Drivetrain - Cv joint | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
  1. Wash your hands and do not touch your face, keep it safe and clean. Long live Feoa!

Drivetrain Cv joint

Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by grocerygettin, Jan 31, 2014.

  1. grocerygettin

    grocerygettin Wagon life

    Messages:
    17
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Cv joint is making some nasty noises I've heard it's easier to just replace the whole axle not sure how to replace one someone help. Pictures help best
  2. LariRudi

    LariRudi FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    2,341
    Likes Received:
    219
    Trophy Points:
    313
    I can't give full answer, but for starters, YES, do the whole thing; replace it all; ONE piece. However for assistance for how to, let us know which one it is, passenger or driver side, model year, and automatic or manual shift..... I don't think that 1.8 or 1.9 matters, but let us know anyways.

    I"ve gotta leave soon and don't have time to "search", but there ARE comments in here about that. See up on the top left if a "search forum"? try "cv axle", or "replace axle", etc........... you'll get a head start that way, but I'm sure somebody else will respond.

    LarryR
    zzyzzx likes this.
  3. LariRudi

    LariRudi FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    2,341
    Likes Received:
    219
    Trophy Points:
    313
    OK, doing some fast searching I got 100's of "hits'.... using various combinations of "CV axle replace". Try this one for starters:

    https://www.feoa.net/threads/have-to-replace-axle-need-some-help.40222/

    And yes, we did it once [to do a clutch job] and the biggest hurdle for us was [1993 1.9 LX manual shift SW] the axle nut. BIG OBSTACLE, but knowing all of our experiences, you'll be nine steps ahead in knowing what to expect.

    [Edit; I've gotta run..... couple of last thoughts that I remember people struggling with.... that axle nut goes soooooo hard that people begin to think that perhaps it's reverse [LH] thread. No, it's NORMAL thread, meaning CCW to loosen, and CW to tighten. And people [me included] broke STRONG breaker bars to get it loose. One guy even took the car to a friendly garage that would use their air impact wrench to "loosen" it, then RE-tighten it enough to get home safely...... If you do this, of COURSE USE EVERY CAUTION, tho I've not heard of one coming off accidently.] Some people have invested in ELECTRIC Impact guns/wrenches for work like this. MAYBE you'll be lucky and it'll come off with reasonable ease. I'll look up the torque tonight so you can re-tighten it properly].

    And RE-tightening it when finished is very important, too.

    Good luck,

    LarryR
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2014
    zzyzzx likes this.
  4. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,163
    Likes Received:
    2,855
    Trophy Points:
    563
    Location:
    south TX or northern VA
    Let us know the year, the type (LX or GT), whether auto trans or 5-speed trans, and which side of the car. I might add that changing the entire cv axle assembly is definitely the way to go, and while you are at it, the other cv axle is likely just as old. I replace mine as soon as I see a rip in the boot, or even a lot of grease coming out.
    The driver's side axles are the harder ones to remove, due to the webs cast into the transaxle case on that side. The passenger side axle is easier to pry out of the transaxle, since the trans case on that side is nearly flat.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  5. grocerygettin

    grocerygettin Wagon life

    Messages:
    17
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    13
    It's a 95 lx wagon auto trans I need to repair sadly the driver side. I do own a 18v snap on impact!
    zzyzzx likes this.
  6. cklaubur

    cklaubur Former Escort Owner

    Messages:
    1,748
    Likes Received:
    41
    Trophy Points:
    298
    Location:
    Now in Mesa, AZ
    Axle replacement, for the most part, is just loosening the axle nut at the wheel hub, sliding it out of place, and popping the other end out of the transmission. However, that axle nut will be VERY tight, and there is a cir-clip that holds axle into the transmission. On my '97, I had to use a large breaker bar (24"? Maybe longer, I can't remember) to remove the axle nut. Basically, I ended up standing on the bar with the car on the ground (I'm a big guy, so imagine that picture!) and still had to bounce on it a couple of times to get it loose. Your 18V impact may not have the power.

    As for getting the other end out of the transmission, that takes a bit of work. Some people on here have had luck using prybars to pop it out. I personally have used the slide hammer and claw attachment AutoZone has available to loan out. The difficulty in using either tool is space.

    Casey
    zzyzzx likes this.
  7. fearthewagon

    fearthewagon FEOA Member

    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    68
    Location:
    Ohio
    <-- used a 200 ft-lb. 24v cordless impact and tons of PB blast. Driver side came off after a 1 hr soak (so the battery could be charged to full) in about 30 seconds. Passenger side was not as friendly. 2 days worth of PB soaking and it won't even budge, not even after being hit with a focused torch.

    Good luck! If using an impact, get the heaviest hitting one you can, 200 is even a bit light.
    Gamer92 likes this.
  8. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,163
    Likes Received:
    2,855
    Trophy Points:
    563
    Location:
    south TX or northern VA
    The oxy-acetylene torch is the tool to use - for quick intense heat, though its hard to imagine what would be harmed by overheating there.
  9. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    3,477
    Likes Received:
    1,013
    Trophy Points:
    313
    Location:
    Southern Indiana
    I got an electric one from harbor freight last year, and it is rated at 230. It removed the axle nut without issue in about 20 seconds, maybe less.
    fearthewagon likes this.
  10. fearthewagon

    fearthewagon FEOA Member

    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    21
    Trophy Points:
    68
    Location:
    Ohio
    Lucky you! The passenger side one my brother took over to our dad's house to see if his air-impact would have better luck. It didn't. That one had to be drilled, then they took a chisel and hammer to the drilled holes to "knock" the nut into unthreading. Eesh! I owe my dad a six-pack of beer for getting it off -- just in time for fathers' day!
  11. chestypuller

    chestypuller making the wifes commuter better

    Messages:
    1,008
    Likes Received:
    190
    Trophy Points:
    163
    Location:
    alaska
    which side is harder to do drivers or passangers?
  12. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

