Head Gasket won't keep your fan from coming on, it is a sensor somewhere, or the fan itself may have shorted. If it works during the tests, then the fan is a no go. Also, try the Cooling fan Relay in the Engine Fuse panel, my fan started acting up and that seemed to be the cause of the problem for me. Need to get the wiring harness fixed on the red car, so I can test this on it too.juggalo said:
Common Problems
Common problem Specific to 2nd gen LX's.
(all prices are parts only)
Ignition switch.
-Problem: Some accessories dont get power or starter wont respond but battery power is fine. (91-95 only)
-Fix: New $40 switch at local part store. Easy install. Dont need to remove lock cylender.
Motorized seat belt.
-Problem: Seat belt is stuck half way in the track. Cable binds in the track.
-Fix: Free. Chances are good, if you replace it, that one will go bad to. But, you can manually lock the seat belt all the way back and use it as a normal non-motorized seat belt and still be safe.
There is small round plastic cover snapped in the B pillar right next to the seat, remove it. You will see a single wire plug, disconnect it and leave it unplugged. Next if you look in that access hole, you will see the shaft of the motor. If you can find a tool bit to fit the shaft, you can manually spin the motor till the seat belt is all the way in the locked postion. You may have to convince the seat belt some to get it un-jammed.
*Do at your own Risk.
Rear Suspension (Broken Rear springs)
-Problem: Rear end sitting low.
-Fix: Quick strut set ~$300 local parts store. No special tools required, no alignment needed. Quick strut set replaces the entire strut/spring assembly.
-Can also be from the top of the strut tower tearing from excessive rust, but not nearly as common as broken springs.
Outer tie rod end.
-Problem: clunking sound heard and felt in steering wheel.
-Fix: $15-30 per side. Can be installed at home, but requires alignment.
Timing belt and/or water pump idler pulley.
-Problem: Engine spins over (quicker then normal from no compression) but wont start.
-Fix: $15-100 depending on quality of parts and if water pump is replaced.
Valve seat Drop.
-Problem: Engine sounds like it's trying to eat a bucket of nut's and bolts. Spark plug (one or more) normally has the tip chewed up. Bad or no compression.
-Fix: New or reman head, or whole new engine depending on damage. Problem is very hit and miss with 2nd gens. Some might have it happen twice to them while others will never have a problem. A used good running engine should cost $100-300.
Hydraulic Lifter.
-Problem: TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK... One or more Lifter is squishy and wont hold oil pressure.
-Fix: Remove the rockers and push down the top of the lifter, if it's soft then it needs to be replaced. You can try taking it apart and cleaning the check ball valve, but chances are if it's been ticking for awhile, it will be too worn out to hold oil pressure. They can cost as much as $25 each.
Hot glowing red catalytic converter & loss of power.
-Problem: Ignition or cam timing is off, causing power loss and high Exhaust Gas Temps.
-Fix: New Crank Pulley. The rubber ring insulating the pulley from the crank sensor trigger ring has failed, letting the trigger wheel slip.
-Can also be from a damaged crankshaft & harmonic balancer keyway hole.
-Or can also be the same with a timing belt that has jumped a tooth.
-Fix: Needs new timing belt.
Poor heat & Engine cant warm up.
-Problem: Over cooling. Heater does not blow hot, and engine temp gauge hardly makes it past cold.
-Fix: Either the the thermostat has failed, or the bypass built into the thermostat housing has opened up. This is normally over looked and missed by the average back yard mechanic. Thermostat housing need's to be replaced.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... highlight=
Warning: Thermostat housing bolts like to break off.
Heater & A/C Blower.
-Does'nt work at all = Plug on the bottom of the blower box (right above the passangers feet) is corroded from moisture, then melted from over heating from the poor electrical connection.
-Only works on high setting = Blower motor resistor.
Poor idle.
-Problem: PCV tube elbow dry rots or cracks open, causing the car to stall.
-Fix: Replace with OEM elbow, or similar sized elbow from the "HELP" section of your local auto store.
Battery Dummy light.
-Problem: The red Battery light on the dash is on when running.
-Fix: Can be 2 main problems, either the alternator has failed OR the small single wire that plugs into the top of the alternator has a poor connection.
Speedometer Bounce.
-Problem: Speedometer needle jumps up and down at highway speeds. Very common in 96.
