Common Problems | Page 4 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Common Problems

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by Jeffescortlx, Nov 5, 2009.

  1. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  2. Ramon Alicea

    Ramon Alicea FEOA Member

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    Is it an easy fix? I have this problem. chased a few relay without any luck.
  3. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  4. L.J.

    L.J. Member

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  5. Berekhhnd

    Berekhhnd FEOA Member

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    I have had this problem in the past. I simply went to Home depot with the hose and found a copper elbow in the plumbing section that would fit in the hose. I suppose you could just bend a piece of tubing and attach hose clamps too.
  6. cajunscort96wagon

    cajunscort96wagon FEOA Member

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    dont forget to check those plasstic clips that hold the pulse dampener to the fuel pump... happened on mine and wouldnt start unless it was over a half tank... 2 inches of fuel line and two clamps fixed that little problem...
  7. Help me Wilbur!

    Help me Wilbur! FEOA Member

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    Is it common to have squishy breaks?
  8. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Not that I know of. Escorts seem to be about the same as my other cars.
    Another thing that can affect braking pedal 'feel' is if one or more brake hoses are swelled up inside, partically blocking the fluid flow. Its why I replace the brake hoses on my cars (not just Escorts) when they get to about 20 years old. The hardest part of the job is typically getting the hoses unbolted from the flare nuts at the end of the brake line. Lots of penetrating oil and patience is my method.
  9. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Yes. The Mazda brakes used from 1991 - 1996 suck when compared to Ford brakes used before and I think after. At least that's what I think you are noticing.
  10. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    I think all 91+ models had the Mazda brakes.
  11. Help me Wilbur!

    Help me Wilbur! FEOA Member

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    What Brake system would you convert to? I am wanting to completely redo the system, just so that I do not have a pin hole leak that I will never find.
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  12. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    If I don't turn mine all the way off. I can start the car with a screw driver. I think its nice being able to remove the key with it running. Lock the doors and it looks like its been started my remote.
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  13. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

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    So, after checking all basic stuff, finally got the car to the local Ford dealer. Car was vibrating bad all of a sudden when pulled upto a stop light. Basically lost all power and felt like it dropped a cylinder. They just called and found zero compression in cyl# 4. Wanted to try to talk me into a used engine with 150k with 30 day parts only waranty to replace the 65k engine. So hope I did the right thing. Since it's the original timing belt, had them start pulling it apart to check that. Maybe will get lucky but doesn't sound like it from what everyone is saying on here. So sounds like it dropped the valve seat. Big question now, anyone know where to get a good rebuilt for a reasonable amount of $?
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  14. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I got a JY engine that was still 'good', and got a rebuilt head (having new inlet valve seat inserts), and spent about $700, plus 3 weeks of my time (cause Im a slow worker and this is a hobby with me). Also I had my other Escort for driving meanwhile.
    The problem with any JY engine is that the guarantee doesnt do anything for me. They say it is guaranteed for 90 days or whatever. But its so much trouble to take it out again, and get a different JY engine - that I prefer just rebuilding them myself.
    The important thing, if removing the head reveals a dropped inlet valve seat, is to get the pistons out for examination, and the intake manifold to where you can spray it heavily with a degreaser, then to flush it out with a garden hose and nozzle. And this needs to be done with the intake manifold off the head.
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  15. mxman420

    mxman420 FEOA Member

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    Yeah, they bore scoped it, it's the #4 intake vale seat. And so far no scoring on the cyl wall or piston.
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  16. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    If that valve seat broke up, I dont see how the pieces could fit into the combustion chamber without gouging the top of the piston - and damaging it. With the two I fixed up (after the valve seat had broken up on the prior owner, the cylinder walls were fine, no scratches at all - but the pistons were unuseable. I wasnt able to tell that till I held them in my hands though. I was able to see pockmarks on the piston tops while they were still in the cylinder.
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  17. Gierhead66

    Gierhead66 FEOA Member

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    Great suggestion. This was my problem just this past weekend. But a few shots of lubricant freed up the mechanism enough that it would go into the LOCK position and quit that annoying chime. Thanks again.
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  18. Marvin

    Marvin FEOA Member

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    Common problems I always see... not mentioned yet.

    1) Knocking noise from front brakes. A ridge has formed on the caliper slide pins. Replace and lube.

    2) Intermittently the AC stops working. Bad relays cause this. They are two of them located back of passenger side engine compartment. To diagnose, when the AC is turned on and not working, tap on these relays. It will work again but fail after awhile. Just replace them both if tapping them temporary fixes it.

    3) First hot day of the season often an old harmonic balancer will fail and come apart. The extra load of the first use of the ac for the season kills an old balancer already weak with age. I replace the balancer automatically when replacing timing belts.

    4) Already mentioned, two relays that control the cooling fan go bad, replace them. What was not mentioned is often these relays are damaged by excessive draw from a bad cooling fan motor.
  19. The mechanically Inept

    The mechanically Inept New Member

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  20. The mechanically Inept

    The mechanically Inept New Member

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    Could this be the same if it dose the same thing from 25-30?

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