Coolant temp switch (fan)
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Turbo, of course. Engine type does not specify what degree, its just proven that vehicles run better at a steady operating temp of 180-190* NOT ABOVE. Even after speaking with a fluid dynamics tech on this, he agreed vehicles operate better at a lower temp than factory. Adding a turbo will raise it into the danger zone of 205+ when in boost and just by having another heat source.
Its the same reason gear oil is in the trans now instead of ATF. Fluid dynamics and shock load.
There is an oil cooler installed currently with a 190* thermostat in the cooler assembly. Since were using 10w 30, there will be no issues with the temp of either the engine coolant or oil temp abiding by fluid dynamics.
To go into even more detail, consistent revving is and will raise the temp above the threshold that were entailing and during track days at 60+ temp the oil and coolant temp will ride right in the 190* region.
As most of you know, heat is the enemy. Doing this can even go as far as reducing cylinder temps and giving us a larger margin for reducing and eliminating deto, even with a distributor.
Road course car, anyone?
Its the same reason gear oil is in the trans now instead of ATF. Fluid dynamics and shock load.
There is an oil cooler installed currently with a 190* thermostat in the cooler assembly. Since were using 10w 30, there will be no issues with the temp of either the engine coolant or oil temp abiding by fluid dynamics.
To go into even more detail, consistent revving is and will raise the temp above the threshold that were entailing and during track days at 60+ temp the oil and coolant temp will ride right in the 190* region.
As most of you know, heat is the enemy. Doing this can even go as far as reducing cylinder temps and giving us a larger margin for reducing and eliminating deto, even with a distributor.
Road course car, anyone?
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Like I said, this isn't an old carbed V8. Newer cars are ment to run at normal operating temps which is usally around 195-210 depending on the car. Escort GT BP and BPT motors run at 210. So why do you need to run it so cold?tturnpaw said:
Are you talking about the factory oil cooler or did you add in a second one?tturnpaw said:
The difference between old and new is only combustion chambers, and injection types. All designs are the cousins of one another. An internal combustion engine is an internal combustion engine. Again this is for high revving and reliability.
Metals will fatigue at their own rate of heat cycles. The larger the heat cycle, the more fatigue and less reliability. As far as friction is concerned, more heat is not a positive. That will take out all tolerances and the rings specifically.
As far as the lubrication factor, so long as its within the oils designed viscosity (which is a large range starting at 170*) the less heat the better. Why do you think drag cars are always shut off? Also, you want to run the least amount of viscosity within its regions of lubrication and consistency.
Factory engines are factory engines. OBDI vehicles with turbochargers are limited with tuning and are even prehistoric as far as turbocharging and reliability is concerned. Again 400bhp out of an Evo mr ix was not possible (with reliability) out of a 2.0 liter with OBDI vehicles.
Heat and lubrication are critical, most importantly lubrication. Heat is the next crucial point but only if it complies with lubrication.
I took out the factory "cooler" (more like a sustain-er) and replaced it with an aftermarket one, and relocated the oil filter and we use a mustang style oil filter for the time being until we upgrade to a canton on the racecar. Also, reliability and consistency are added with a larger oil capacity.
Metals will fatigue at their own rate of heat cycles. The larger the heat cycle, the more fatigue and less reliability. As far as friction is concerned, more heat is not a positive. That will take out all tolerances and the rings specifically.
As far as the lubrication factor, so long as its within the oils designed viscosity (which is a large range starting at 170*) the less heat the better. Why do you think drag cars are always shut off? Also, you want to run the least amount of viscosity within its regions of lubrication and consistency.
Factory engines are factory engines. OBDI vehicles with turbochargers are limited with tuning and are even prehistoric as far as turbocharging and reliability is concerned. Again 400bhp out of an Evo mr ix was not possible (with reliability) out of a 2.0 liter with OBDI vehicles.
Heat and lubrication are critical, most importantly lubrication. Heat is the next crucial point but only if it complies with lubrication.
I took out the factory "cooler" (more like a sustain-er) and replaced it with an aftermarket one, and relocated the oil filter and we use a mustang style oil filter for the time being until we upgrade to a canton on the racecar. Also, reliability and consistency are added with a larger oil capacity.
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It's not the engine heat you need to worry about, it's the air fuel mix and exhaust gas tempature when you turbocharge. If you got that set up right then it will run the normal 210 all day with no problems. OBD who cares, I run Standalone Engine Management and run factory fan setting with no issues.
But whatever, it's your car do what you want.
But whatever, it's your car do what you want.
Weve got a stinger ems stand alone also but that doesnt change the fact that we want to run a lower temp. We also have both a zeitronix wideband with datalogging and an egt gauge. When this engine gets put in something rwd, were going for 650whp.
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If you really, really want a lower temp the just pull out the T-stat and ground out the wire going to the fan temp switch. Then the fan will be on all the time and the car will never warm up. If you had a real EMS then you could just program the fan to come on at any temp you wanted like me.
I still need a sensor that will fit the thread pattern. The autometer one we have wont fit, which led us to this switch idea. I want the factory gauge to work and have a seperate lead to the fan or ecu.
We most likely wont have a thermostat in at the track anyway. But considering this is still a street car there will be one installed.
We most likely wont have a thermostat in at the track anyway. But considering this is still a street car there will be one installed.
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Wait a minute.... I just looked up the stinger and it can control the fan. Why don't you just wire it so you can program the fan on/off temp and forget this fan temp switch nonsense. All the factory fan wireing is pretty stand alone. It should just be a simple one wire hook up from the fan temp switch wire to a PWM output. Done! program fan on/off temp. You got stand alone EMS dammit, hook it up right.
haha, yeah, but heres the issue. We just spent $1100 total for this stand alone and a coil driver etc, and we can only run 250whp safely? Its nonsense in its own, im not into building a car that has transmission problems. Our plan was to install this engine into a mazda pickup and get a T5 bell housing made and run it about 650whp. Take our stock engine, throw our turbo setup on that, and have 250whp daily driver.
Most likely were going to run an emanage ultimate instead. Its cheaper, and we can have a dd and a race car at the same time. We dont have the cash to throw down on gearsets for the G series trans for a daily driver. All in all, if were going to build it, its getting built.
Most likely were going to run an emanage ultimate instead. Its cheaper, and we can have a dd and a race car at the same time. We dont have the cash to throw down on gearsets for the G series trans for a daily driver. All in all, if were going to build it, its getting built.
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