-Fix: Speedometer cable is binding up, replace or lube. Swapping in the older 80mph speedometer seems to fix it also.
E-Brake.
-Problem: It's either stuck on or stuck off.
-Fix: You need to remove the drum and find the lever that the cable is hooked on. It has a pivot point that loves to seize up if not used regularly.
Soak it in penetrating oil and work it loose. May need to clamp it in a vise and hit it with a hammer to break it free.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 262#637262
(all prices are parts only)
Ignition switch.
-Problem: Some accessories dont get power or starter wont respond but battery power is fine. (91-95 only)
-Fix: New $40 switch at local part store. Easy install. Dont need to remove lock cylender.
Motorized seat belt.
-Problem: Seat belt is stuck half way in the track. Cable binds in the track.
-Fix: Free. Chances are good, if you replace it, that one will go bad to. But, you can manually lock the seat belt all the way back and use it as a normal non-motorized seat belt and still be safe.
There is small round plastic cover snapped in the B pillar right next to the seat, remove it. You will see a single wire plug, disconnect it and leave it unplugged. Next if you look in that access hole, you will see the shaft of the motor. If you can find a tool bit to fit the shaft, you can manually spin the motor till the seat belt is all the way in the locked postion. You may have to convince the seat belt some to get it un-jammed.
*Do at your own Risk.
Rear Suspension (Broken Rear springs)
-Problem: Rear end sitting low.
-Fix: Quick strut set ~$300 local parts store. No special tools required, no alignment needed. Quick strut set replaces the entire strut/spring assembly.
-Can also be from the top of the strut tower tearing from excessive rust, but not nearly as common as broken springs.
Outer tie rod end.
-Problem: clunking sound heard and felt in steering wheel.
-Fix: $15-30 per side. Can be installed at home, but requires alignment.
Timing belt and/or water pump idler pulley.
-Problem: Engine spins over (quicker then normal from no compression) but wont start.
-Fix: $15-100 depending on quality of parts and if water pump is replaced.
Valve seat Drop.
-Problem: Engine sounds like it's trying to eat a bucket of nut's and bolts. Spark plug (one or more) normally has the tip chewed up. Bad or no compression.
-Fix: New or reman head, or whole new engine depending on damage. Problem is very hit and miss with 2nd gens. Some might have it happen twice to them while others will never have a problem. A used good running engine should cost $100-300.
Hydraulic Lifter.
-Problem: TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK... One or more Lifter is squishy and wont hold oil pressure.
-Fix: Remove the rockers and push down the top of the lifter, if it's soft then it needs to be replaced. You can try taking it apart and cleaning the check ball valve, but chances are if it's been ticking for awhile, it will be too worn out to hold oil pressure. They can cost as much as $25 each.
Hot glowing red catalytic converter & loss of power.
-Problem: Ignition or cam timing is off, causing power loss and high Exhaust Gas Temps.
-Fix: New Crank Pulley. The rubber ring insulating the pulley from the crank sensor trigger ring has failed, letting the trigger wheel slip.
-Can also be from a damaged crankshaft & harmonic balancer keyway hole.
-Or can also be the same with a timing belt that has jumped a tooth.
-Fix: Needs new timing belt.
Poor heat & Engine cant warm up.
-Problem: Over cooling. Heater does not blow hot, and engine temp gauge hardly makes it past cold.
-Fix: Either the the thermostat has failed, or the bypass built into the thermostat housing has opened up. This is normally over looked and missed by the average back yard mechanic. Thermostat housing need's to be replaced.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... highlight=
Warning: Thermostat housing bolts like to break off.
Heater & A/C Blower.
-Does'nt work at all = Plug on the bottom of the blower box (right above the passangers feet) is corroded from moisture, then melted from over heating from the poor electrical connection.
-Only works on high setting = Blower motor resistor.
Poor idle.
-Problem: PCV tube elbow dry rots or cracks open, causing the car to stall.
-Fix: Replace with OEM elbow, or similar sized elbow from the "HELP" section of your local auto store.
Battery Dummy light.
-Problem: The red Battery light on the dash is on when running.
-Fix: Can be 2 main problems, either the alternator has failed OR the small single wire that plugs into the top of the alternator has a poor connection.
Speedometer Bounce.
