Engine - Coolant leak into the exhaust manifold | Page 7 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Engine Coolant leak into the exhaust manifold

Discussion in 'Tech & Repair' started by zzyzzx, Apr 4, 2019.

  1. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I clamp the studs in my shop vise @ turn the nut with a box end wrench; if the nuts still wont unscrew I heat them to orange with my oxy0acetylene torch. I then install the studs first, using antiseize compound of course, and put the nuts on also with antiseize. I doubt it matters much whether they are left on the stud or not.
    The problem with using stainless steel is that you shouldnt use stainless steel studs, and stainless nuts. They dont like to live together. Stainless studs in an aluminum threaded hole can come out taking some aluminum with them from the head; a term called "galling".


    With the alternator out isnt it possible to get s deep socket onto the nut on the extreme left of the exhaust manifold? I dont think I have to remove the accessory bracket, though I did remove it most of the times I was going to hoist an engine/transmission up and out.

    I hope you are using 6 point sockets on those exhaust manifold nuts/studs.
  2. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Yes, using 6 point sockets!
    Will probably throw away my old 12 point ones at some point when made in USA 6 point high visibility sockets become available.

    Got the stuck stuff out of the socket.

    If I end up using regular steel studs, would stainless bolts on them present any potential issue?
  3. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Do you think that an etorx socket on the end of one of those exhaust manifold bolts would get it out?
  4. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Stainless nuts will work fine the normal steel studs.

    You used the phrase 'manifold bolts'. Mine all came with manifold studs, so I have no experience with manifold bolts on an Escort. My personal experience is that the amount of rusting-away results in the torx heads on the studs being totally useless.
    They probably worked fine when the robots were assembling things at the factory.
  5. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Nope!
    I can get a 1/4" drive torx socket, with an extension. Would you expect that to work?
    I would expect a 3/8" drive torx socket with a wobble extension to maybe work.


    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2019
  6. Swift

    Swift FEOA Donator

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    What about deep well with a wobble and just get the nut off.
    Most all of my studs came out when just trying to take the nut off.
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  7. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Deep well extends past the accessory bracket.
  8. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I agree with swift. I never try to get the torx part of the stud to turn, must remove the nut, and if the stud comes ouit (which it usually does) I separate the nut from the stud using my shop vise; and torch set if needed.

    Anyway, I usually have the accessory bracket removed by the time I am ready to take the manifold off.
  9. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I was thinking that the worst case was that I would strip the torx end, or maybe break the stud part at the nut.


    Replacing the lower radiator hose is going to be even easier than I was expecting.
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  10. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Got that exhaust bolt out. Just used a long 13mm 6 point socket at a funny angle and it worked OK. Gasket fell down when I pulled the manifold forward. Not sure how I am going to install a new gasket there now, unless I completely remove the manifold, or something???
  11. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Is this oil leak pattern telling you anything?
    If it matters, the actual oil amount lost is at the nusiance level.
    [​IMG]
  12. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I spent so much time today just removing the splash shield AND running a tap through were the splash shield bolts go through!
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  13. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    The oil leak could either be from the front main seal, or from the oil pan gasket. Not sure I would even both to try and fix it. I think I would get a new sealing ring for the drain plug while I had it out. Dorman makes them I imagine.

    If the exhaust manifold gasket fell down, it must have been pretty disintegrated. The new gasket should go over the studs, i.e. there would be 7 or 8 little holes that should have been supporting the old gasket. If you dont want to get the manifold far enough off to slide the new gasket over the studs, you could just slice it to fit in place.
  14. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    How much oil are you losing?
  15. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Not much. I think that I am adding a whole quart of oil maybe twice over my 7500 oil change interval. Given the mileage on the engine, I assume that almost all of that is being burnt in the engine. Probably not worth fixing. Will post a picture when I get the timing belt off. But it looked clean there when I put the timing belt two December's ago. Yes I checked the oil pan bolts.
  16. rbailin

    rbailin FEOA Member

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    Dorman 03411 exhaust stud kit: 10 studs (with hex end instead of torx), 10 torq nuts.

    $8 at Autozone. Use lotsa antiseize.
  17. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    That only covers the 5 shorter exhaust studs. What about the 3 longer ones?
    Or is it assumed that I can reuse those?

    Any idea what the difference is between 03411 and 03411B?
  18. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    The longer exhaust manifold studs can certainly be re-used. Thats what I have done with all of mine.
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  19. rbailin

    rbailin FEOA Member

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    I didn't know the 2G had different sized studs. Dorman carries a lot of exhaust stud kits. 03419B is also M8-1.25, but longer: 68.5mm (vs 56 mm).

    03411B is boxed, the other is carded. (Note: 03419B is not similar to 03419.)
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  20. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    These are some of the exhaust manifold bolts.

    Going from left to right:
    Exhaust heat shield. M6-1.0 Total length is 34.5mm, threaded portion is around 28.5mm. I am guessing that the head is a T25 Torx. There are 3 of these
    Upper part of exhaust manifold. Total length is 52.5mm, threaded portion is around 48.5mm. I am fuessing that the head is a T30 Torx. M8-1.25 There are 5 of these.
    Lower part of exhaust manifold. Total length is 107.6mm, threaded portion is around 99.3mm. I am guessing that the head is T30 Torx. M8-1.25 There are 3 of these.
    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019

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