[Olga]

Hey, all!

My 93 1.9 LX wagon isn't starting. It's cranking just fine, but I don't hear the fuel pump priming with the key in the "on" position, and it doesn't start.

I'm trying to figure out if this is actually a problem with the fuel pump, or if the problem might be happening earlier in the system. I'm kind of suspecting that there is no power going into the fuel pump circuit at the very beginning of the power supply. Here's why:

1) My Heynes seems to suggest that the "Fuel Inj." fuse inside the fuse box under the hood by the battery tray should be hot at all times, but I removed the fuse and hooked up my multi-meter to the pins that go into this fuse, and I couldn't measure any voltage. Am I doing this wrong? This is what I measured:

• "Cooling fan" relay had three pins that are hot at all time, one has no voltage.
• "Fuel inj.", "Head" and "Cooling fan" fuses all have no voltage with either key off or key on.
• "BTN" fuse has one pin that has battery voltage with key off, and 7.5V with key on.
• I didn't check the "main fuse" because I wasn't sure if it was safe to unscrew that one.

2) I tried to jumper the fuel pump by grounding the test connector in the engine bay. This should force the computer to turn the fuel pump on at all times (says my Heynes). That didn't happen, so it seems that either the pump or the electrical circuits that activate the pump are bad. BUT: I tried to run a KOEO test, and nothing happened with that either. I heard no relays clicking and got no codes, so it seems that the test connector might not get any power either?

Everything else seems absolutely normal: Lights work, the radio works, seat belts work, dash lights work, the car cranks strongly.

Am I testing this right?

What might cut off voltage to the "fuel inj." fuse AND to the test connector???

I'd be incredibly grateful for any input. Electrical issues are always a bit nerve wracking for me. I just don't seem to quite get how to troubleshoot them...

___

EDIT FOR THOSE RUNNING INTO SIMILAR PROBLEMS:

My issue was a blown 15A "Engine" fuse in the fuse panel inside the cabin (driver's side under the dash board). Then the question is: What's blowing that fuse? I personally found a short in the fan relays under the air intake, but to my knowledge, it could be a short anywhere in the ignition circuit, so almost anywhere. And there could probably be a number of other issues causing the engine fuse to blow?

 

[marclar]

sounds like you could have an ignition switch issue if there is no power to anything. that is the only thing in relation to both circuits. pump is controlled by the pcm, and is dependant on an rpm signal.

 

[Olga]

Huh! I'm actually VERY curious about that ignition switch!

Here's what I've found so far:

These are my lo speed and high speed cooling fan relays. Pretty fried... They caused the 15A engine fuse in the fuse panel inside the cabin to trip. That's what caused the car to not start (and the fuel pump to not prime).

I think these have actually been sitting there melted like this for a while. They have blown the fan power relay in the under hood fuse box a few months ago, and I didn't think do look at these relays here at the time to find the cause for the blown fan power relay (nothing ever happened to the 40A cooling fan fuse - what a stupid design!). The fan just fired back up when I installed a new fan relay in the fuse box, and I thought I was done with that issue back then. Some of the cables of that blue relay are exposed, and they must have only now given me a short in the circuit.

Once I taped the cables to isolate them from one another and put in a new 15A engine fuse the car stated right up and I could finally drive it back home.

Here's the thing, though: Now it WON'T STOP running!

I've actually had this problem before (the car not stopping to run). This was just before the fan blew that relay in the under hood fuse box, and probably around the time these fan relays here melted. Back then, I got a new ignition lock and switch assembly, because I thought the lock was mechanically incapable of turning the car off, but now I'm thinking the problem may have been something else, and is most likely connected to whatever made these relays fry the way they did, since the same issues are now again showing up at the very same time. I don't think that would be coincidence!?!

I had pulled that little white/yellow cable from the lo speed fan relay years ago to force the fan to run at all times. I'm thinking that may have put too much load on these relays? But would that actually MELT them like that?

