Discussion in 'Tech & Repair' started by zzyzzx, Apr 4, 2019.
Be really careful at this step.
I was wondering if I could pop the dipstick out of the holder to make it easier thanks.
Now I'm down to just disconnecting the fuel line from the larger of the two connectors (the one that uses the 5/8 size tool).
My fingers are raw from many attempts so far. Normally this is a pain. Usually I can get pliers over the whole thing to get the disconnect tool to slide in, but here I can not.
The tool that I am using is metal and looks like this:
OK, got the fuel lines disconnected! The two head bolts closest to the broken one were really dirty near the spot where the broken one broke. I assume that I should line the floor under the engine before I remove it. I got a large pan there now, but I assume that it's still going to make a mess.
The factory service manual mentions something about removing a starter motor wiring clip that's connected to the intake manifold. I didn't see this mentioned anywhere on Youtube..Does this makes sense to anyone? There I think is still something causing it to not want to come out. It would be in the driver's side back area most likely.
So should I remove the dipstick completely?
I got it out of the bracket and removed the top nut.
It's unclear how I am going to reinstall it with the dipstick in place.
Cant help with the dipstick question. In each case I was intending to pull the block out and take the oil pan off. At that point I could hammer a drill bit into the dipstick hole from the bottom, to push the dipstick out. In one or two cases I got it out by carefully rotating it and pulling up. I think the drill bit size was 23/64ths. I use a brass hammer to avoid damaging the drill bit or the hammer.
The way you reinstall, is with the dipstick either removed from the block, or by carefully putting the manifold back on, then putting the springy bracket back on, tightening the nuts on the studs, and lastly forcing the upper part of the dipstick back into the springy clamp. Like I said, I always put the dipstick back in after putting the intake manifold on, and having tightened up 6 or 7.
As for making a mess under the motor - yes, but I work outside on gravel. So the oily mess just soaks in.
What is it that doesnt want to come off at the driver's side back? Besides the 7 nuts holding the intake manifold on, there is the bracket holding the temp sensors on the metal tube that runs to one of the heater hoses - the heater core inlet side. And the intake manifold may require separating the manifold gasket. You might need to disconnect the cable that runs from the throttle 'disc' to the transmission. I dimly recall the need to disconnect the heavy cable and the small cable going to the starter motor solenoid, and gthe wire to the oil pressure sensing switch.
OK, I got it out. The thing that was binding was something for the CPS sensor. There was a clip for it. Guess the FSM was wrong. Anyway. I am really not seeing anything wrong so far except maybe that the head bolts came loose. I will work on some more pictures but here is what I have so far:
Is this indicative of a leaking oil pressure sensor:
This is the spot where the broken bolt was. I got it out using a plumbing wrench:
What do you think? Am I right?
I know I still need to clean everything, check to see if anything warped, and take some pictures of the clean stuff and upload those for your review and criticism, but for now, what do you think?
Existing head gasket has Fel-Pro part numbers on it. Presumably Permatorque is really just a marketing term.
Was this headgasket the same one that came with rebuilt engine?
Yes. It's the one that Jasper installed.
Still cleaning up stuff. Will post more pictures of that when I have completed that. Anyway, what do you guys think of this PDF from MAHLE:
Wow, how did you find that Mahle article? It's always interesting to hear information specifically about the CVH engines.
I'll try to copy and pasted it here for convenience, and in case it disappears from its original location.
I'm not sure how I found it. I downloaded the PDF, when I went later to look for the link, I had to look through my downloads, then found a link to the original.
Anyway, is there a good way to clean up the spark plug wells now that I have the cylinder head off? I had a previous valve cover leak that I'd like to clean up completely. I'm wondering if I should just remove the spark plugs and use a pressure washer around that area.
Picture of broken bolt, with some good ones for comparison:
This is what the head gasket looks like cleaned. It may not be obvious as to where the leakage was. It's in the lower right of this next picture:
Cleaned the valve cover mating surface:
I am not sure how I am going to clean this up, but this is what it looks like now:
Recommend me a method to clean up the exhaust manifold mating surface as well!
I only took this picture of the casting number as a reference:
This is the part of the engine block where it was leaking. This has not been cleaned up much:
The spark plug wells seem very deep, but each one has a passage that exits down below the line of the plugs. They show up in one of your photos. Just using a towel with solvent on it ti wipe these clean would be good. I also put a thread tap the same size as the spark plugs (14mm-1.25 I think) down each hole, to clean up all the crud at the bottom of the hole. I do this even if the head is still mounted on the block. I dont worry about little thread chips; I think they get blown out when the engine starts.
I DO put a tiny amount of an antiseize compound onto the plug threads, and I use a torque wrench to make sure I dont over-tighten them.
The location where you say the leak was on your headgasket is the same area where I saw signs of rust (black rust, not red rust) on most of the Escort engines I worked on. In the case of three of the blocks, I had the machinist mill off a few thou to give me a shiny clean surface to the block. This of course requires taking the block out and to the machine shop.
For the exhaust manifold surface on the head, I would just use a long flat file, to clean up the loose stuff. This is easier if all of the studs are unscrewed to be out of the way. That is the same way I would clean up the intake manifold surface on the head. I also used a flat fire to scrub away the loose corrosion on the two areas of the intake manifold where they are covering the openings into the water jacket. With the new intake gasket, I only use a Permatex RTV Ultra Black slime coating around those two openings, not on other areas of the intake manifold.
Now that I have been staring at the pictures, yes it's obvious that there is a drain there. It's also quite possible that my oil leaks are at the oil pressure sensor, and the valve cover right above that spark plug on the left side.
I should be able to do this with the block in the car:
I ran a tap into the block bolt holes. That went fine, plus it's not warped. It's unclear as to how far down I should run the tap though.
Run it all the way down until it bottoms out to loosen/clean the carbon and oil, then spray with brake cleaner to flush it out, followed by air if you have it. Since the first 1/2" of the tap is tapered, it won't clean every thread to the bottom. The bolts don't go that deep anyways.
Separate names with a comma.