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Discussion Starter #1
Car threw a CEL, code P0455 (gross EVAP leak). 1998 Escort SE, all stock. Low miles, and, so far, very high-maintenance.

Found the plastic where the gas cap screws on cracked:



So...what's the name of the part I need to replace? Can I get one from Autozone/Napa, or am I stuck with the dealer? Or a junkyard?

And, any guesses how this broke? My two thoughts are that I either hit something when I was changing the rear springs shortly before the code showed up, or somehow forced the fuel pump nozzle sideways and cracked it.

Thanks!
 

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I would doubt autozone or napa would have it. If you have a junkyard nearby that would probably be your best bet. Are you the only person that drives the car? My guess would be somebody forced the pump nozzle in there and cracked it.
 

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Yea only way to get it is junkyard (and pray its in new condition) or ebay. Possible the dealership but they are expensive.

The only thing the auto stores have that i have seen is a 2 foot piece of gas hose that you have to cut to fit and make work its a real pain in the butt (mostly because its straight and ridged) and cost like $90.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
98escortkid said:
I would doubt autozone or napa would have it. If you have a junkyard nearby that would probably be your best bet. Are you the only person that drives the car? My guess would be somebody forced the pump nozzle in there and cracked it.
I'm the mostly the only driver, yeah. Dad borrowed the car and I think did fill the tank once, but he and I are both pretty careful. The owner until July took the car to a full-serve station, but the light didn't come on until maybe two or three weeks ago.

Like I said, I'm wondering if I maybe whacked something when I was fighting to get the strut bolts out. :?
 

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john112deere said:
I'm the mostly the only driver, yeah. Dad borrowed the car and I think did fill the tank once, but he and I are both pretty careful. The owner until July took the car to a full-serve station, but the light didn't come on until maybe two or three weeks ago.

Like I said, I'm wondering if I maybe whacked something when I was fighting to get the strut bolts out. :?
I can assure you it probally wasn't you. Fords filler necks I have found as well as heard are notorious for cracking and loosing pressure.

You will lose minimal fuel because of it though. it's mostly for emit ions testing. Smog test or anything like that. They would require it to be fixed to pass at least here in CA they do.

Here is a chaper one i found on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99-00 ... ccessories
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's actually why I'm fixing it is emissions testing.

Moving to a different state, and will need to get it re-inspected. All I really need is the light to be out, but now that I've found the problem, I think I should fix it. I don't like mickey-mousing stuff on my car.
 

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john112deere said:
That's actually why I'm fixing it is emissions testing.

Moving to a different state, and will need to get it re-inspected. All I really need is the light to be out, but now that I've found the problem, I think I should fix it. I don't like mickey-mousing stuff on my car.
They will actually check the tanks pressure to see what it holds..

Quick cheap fix should be to wrap the hose in tape Black electrical generally works best because its resistant to oil. and just take the neg battery terminal off for a hour or two to reset the code. this will allow you to pass your test.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some states may actually pressure-test the tank.

Massachusetts plugs into the diagnostic port and and checks for codes. The place I used to go in Maine told me he'd give me a sticker on my pickup even if the light was lit, so long as it seemed to be running OK.

Vermont (the next state I'll be living in), I believe all they require is that the light not be it.
 

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You call that one on ebay cheap!? When the filler neck on my wagon rusted through I got an almost new one at the u-pull for $4. Dealer would have wanted $250+ for a new one. Oddly enough, my CEL never came on.
 

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madmatt2024 said:
You call that one on ebay cheap!? When the filler neck on my wagon rusted through I got an almost new one at the u-pull for $4. Dealer would have wanted $250+ for a new one. Oddly enough, my CEL never came on.
I didnt say it was cheap, though cheaper than at the dealer or buying a new aftermarket one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally got around to fixing this. No salvage yards would sell me a used part, as they're all rusty around here, so I ended up with a new one. Local dealership gave me a pretty good price, and I didn't have to wait like I would have if I ordered it online.

Once I started taking it apart, the reason for the crack became obvious- the very top of the steel neck was rotten to where it was basically gone, leaving no structural support for the plastic. The rest of the neck was just slight surface rust, but I guess the plastic shield didn't protect the very top from spray off the tire.


I busted the bolt that holds the metal tube to the car trying to take it out. Wired it up with mechanic's wire (baling wire). Anybody think I really need to go to the trouble of drilling it out and putting it together right?
 

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Yes you do. The mechanics wire will rub any paint or coating off the tube and it will start to rust right there. Not to mention that the wire will rust off after one season.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
madmatt2024 said:
Yes you do. The mechanics wire will rub any paint or coating off the tube and it will start to rust right there. Not to mention that the wire will rust off after one season.
That's about what I figured. I doubt I'll keep this car long enough for rust on the tube to become an issue, but that wire won't last long at all.

As long as those are the only concerns, I'll wait until I can borrow a heated garage in a few weeks, I guess. Sand paper and spray paint will fix any damage to the tube, and the wire will hold until then.

Thanks.
 
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