    Messages:
    3,477
    Likes Received:
    1,013
    Trophy Points:
    313
    Location:
    Southern Indiana
    Drivers side due to lack of room to get a tool to remove axle from trans
    zzyzzx likes this.
  13. chestypuller

    chestypuller making the wifes commuter better

    Messages:
    1,008
    Likes Received:
    190
    Trophy Points:
    163
    Location:
    alaska
    how do you seperate the engine from the trans on a automatic? do you have to pull them out the hood seperate or can u take them shafts off and pull it all out?
  14. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,163
    Likes Received:
    2,855
    Trophy Points:
    563
    Location:
    south TX or northern VA
    The automatic trans can come out by itself, leaving the engine in place - though supported with something holding it up.
    You can unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (like a flywheel but thinner) by working from inside the access hole in the middle of the oil pan. I always drop the catalytic converter to be able to do this. There are 4 nuts, 14mm socket needed, and I only use 6 point deep sockets, not a 12 point socket. And dont lose those nuts, they are an extra fine thread, like a 1.0mm pitch! Then ubolting the trans from the block, and pushing them about an inch apart - then wiggling/shaking/wobbling the trans while shoving a thin pry down between the front face of the torque converter and the flexplate, to get the t.c. to come out of the 'centering hole' in the end of the crankshaft. I do this with an engine hoist having the trans hanging from the hoist when Im shaking and wiggling the trans. On a 91-97 Escort, be careful to undo the cable from the throttle body to the transmission, so you dont kink or stretch it when you hoist the trans out.
    To be able to hoist the trans up and out you need to have the axles out, or if you cant get the driver side axle out - yank it apart, so only the inner CV casing is still stuck in the transmission. It then wont be sticking out far enough to keep the trans from coming out vertically up. This will require replacing that CV axle assembly, since trying to reuse a worn axle assembly isnt a good idea.
    I used to replace torn cv joint boots on my Dodge Omni's, because it was not too hard to get the out CV joint to separate into its halves. But on an Escort CV joint I have never been able to do it, in spite of trying pretty hard - and the service manual says the outer CV joint cant be 'serviced' that way. So I just buy new ones. I would buy rebuilt ones, but 'new' ones are just about the same price now.
    I have also hoisted out the automatic transmission along with the engine on a couple of the Escorts I fixed up; but only because I was going to be rebuilding both the trans and the engine. And I had the CV axles out of the transmission to do it. With my first Escort fix-up where I could not get the driver's side CV axle out, I removed the engine first, then pulled the transmission out - with the driver's side CV axle dangling from it.
    chestypuller likes this.
  15. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

    Messages:
    15,220
    Likes Received:
    1,232
    Trophy Points:
    463
    Location:
    Baltimore, MD USA
    A Breaker bar is more useful here.
  16. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,163
    Likes Received:
    2,855
    Trophy Points:
    563
    Location:
    south TX or northern VA
    I think a common event is that a mechanic would use his impact wrench to undo those hub nuts, and use the same impact wrench to tighten them up; likely resulting in them being overtightened.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  17. cajunscort96wagon

    cajunscort96wagon FEOA Member

    Messages:
    61
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    the poor mans way to unscrew an axle shaft nut... 1 1/4 6 point socket preferably 3/4 inch drive.... one matching breaker bar... one 4 foot cheater pipe that slides over the breaker bar handle... two jack stands... one to hold the car off the ground and the other to support the cheater pipe.... start the car and for the drivers axle put the car in reverse and hit the gas... its amazing how fast a puny 88 hp engine can twist that nut off........ for the passenger side put the car in 1st gear...... :p at least thats how i did it on my 96 wagon
    Berekhhnd likes this.
  18. Supersedona

    Supersedona FEOA Member

    Messages:
    269
    Likes Received:
    64
    Trophy Points:
    58
    I didn't have any trouble with mine and a normal impact, though the only bolt that has ever been rusty has been the thermostat housing.
    Getting the trans/engine combo out and in together was a pain with the mounting ears for the trans trying to get out the top. Is it manageable to drop out the bottom as trans only since I have to do a converter seal soon?
  19. cajunscort96wagon

    cajunscort96wagon FEOA Member

    Messages:
    61
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    yes you can drop the trans out the bottom but you have to remove the trans crossmember to do it... its also a great way to get to the tranny mounts and replace them while you have everything out.... work bench beats a creeper any day lol. Plus whil you have that side of the engine bay empty check your steering rack bushings... that driver side one is a pain with everything in place.
    zzyzzx and denisond3 like this.
  20. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,163
    Likes Received:
    2,855
    Trophy Points:
    563
    Location:
    south TX or northern VA
    Supersedona: When you replace the torque converter seal, you might want to get the "seal retainer", which has 3 legs that get clamped under the bolts holding the seal mount into the bell housing.
    Sorry I dont know the URL or ph# of a source for the seal retainer. I would look on ebay for sellers offering parts for automatic transmissions, and send them an 'ebay-eamil' asking if they have the retainer for the F4EAT.

    Unless your automatic transmission has been rebuilt by someone who drilled the two holes into the seal housing (from the back side after the case halves are separated) to relieve the fluid pressure behind the seal, the seal may work its way out; without the retainer.
    The shift kit describes drilling those holes. The instructions in the Service Manual dont mention it.

Share This Page