Common problem Specific
to 2nd gen LX's.
(all prices are parts only)
-Problem: Some accessories dont get power or starter wont respond but battery power is fine. (91-95 only)
-Fix: New $40 switch at local part store. Easy install. Dont need to remove lock cylender.
Motorized seat belt.
-Problem: Seat belt is stuck half way in the track. Cable binds in the track.
-Fix: Free. Chances are good, if you replace it, that one will go bad to. But, you can manually lock the seat belt all the way back and use it as a normal non-motorized seat belt and still be safe.
There is small round plastic cover snapped in the B pillar right next to the seat, remove it. You will see a single wire plug, disconnect it and leave it unplugged. Next if you look in that access hole, you will see the shaft of the motor. If you can find a tool bit to fit the shaft, you can manually spin the motor till the seat belt is all the way in the locked postion. You may have to convince the seat belt some to get it un-jammed.
*Do at your own Risk.
Rear Suspension (Broken Rear springs)
-Problem: Rear end sitting low.
-Fix: Quick strut set ~$300 local parts store. No special tools required, no alignment needed. Quick strut set replaces the entire strut/spring assembly.
-Can also be from the top of the strut tower tearing from excessive rust, but not nearly as common as broken springs.
Outer tie rod end.
-Problem: clunking sound heard and felt in steering wheel.
-Fix: $15-30 per side. Can be installed at home, but requires alignment.
Timing belt and/or water pump idler pulley.
-Problem: Engine spins over (quicker then normal from no compression) but wont start.
-Fix: $15-100 depending on quality of parts and if water pump is replaced.
Valve seat Drop.
-Problem: Engine sounds like it's trying to eat a bucket of nut's and bolts. Spark plug (one or more) normally has the tip chewed up. Bad or no compression.
-Fix: New or reman head, or whole new engine depending on damage. Problem is very hit and miss with 2nd gens. Some might have it happen twice to them while others will never have a problem. A used good running engine should cost $100-300.
-Problem: TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK... One or more Lifter is squishy and wont hold oil pressure.
-Fix: Remove the rockers and push down the top of the lifter, if it's soft then it needs to be replaced. You can try taking it apart and cleaning the check ball valve, but chances are if it's been ticking for awhile, it will be too worn out to hold oil pressure. They can cost as much as $25 each.
Hot glowing red catalytic converter & loss of power.
-Problem: Ignition or cam timing is off, causing power loss and high Exhaust Gas Temps.
-Fix: New Crank Pulley. The rubber ring insulating the pulley from the crank sensor trigger ring has failed, letting the trigger wheel slip.
-Can also be from a damaged crankshaft & harmonic balancer keyway hole.
-Or can also be the same with a timing belt that has jumped a tooth.
-Fix: Needs new timing belt.
Poor heat & Engine cant warm up.
-Problem: Over cooling. Heater does not blow hot, and engine temp gauge hardly makes it past cold.
-Fix: Either the the thermostat has failed, or the bypass built into the thermostat housing has opened up. This is normally over looked and missed by the average back yard mechanic. Thermostat housing need's to be replaced.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... highlight=
Warning: Thermostat housing bolts like to break off.
Heater & A/C Blower.
-Does'nt work at all = Plug on the bottom of the blower box (right above the passangers feet) is corroded from moisture, then melted from over heating from the poor electrical connection.
-Only works on high setting = Blower motor resistor.
-Problem: PCV tube elbow dry rots or cracks open, causing the car to stall.
-Fix: Replace with OEM elbow, or similar sized elbow from the "HELP" section of your local auto store.
Battery Dummy light.
-Problem: The red Battery light on the dash is on when running.
-Fix: Can be 2 main problems, either the alternator has failed OR the small single wire that plugs into the top of the alternator has a poor connection.
-Problem: Speedometer needle jumps up and down at highway speeds. Very common in 96.
-Fix: Speedometer cable is binding up, replace or lube. Swapping in the older 80mph speedometer seems to fix it also.
-Problem: It's either stuck on or stuck off.
-Fix: You need to remove the drum and find the lever that the cable is hooked on. It has a pivot point that loves to seize up if not used regularly.
Soak it in penetrating oil and work it loose. May need to clamp it in a vise and hit it with a hammer to break it free.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 262#637262