It seems like I have to figure out 2 things here, which I believe to be connected somehow:

• What caused those relays to melt?
• What causes the ignition switch to not turn the vehicle off?

And so far my biggest question resulting from these questions is: Could these relays possibly draw so much energy through the system that the ignition switch coil would somehow stay energized even with the key off? OR is there something else cycling too much energy through the circuit that would prevent the the ignition switch from closing AND melt these relays?

 

[denisond3]

I had six 2nd gen escorts, and had to replace the ignition switch (just the electrical part, not the key-lock part) in five of them. So a bad or spastic ignition switch is not uncommon. The fan relays being melted could be from the fan running 100% of the time as it does if the a.c. is still working. The a.c. wasnt working on any of mine, and none of mine had melted relays as shown in your photo.

There is a thin flat metal part running between the key-lock part of the ignition switch and the electrical part of the ignition switch. On one of my escorts that flat metal strip broke - when the engine was running. So turning the ignition switch didnt do anything. It happened to my daughter when I was out of town, and she could only, disconnect the negative battery cable to stop the engine. When I was back at home, that was one of the ignition switches that I had to replace in its entirety. The flat metal strip was not replaceable by itself.

 

[Olga]

I had six 2nd gen escorts, and had to replace the ignition switch (just the electrical part, not the key-lock part) in five of them. So a bad or spastic ignition switch is not uncommon. The fan relays being melted could be from the fan running 100% of the time as it does if the a.c. is still working. The a.c. wasnt working on any of mine, and none of mine had melted relays as shown in your photo.

There is a thin flat metal part running between the key-lock part of the ignition switch and the electrical part of the ignition switch. On one of my escorts that flat metal strip broke - when the engine was running. So turning the ignition switch didn't do anything. It happened to my daughter when I was out of town, and she could only, disconnect the negative battery cable to stop the engine. When I was back at home, that was one of the ignition switches that I had to replace in its entirety. The flat metal strip was not replaceable by itself.

Thank you so much for your thoughts!

It's interesting to hear that your daughter's car actually had an ignition switch fail in the ON position. I was suspecting that this may not actually be possible, because it would mean that the coil in the switch stays energized, so then the problem would have to lie elsewhere, and would be whatever keeps the switch energized.

The thing is: I JUST replaced the whole ignition switch assembly because of the very same problem, and from what I have read here, it seems rare for this switch to fail in the ON position, so it seems really unlikely that this would happen twice within a few months. This makes me think that replacing it didn't fix the actual problem. I also wonder why the ignition switch/circuit is failing both times exactly at the same time that I am having shorts at the fan relays. There has got to be a connection!

This is what happened: I drive to work, the car won't turn off, I turn the key back and forth (putting some strain on the starter motor), get the car to turn off, come back to drive home after work and the car won't turn on until I discover the relays and the blown engine fuse. I tape the relays, change the fuse and drive home, but again can't turn the car off. And both of these issues had come up last fall at the very same time, as well. There has got to be some connection here?!

Should pulling the negative battery cable actually stop the engine? I tried that, and my car kept running without any issues. I thought the alternator might keep it running, but maybe that is the actual problem here? Is there any way that something keeps the circuit energized when it shouldn't? Could there be some kind of a feedback loop from the alternator to the ignition switch that keeps the circuit open?

 

[Mark Eric Roth]

I hate to say this, but when I see something like your melted relays, I strongly suspect there was some melting somewhere else in your wiring as well. Start with testing the melted relays for shorts, then follow the wires from the shorts to their destinations looking/feeling for any melted insulation. Most likely, any other damage will be at a connection, but it would be wise to check the entire length of wire just in case. The EVTM would be handy here too.

As far as what caused the relays to melt, have you checked your fan? Having it run all the time may have made it wear out prematurely. Disconnect the battery and try turning the fan by hand, it should turn very freely. if it offers any resistance or make noise it is probably drawing more current than it is supposed to. Last summer, I realized that Mr. Whites fan was not running so I checked it and found it had seized! I replaced the motor and thought all was well until one hot day when I was going to a job interview and it overheated again! Turned out that the extra current draw from the seized fan had caused the contacts in the High speed fan relay to burn out so just when it needed fan to turn fast it instead stopped!