-Problem: Speedometer needle jumps up and down at highway speeds. Very common in 96.
-Fix: Speedometer cable is binding up, replace or lube. Swapping in the older 80mph speedometer seems to fix it also.
E-Brake.
-Problem: It's either stuck on or stuck off.
-Fix: You need to remove the drum and find the lever that the cable is hooked on. It has a pivot point that loves to seize up if not used regularly.
Soak it in penetrating oil and work it loose. May need to clamp it in a vise and hit it with a hammer to break it free.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 262#637262
41 - 60 of 91 Posts
one knowone mentioned that i could see, that i have also yet to resolve: Bad window regulators! every escort ive had, the windows suck. they get stuck, roll up sideways, etc. I cannot figure out how or what i can do to fix it. Any idears? Just picked up a 93 wagon with 46k original and its like brand new, except for the dang windows!
With Electric Windows? hmm, never had a problem with manual windows, and all mine were manual.
let me take that back, on my old 91 Pony 2dr, I got these Nice Pioneer 2-Way 240 Watt speakers that actually fit perfect in the holes. 2 days later I went to the local Sonic, only to find my windows wouldn't go all the way down. After further review, I found the Magnet for those nice Pioneers Got in the way of the glass when rolled down. So I dealt with it.
let me take that back, on my old 91 Pony 2dr, I got these Nice Pioneer 2-Way 240 Watt speakers that actually fit perfect in the holes. 2 days later I went to the local Sonic, only to find my windows wouldn't go all the way down. After further review, I found the Magnet for those nice Pioneers Got in the way of the glass when rolled down. So I dealt with it.
Any1 have a pic or a really good description of were this is and what it looks like?funkyMonoloko said:I FORGOT PLASTIC CONNECTOR TO THE FAN MOTOR underneath DASH BOARD OFF passenger SIDEfunkyMonoloko said:M8 i have same problem but i have fix tfis upethangsmith said:Also: Cooling fan does not turn on due to PCM or relay failure.
probably the connector is burnt out and is no good connection to the power source .when i replaced the connector and burnt wires So position 2 and 4 have bean fixed on the fan switch !!! And all WORKS
I had the same problem, trust me on this:ChrisM said:I've got the same problem, and it can be tricky to turn off the chime, but sometimes it's as simple as making sure the key is fully turned to the 'off' position. basically, turn the key as far as you can, counterclockwise before removing it from the ignition.mccubbs said:so i have a very annoying problem. when ever my door is opened the chime for the "key-in-ignition" goes off constantly. does anybody know where that buzzer is and what color wire goes to it? i just want to cut the darn thing so it stops lol
Sometimes (for me at least) removing the key too quickly will cause the chime to continue. Removing the key slowly may resolve it.
Leave the door open so you can hear the chime
Get a can of WD-40. Spray down the metal part of your key. Now put the straw on the can. Spray into the ignition switch.
Now push the key in and pull it out a few times. Now put it in, and turn it to the ON and back to off a few times. Pull it out. Is the chime gone? If not, keep going:
Clean up extra WD-40 with a rag. Then spray some more inside and repeat above.
Eventually you'll loosen up all the crap in there and little switch inside the ignition that tells the car when the key is in it will return to its correct position.
Plus its good to see all the dirty wd-40 come out of the keyhole. Makes you realize that you have somewhere between 15 and 19 years of dirt in there.
Thanks for the heads up...my ignition switch failed last week, so I had to buy a new one...it was about $55 at the local part store. Replacing this switch was fairly easy - just one screw that's nearly impossible to get to without removing the steering wheel and turn signal module/switch. Anyways, putting a new ignition switch fixed the chime issue as well as allowing me to start my car without having to push it down the street and pop the clutch.kuwacs said:I had the same problem, trust me on this:ChrisM said:I've got the same problem, and it can be tricky to turn off the chime, but sometimes it's as simple as making sure the key is fully turned to the 'off' position. basically, turn the key as far as you can, counterclockwise before removing it from the ignition.mccubbs said:so i have a very annoying problem. when ever my door is opened the chime for the "key-in-ignition" goes off constantly. does anybody know where that buzzer is and what color wire goes to it? i just want to cut the darn thing so it stops lol
Sometimes (for me at least) removing the key too quickly will cause the chime to continue. Removing the key slowly may resolve it.
