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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my 94 EGT i recently did a compression test cyl 1&2 are 150 cyl 3-4 are 140. 25% decrease in compression between cyl 1 and cyl 3 am i screwed??
 

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did you do the test with a hot engine? did you take all plugs out and crank the engine with the throttle at WOT? if your GT still flies those numbers must be off, course my 1.9 has 115 to 120 on all cylinders and it runs and still scoots ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok but she smokes like a bastard when romped on oh sorry guys i messed this thread hah and its my own .. heres the real numbers. i totally got side tracked with all these numbers


Cyl 1&2 are 150 Cyl 3-4 are 120 these are the real numbers sorry for any confusion
 

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it's all good dude.

you need to re ring your engine and reseat your valves and top it off with all new gaskets, oil pan, front crank seal, cam seals, just overhaul it, prolly a great idea too to have the crank machined and do those main and rod bearings, just overhaul it, cams and cam bearings shouldn't need to be touched they hold up good and last forever but rings, bearings, and reseat your valves with new stem seals.
 

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Carbon build up on the valve seat causes low compression too. Seafoam for that "or" pull head and clean/lap the valves

If she pukes out blue smoke when you stomp on it...only 3 things really.

-Piston Rings
-Very bad Valve stem seal
-Headgasket crack into an oil galley


...well...4 actually....

-Blown oil seal in your turbo (my problem right now)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
aww skuce blown oil seal lol i havent gotten to a boosted state yet being its almost winter.. your a canadian you know our winters haha. im gonna baby it thru the winter then hopefully next spring im gonna rip it apart
 

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I would do a Seafoam on it. Cheapest/Easiest route right at the moment.
Any NAPA store around should have a can of it. Think it's like 14$

Just take off a vac line with the engine running. A half decent diameter one.
Thumb over the end so it doesn't stall out.
Stuff the vac line in the can so it sucks up about 1/4 to 1/2 the can.
Engine will chug badly. Let it do this for about 5-8 seconds.
Yank the "Head" fuse out of the bay fuse block to kill the engine.
Turn off key.
Put fuse back.

Go have lunch.

Come back 20-30 min later.
Start the car.
Smoke show out the tail pipe.
Idle for about 10 min.
Take for a Drive till Smoke goes away.
Do compression test to see if there are any results.

Repeat with remainder of the can if you feel like it.

"or"

Put the rest in the oil (fixes ticking lifters too)
Drive for a MAX of 50km.
Do complete oil change
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hmmf will do lol just gotta get my 1st pay im going to get silex to help me with it.he's done it before lol and i dont wanna chance blowing up the motor
 

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lol. ya. Don't hydro-lock it on the fluid. That's bad. lol


Funny thing...this stuff is mostly concentrated shot-gun cleaner!

It's designed to dissolve out carbon build up from shot-gun barrels.
Carbon on a valve seat. Same thing. Carbon = Carbon
 

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Oh...and speaking of winter.


Get your car Oil-Sprayed before the snow hits!! I tell everyone up here this.
It's the ONLY way to stop the rust and make it so you can get parts off in the spring.
Rust-Check/Canadian Tire Corrosion-Free/Whatever...get the biggest/most complete package you can afford. You will thank me later.

Have them SOAK the inside of the rear strut towers and take off the trunk plastics to flood in the top of the rear wheel archs (hit the outside of the strut towers too). Then take out the plastic door sills. Flood oil in there too. Especially right at the very front of the rocker and the very rear of the rocker. That should keep the body solid for plenty of years to come.
 

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Yeah. a Shutz gun is handy.

But get the Oil. Not the "Undercoating" in a can. That stuff actually traps water under it when it cracks in a year.

If I had a choice. I would drive my car into a vat of honey-slime-oil and drive back out.

The Black "Corrosion Free - Cause You Wanna Keep It" cans at Canadian Tire are Great stuff for filling the rocker panels.
The tall Red "Rust Check" cans are good for spraying down the insides of the rear arches from the inside of the trunk. That stuff is red penetrating oil. Soaks in deeper than the Black can stuff. But the Black can stuff is thicker and better for under-spraying.
 

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Motor oil is better than nothing...BUT...the problem is that the detergents and additives in it ABSORB water.

That's why you get chocolate milk when you get coolant contamination in the oil.

Oil and Water do mix...on occasion. lol

Try it some time. Put in equal amount of motor oil and tap water in a jar. Put on the lid and shake. Not pretty.

If you do go the Motor oil route. Get some of the cheapest Non-Detergent oil that you can get. Cheap usually means that there is a lack of additives. And also the lack of detergents gives it a shot of repelling water. Just don't use it in any engine ever! It will turn to sludge after a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I I captain lol now heres where im gonna turn this thread around haha... your a amazing welder so i've heard and a wicked bad customizer. right
 
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