dpfe is on the firewall, kinda towards the passenger side, it has two little silicone hoses and iirc 3 wires.
  13. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA

    Thanks, I'll check it and check the timing too. Can't hurt.
  14. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,039
    Likes Received:
    2,773
    Trophy Points:
    563
    Location:
    south TX or northern VA
    I have had that silicone rubber hose disintegrate at the end of a couple of my Escorts that have EGR - which creates a vacuum leak. With my 94LX I also had occasional idling above 1200rpm. I replaced the EGR valve since it seemed stuck open a little. Normal idle after that.
    I like to keep the plastic timing belt covers; if someone is tossing one out, I might want to buy it.

    I double like that list of the codes! Thanks Fordman59
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
  15. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    1,480
    Likes Received:
    446
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Central OH

    I've got a couple covers you can have, I'll have to check for the studs.
  16. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    4,552
    Likes Received:
    442
    Trophy Points:
    333
    Location:
    Russellville, Kentucky
    I found that list on a Ford pickup forum. I don't remember what forum it was. I think it's the most complete list of Ford OBDI codes I've ever found. Some may not apply to our Escorts, but I still thought it'd be nice to have on the forum.
  17. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA
    car1.jpg I assume this is what I'm looking to take off and clean?
    zzyzzx likes this.
  18. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    1,480
    Likes Received:
    446
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Central OH
    That's the evr, the dpfe is to the left
    zzyzzx likes this.
  19. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Location:
    Abington, PA
    Going to clean it now. Thanks.
  20. Pizzaman5000

    Pizzaman5000 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    1,480
    Likes Received:
    446
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Central OH
    Rarely, the evr can "clog" there's an atmospheric vent in it, under the little cap on the evr is a little foam filter. If its VERY VERY clogged it can cause excessive egr flow. Probably not a factor.

    Edit: when I said clean the dpfe like 10 times, I meant ten lol. It's pure carbon with a tad of motor oil. I've heard of people using carb cleaner, but I think it's too harsh on plastic, so about 1/2 can of electronics cleaner is about right. If you haven't broken it yet, there's a little FRAGILE nipple on the bottom of the exhaust pressure sensor ("dpfe" depending on what your autoparts store calls it). The nipple is weak, the metal clamp thing is STRONG. Force it "UP, and out".
    If the egr valve is leaking, a clean dpfe will actually give you correct egr flow codes. Hopefully the dpfe sensor IS BAD.... If it's accurate... The cat is probably clogged :/
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
    zzyzzx likes this.

Share This Page