Leave the door open so you can hear the chime
Get a can of WD-40. Spray down the metal part of your key. Now put the straw on the can. Spray into the ignition switch.
Now push the key in and pull it out a few times. Now put it in, and turn it to the ON and back to off a few times. Pull it out. Is the chime gone? If not, keep going:
Clean up extra WD-40 with a rag. Then spray some more inside and repeat above.
Eventually you'll loosen up all the crap in there and little switch inside the ignition that tells the car when the key is in it will return to its correct position.
Plus its good to see all the dirty wd-40 come out of the keyhole. Makes you realize that you have somewhere between 15 and 19 years of dirt in there.
Wavy or Unstable Tachometer at High RPM...
Try testing/replacing your spark plug wires, gapping your plugs (0.054"), improving your grounding connections. I've had the issue twice and both times it disappeared post plug-wire replacement.
http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html
<<Inside the EDIS module is a microprocessor, VR sensor input, and coil driver transistors. The VR sensor drives an input detector which fires on the falling zero crossing of the signal at -300mv. The module then uses this information to calculate the current crank position and speed. When the EDIS module determines the spark should be ignited, it fires the appropriate coil. The EMF flyback from the coil then triggers the IDM of the EDIS module and causes it to emit a tach pulse on the IDM pin.>>
.
.
.
Low RPM, High Engine Load, Miss...
Problem Description: Gradually gets worse over time. Engine dead-misses if try to accelerate hard from a full stop. Engine operates perfectly fine once reaching higher RPMs. To avoid the miss, you have to feather the accelerator until reach higher RPMs, at which point you can then mash on it without issue. RE TESTING: This is easy to reproduce with a manual transmission, but for vehicles with automatic transmission, you can use the the E-Brake to max engine load while at low RPM.
Problem Cause: Resistance "too" high from spark plug wires.
Problem Resolution: Replace spark plug wires. Use either the absolute cheapest set you can possibly find, or the $50 OEM Motorcraft set.
Anecdote: Even though I wasn't having any issues, replaced my original set of OEM Motorcraft wires at ~120k miles. Regretted it ever since. Had to replace the wires every 10-20k since then, for the low-RPM miss issue. Not liking having to replace them so damned often, I purchased progressively more and more expensive sets. After maybe the 3rd or 4th set, I had noticed a pattern: the more I spent, the shorter amount of time they lasted. So with the next set, I went to several stores and settled on the absolute cheapest set, which was at Advance Auto. They by far out-lasted all the more expensive sets. The more expensive sets are often labeled with things like "double-silicon." That just means "more insulation." Abrasion wear isn't an issue with Escorts. Anyway I eventually went ahead and dropped the $50 for the Motorcraft set. Will see whether these last like the OEM set did.
EDIT: Now 2016. Same Motorcraft plug wires. Get the Motorcraft.
Try testing/replacing your spark plug wires, gapping your plugs (0.054"), improving your grounding connections. I've had the issue twice and both times it disappeared post plug-wire replacement.
http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html
<<Inside the EDIS module is a microprocessor, VR sensor input, and coil driver transistors. The VR sensor drives an input detector which fires on the falling zero crossing of the signal at -300mv. The module then uses this information to calculate the current crank position and speed. When the EDIS module determines the spark should be ignited, it fires the appropriate coil. The EMF flyback from the coil then triggers the IDM of the EDIS module and causes it to emit a tach pulse on the IDM pin.>>
.
.
.
Low RPM, High Engine Load, Miss...
Problem Description: Gradually gets worse over time. Engine dead-misses if try to accelerate hard from a full stop. Engine operates perfectly fine once reaching higher RPMs. To avoid the miss, you have to feather the accelerator until reach higher RPMs, at which point you can then mash on it without issue. RE TESTING: This is easy to reproduce with a manual transmission, but for vehicles with automatic transmission, you can use the the E-Brake to max engine load while at low RPM.
Problem Cause: Resistance "too" high from spark plug wires.
Problem Resolution: Replace spark plug wires. Use either the absolute cheapest set you can possibly find, or the $50 OEM Motorcraft set.
