[Spiffy]

Needing some help on doing it; I'm in the process of modifying my dashboard in par to Vashspiegel's write up. I've got the passenger side ready to come out; but the drivers side is giving me issues; first: the headlight switch is causing a headache; my haynes manual isn't much help on removing dashboard components. Second: is there any list/diagram showing where all the bolts/screws are that hold it in?

Any help?

 

[marshpoprock]

Find the notch on the base of knob for the headlight switch. You'll need a small flat device to push the clip in to release the knob from the switch shaft. If it fails, pull really hard on the knob for the headlight switch. Careful not to knock yourself out when it does come off.

The base that is left is threaded to the switch itself.

Mainly for removing the dash, there's screws along the windshield, and bolts for the metal frame that the dash is attached to. A keen eye required to locate them.

 

[Spiffy]

Yeah, I've been spotting the metal frame bolts here and there, and cursing as I see the position in which they're located. Sounds like the bolts up next to the windshield will be a pain.

I'd say it's 95% out, I can't get past the ventilation lines. It's hung up and no matter how hard I pull or wiggle it won't come free.

 

[FordMan59]

If you will reach up under the dash and find the headlight switch there will be a button on it that releases the switch shaft from the switch. Just push the button in and pull the shaft out. If I remember right, the botton is on the side of the switch nearest the drivers side door. As stated before the base is threaded onto the switch itself.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

This needs to become a sticky post haste...with some how-to information for those who will eventually be doing the same.

 

[old86EXP]

A subject close to my heart. I've taken a number of dashes out in search of the prefect crack free dash. Here's how I do it. I don't know if it's the right or wrong way but it works for me.

1.) Remove the steering column. There's 4 bolts to drop it and one bolt on the joint. Once that's done pull the wheel out. If your going to put everything back in the car I always mark the joint and wheel so everything will line up again.

2.) Remove the pillar trim and kick panels. Disconnect the wire connectors going to the door.

3.) Remove the heater controls, wires and cables. This includes unplugging the the wires going to the heater blower motor. You have to remove some of the trim pieces to get the controls out.

4.) Remove the 3 bolts across the top of the dash. Here a use 2 or 3, 1/4" extensions so I can get some bend. You can't go strait at them.

5.) Remove all the remaining dash trim and instrument cluster. The speedo cable is easy just push up on the white clip and it comes right out. Remove the glove box as well.

6.) Remove the 4 bolts at the bottom of the dash. One at each side in the kicker panel area and one in the middle by the heater blower area. I think the 4th one is in the steeling column area. At this point the dash is free but it's not going to come out because of the dash wiring harness.

7.) Here's the key part of the removing the dash. Leave the wiring harness in the dash instead go under the hood and pull the connectors apart. There's a couple of grounds you need to remove as well. Then pull the whole thing into the car through the firewall. It comes out as one big bundle of wire still attached to the dash.

The dash should come out as one huge part with the wiring harness in place. The fuse box and everything comes with the dash. I've done this a number of times and I find it the easiest way to get a dash out. It takes me about hour to do it now.

I hope this helps.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Very nice writeup, Old...I used to watch my dad do that years ago, and he also swore to leave the wire harness attached...a detail I'd forgotten about.

 

[Spiffy]

Hmm, I wish I would have read this before I started; I searched all over FEOA and couldn't find anything, then I ventured to google but that obviously didn't end well. I took everything out that I could; but now it's getting hung up on the air inlet. I'm thinking it might just take some muscle, not sure yet.

I'll post results on whether I give up or not.

 

[Spiffy]

Well, dashboard is out; good god was my way unconventional and a PITA. Broke a few parts of it, not visible but enough to cause a headache later on.

I guess this is one of those things where I learned my lesson on my own; I don't think it was worth the work to pull out.

 

[marshpoprock]

; I don't think it was worth the work to pull out.

Unless you find a mint condition one to put back in!

 

[Spiffy]

If I had this much trouble to get mine out; I see myself ruining the 'mint' one. Either way I plan on hacking my dashboard up to do vash's mod.

 

[Spiffy]

Discovered a problem for myself too; after removal I was testing the lights. Headlights come on, brakelights, turn signals all work; however the gauges lights and parking lamps do not.

Parking lamps being both front and rear 'dim' lights. I sure do hope someone knows what the cause of that might be.

 

[marshpoprock]

Fuse?

 

[FordMan59]

Check to make sure you didn't pull one of the wires loose from the light switch connector/harness.

 

[old86EXP]

Next time I'm at my local Pick-A-Part I'll take another dash out and get some pictures of the key points. The problem is they'll have to be from my cell phone. No camera's allowed.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Then sneak one in They can't search your pockets for one, man.

 

[marshpoprock]

Never know what you'll find searching in some one else's pockets!

 

[Spiffy]

Well, I've discovered some other goodies. My right turn signal indicator (in the gauge cluster), also doesn't work.

Should be easy fixes; but damn I'm hoping they're easy.

 

[marshpoprock]

Should be just a 194 bulb.

 

[Spiffy]

Should be just a 194 bulb.

Assuming it's just the bulb that's causing me issues. I'm still more worried about parking lights and instrument lighting. And by worried I mean it's on my list of things that still need to get done.