[steve60tuesday]

Let's start with the good news... I bought some new headlight housings and just installed them on this 22-year-old car. I can't believe how clear they are! Really makes me wish my paint wasn't completely oxidized -- and that the garbage truck hadn't backed into my fender last week... or that my dashcam had recorded when that happened... or at least that I hadn't cancelled my collision coverage two years ago. Whatever... my headlights are like laser beams now, and that's awesome!

But... while I was figuring out how to get to these stupid headlights, I discovered that my outer CV boot has failed! Apparently, it's been pooping out grease for quite some time, because there is greasy poop everywhere down there. Luckily, the joint isn't making noise yet -- it's probably fine.

I'm wondering how the ZX2 experts would recommend repairing this problem -- I've never serviced a FWD drivetrain like this, and I don't have a repair manual. But I've done a bit of work on IFS 4wd pickups in the past, which at least also have CV shafts. I just don't know what the best approach is for the ZX2.

Is it easier or better to just replace the whole CV shaft assembly? If so:
-Are aftermarket CV shafts fine, or should I try to track down Motorcraft or used OEM?
-Will pulling the shaft drain the transaxle? Are there shaft seals to replace?

Or, is preferable to disassemble, clean, re-pack, and re-seal the CV joint with a new boot? And, most importantly, is it possible to do this in-place, without pulling the shaft from the vehicle? Otherwise I'd probably just replace the assembly.

I'll check the joint to make sure it's not worn out... and the bearings, ball joints, etc... But I'm looking for suggestions for which way to tackle the CV boot. And any other advice or insight you have for this project... in particular, what is the torque spec for the hub nut?

Thanks!


Oh -- forgot to mention, this is an '01, Auto, no ABS

 

[zzyzzx]

Just replace the whole axle with a new (not rebuilt) one.

 

[marclar]

pretty much all a/m are rebuilds in mexican dirt floor warehouses with chinese parts. I would buy 'new' if possible. last time I checked they were about 75$.. you will lose a bit of fluid but it wont drain it. there are seals which are typically recommended to replace with the axle... you CAN do the boot in the vehicle but its a pita.

 

[steve60tuesday]

Finally tackling this -- and thanks @zzyzzx and @marclar for the tips! I couldn't find an OEM CV axle, so I just bought the most-expensive "new" aftermarket I could find. Also swapping the control arm, ball joint, tierod ends etc. Meant to swap the struts too but apparently I forgot to order them.

This is my first time working on this type of vehicle. What the hell holds the ball joint to the spindle? The stud isn't threaded!!!

Is it really just clamped in to the spindle?

I guess the reason I'm posting is that it seems especially important to get the torque right... and I have no idea.

So, does anyone know the torque spec for:
- The balljoint clamp
- The spindle/axle nut
- The LCA bolts
- Tie rod ends

I would really appreciate it, thanks!

 

[marclar]

ya the knuckle is just 'clamped' to the bj. to be honest I have no idea what the proper torque is for those fasteners.... I always have done them by feel.. Im sure someone can chime in with the correct numbers if you cant find them...
bj clamp is typically 'tight with a 3/8 ratchet"
axle nut iirc is 180ft lbs
lca bolts probably in the 80 range...
tie rods, again tight with 3/8 ratchet. doesn't have to be super tight.

 

[Joey_Twowagons]

DIsclaimer: I am not a ZX2 expert.

I used to replace the boots on CV joints when they failed, but now just change the whole unit when it starts "clicking" loudly. However in this case I would keep the original CV assembly and put a new boot on it, because it is an original (i.e. high quality) part and as has been stated, rebuilt and even new units are not so good quality.
Even if you bought a Motorcraft part at the dealer, it is most likely not of the same quality as the original, sadly.
As for the nut, when I reuse original parts I just tighten it to the original location and restake it.

 

[4cylinder]

the ball joint is not held in by just clamping. The ball joint has a groove in it. The bolt which goes through the spindle is supposed to line up with that groove and keep it in place. Tightening the bolt will clamp down on it but that bolt is the important part. Make sure it is inserted far enough for the bolt to hold it in place

 

[99SseSPORT]

Replace it with the expensive ones from rock auto. The new ones. Do not buy reman ones.