Anecdote: Even though I wasn't having any issues, replaced my original set of OEM Motorcraft wires at ~120k miles. Regretted it ever since. Had to replace the wires every 10-20k since then, for the low-RPM miss issue. Not liking having to replace them so damned often, I purchased progressively more and more expensive sets. After maybe the 3rd or 4th set, I had noticed a pattern: the more I spent, the shorter amount of time they lasted. So with the next set, I went to several stores and settled on the absolute cheapest set, which was at Advance Auto. They by far out-lasted all the more expensive sets. The more expensive sets are often labeled with things like "double-silicon." That just means "more insulation." Abrasion wear isn't an issue with Escorts. Anyway I eventually went ahead and dropped the $50 for the Motorcraft set. Will see whether these last like the OEM set did.
EDIT: Now 2016. Same Motorcraft plug wires. Get the Motorcraft.
ok so recently I found the problem to my ignition switch problem. putting the heater on 4 makes it extremely hot. having the rear defrost on makes it kind of hot. anything else it stays warm. and this was after replacing a frayed wire going to the voltage regulator
so i tried to get a new main wiring harness assembly in the dash but it's became obsolete since last year. i'm to the point of getting rid of this POS
Wheres the "Like" button?juggalo said:so i tried to get a new main wiring harness assembly in the dash but it's became obsolete since last year. i'm to the point of getting rid of this POS
Sorry to hear that, i feel the same way sometimes. Hopefully its just a simple problem that was overlooked.
Frayed wires, main wire harness replacement, chronic ignition switch failure... I don't think these are common problems. Recommend linking to a new thread. (Ignition switch failures may be common, but not necessarily chronic failures.)
In the same situation, I'd want to...
0) Note which ignition switch pin keeps failing.
1) Obtain wiring diagrams for ignition. Figure out whether that pin switches ground or switches positive. Figure out what circuits feed off of it or are capable of feeding back through it in the event that they themselves have a weak connection to ground. (read up on voltage drop testing) Check any relay(s) that may be tied to that ignition switch pin.
2) Figure out what modifications were done to it (including alarms, remote starters, stereo equipment, engine fan relay mods, etcetera, etc...) and at least temporarily undo everything - try to return it to stock. (compare before and after load readings as each circuit is restored to stock)
3) Ground locations: http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 053#647053 It is also extremely common to have corroded connectors at the blower motor's wire harness.
4) Obtain the next new ignition switch from a totally different retailer, using a different manufacturer obtained from a different warehouse in a different region.
All else failing I'd look into protecting the ignition switch... wonder whether load can be reduced via wiring in a secondary relay for the pin, or/and using some kind of thermal fuse, diode and resistor. Thermal fuse could be placed in an easy-to-access location and quickly replaced as needed. But the relay mod would be the better route provided that load never spikes above recommended levels for that particular gauge of wire. But since you're replacing a wire harness, I'm guess it does.
http://vestest.com/testingtroubleshooting.htm
Originally posted by author "The1Nicko"...
Graciously hosed by: http://imageshack.us/
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7609/i ... switch.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9176 ... ectors.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/3180/igntesting.jpg
In the same situation, I'd want to...
0) Note which ignition switch pin keeps failing.
1) Obtain wiring diagrams for ignition. Figure out whether that pin switches ground or switches positive. Figure out what circuits feed off of it or are capable of feeding back through it in the event that they themselves have a weak connection to ground. (read up on voltage drop testing) Check any relay(s) that may be tied to that ignition switch pin.
2) Figure out what modifications were done to it (including alarms, remote starters, stereo equipment, engine fan relay mods, etcetera, etc...) and at least temporarily undo everything - try to return it to stock. (compare before and after load readings as each circuit is restored to stock)
3) Ground locations: http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 053#647053 It is also extremely common to have corroded connectors at the blower motor's wire harness.
4) Obtain the next new ignition switch from a totally different retailer, using a different manufacturer obtained from a different warehouse in a different region.
All else failing I'd look into protecting the ignition switch... wonder whether load can be reduced via wiring in a secondary relay for the pin, or/and using some kind of thermal fuse, diode and resistor. Thermal fuse could be placed in an easy-to-access location and quickly replaced as needed. But the relay mod would be the better route provided that load never spikes above recommended levels for that particular gauge of wire. But since you're replacing a wire harness, I'm guess it does.
http://vestest.com/testingtroubleshooting.htm
Originally posted by author "The1Nicko"...