Our first Escort, a '96, protected its fan fuse by letting the fan power relay blow first.

 

[Olga]

I hate to say this, but when I see something like your melted relays, I strongly suspect there was some melting somewhere else in your wiring as well. Start with testing the melted relays for shorts, then follow the wires from the shorts to their destinations looking/feeling for any melted insulation. Most likely, any other damage will be at a connection, but it would be wise to check the entire length of wire just in case. The EVTM would be handy here too.

As far as what caused the relays to melt, have you checked your fan? Having it run all the time may have made it wear out prematurely. Disconnect the battery and try turning the fan by hand, it should turn very freely. if it offers any resistance or make noise it is probably drawing more current than it is supposed to. Last summer, I realized that Mr. Whites fan was not running so I checked it and found it had seized! I replaced the motor and thought all was well until one hot day when I was going to a job interview and it overheated again! Turned out that the extra current draw from the seized fan had caused the contacts in the High speed fan relay to burn out so just when it needed fan to turn fast it instead stopped!

Our first Escort, a '96, protected its fan fuse by letting the fan power relay blow first.

Thank you for thinking this through with me!

My EVTM actually arrived tonight, and I will spend some time figuring out the circuits, wires, and connections this weekend (and probably beyond - electrical stuff kind of bends my brain cells).

Can you help me understand my next steps? Would I do a Voltage drop test to find other problems with the circuit?

I'll definitely make sure to test that the fan is running smoothly.

What you're saying makes a lot of sense to me. I absolutely suspect some other issues with this circuit, and am kind of suspecting/hoping/fearing whatever else is melted or shortened in the circuit might also cause the car to not stop running. For now I'm wondering if the circuit may be getting electricity not from the ignition switch but from some melted connectors in the under hood fuse box instead? This is just pure fantasy right now. I have no idea if this is at all possible. I just can't believe the ignition switch would have failed in the on position twice and always exactly when these melted fan relays showed up one way or another.

These relays actually DID blow the fan power relay a few months ago, as well!

 

[Mark Eric Roth]

Right now, I don't think doing any voltage drop tests will show anything you need to know right now, you need to find an out and out short circuit. Continuity tests would be more appropriate right now. Study the EVTM to see where your shorted relay leads cross engine run wires or share connectors and check for unwanted voltage there. But first follow my previous advice.

One day I was driving my '56 Ford and the keys fell out of the switch, which was no surprise, both the keys and the switch were very worn. When I reached my destination, I picked up the key to put it in the switch but there was no switch, it had fallen apart! I had to disconnect the battery, which does not stop the engine on old cars, and pull the coil wire out of the distributer, which does. Surprisingly, a nearby Pep Boys actually had a few of the switches hanging on a rack, complete with FoMoCo keys!

 

[marclar]

voltage drop will only tell you if the circuit is active and consuming current. as mark said, continuity and short detection is the next priority. although this is an extremely common issue on these cars, its not usual for there to be much more upstream damage. in this situation looking at the carnage, it got HOT HOT HOT and maybe even see some evidence of flame. you will want to cut into the harness and check for further damage.

 

[Mark Eric Roth]

I was having some more thoughts on this, I hope some more knowledgeable Tech type could prove me out or disprove me.

Rather than chasing down the wires looking for a short, how about just bypassing them with new wires? For the non stop engine, since the ignition switch is such a PIA to get to, tap into the wire that goes to the coil base as close to the ignition switch as possible and run it directly to the plug at the coil base? On a '96 (according to my '96 EVYM, the only one I have) this would bypass 4-5 suspect connectors, and if that doesn't stop the the engine when the ignition switch is turned off, Olga can put an on/off rocker or toggle switch in that wire. That will get her Escort back into service until a proper repair an be made and at the same time be a sneaky anti theft device.

Any thoughts?