Graciously hosed by: http://imageshack.us/
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7609/i ... switch.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9176 ... ectors.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/3180/igntesting.jpg
getting one from a different place isn't really gonna matter. the problem is, the soldering inside the i/s r so close together, anymore volts/amps will cause an arch usually shorting out the accessories and/or the start positions. i've checked the wiring connections to the motor and found no corrosion. i'm sure the problem lies under the dash somewhere. wherever it is, it's making my switch hot with the heater on, plus my fuel gauge drops about 1/4 at highway speeds. i do kinda believe the 20 year old indash main wiring assembly harness has some kind of short.
oh, and the guy at titus will tacoma, where we originally got the car in 93, was the one saying it's an obsolete part. so why did i find it on fordparts.com with the part number 14401? lol, f*ckin yerk!
oh, and the guy at titus will tacoma, where we originally got the car in 93, was the one saying it's an obsolete part. so why did i find it on fordparts.com with the part number 14401? lol, f*ckin yerk!
Thread Hi-Jack continued here...
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 591#693591
The ignition switches ground. So going through the possibilities it appears there's either an ignition tumbler/key alignment issue, or short as you suggested.
Re possible alignment problem: If the ignition tumbler/key keeps the switch from lining up perfectly/properly, you may have a situation where the switch's contacts are just barely touching one another. Reduced contact surface area means reduced handling capacity. Reduced handling capacity means higher resistances under load. The contact points will heat up in response to high resistance under load. Additional heat accelerates corrosion. Excess heat damages the contacts and/or their plastic retainers.
EDIT:
New Thread Continued 12y01m11d:
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=77163
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 591#693591
The ignition switches ground. So going through the possibilities it appears there's either an ignition tumbler/key alignment issue, or short as you suggested.
Re possible alignment problem: If the ignition tumbler/key keeps the switch from lining up perfectly/properly, you may have a situation where the switch's contacts are just barely touching one another. Reduced contact surface area means reduced handling capacity. Reduced handling capacity means higher resistances under load. The contact points will heat up in response to high resistance under load. Additional heat accelerates corrosion. Excess heat damages the contacts and/or their plastic retainers.
EDIT:
New Thread Continued 12y01m11d:
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=77163
remove cover from steering column(very easy few fillips head screws) small black wire coming from very small white plastic (key in ignition switch). Cut the wire chime will still work for headlamps (fixed).mccubbs said:so i have a very annoying problem. when ever my door is opened the chime for the "key-in-ignition" goes off constantly. does anybody know where that buzzer is and what color wire goes to it? i just want to cut the darn thing so it stops lol
Torque Spec's
Torque specs for front axle nut, and outer tierods?...anyone...anyone....Beuller...... Bueller......anyone?
Thanks ! :wink:
looked around and didnt see anything related
Torque specs for front axle nut, and outer tierods?...anyone...anyone....Beuller...... Bueller......anyone?
Thanks ! :wink:
looked around and didnt see anything related
Re: Torque Spec's
Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer; 235-319 N.m and/or
174-236 Ft.lbs
We broke a 1/2 in drive [or was it 3/4?] Craftsman breaker bar trying to get it OFF.................... easier getting it ON, ha.
Dpn't know the ourter tie rod end.
Good luck,
LarryR
Ford 1994 Service Manual page 05-04-24 shows:ColaSCeWagon said:Torque specs for front axle nut, and outer tierods?...anyone...anyone....Beuller...... Bueller......anyone?
Thanks ! :wink:
looked around and didnt see anything related
Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer; 235-319 N.m and/or
174-236 Ft.lbs
We broke a 1/2 in drive [or was it 3/4?] Craftsman breaker bar trying to get it OFF.................... easier getting it ON, ha.
Dpn't know the ourter tie rod end.
Good luck,
LarryR
Outer tie rod end
German torque spec: Gudentite
German torque spec: Gudentite
I have a '95 1.9L that originally broke (sheared the teeth) a timing belt after 110,000 miles (i know bad). I have since replaced it and 4 months later the new belt sheared about 10 teeth stopping the engine. During this 4 month period the engine was progressively get noisier and producing smoke out the tail pipe. Today I have replaced the belt (third time) and the engine starts and sounds good, but after about 3 minutes white smoke appears and originates from the exhaust manifold (that concerns me) and after idling a few more minutes the engine begins to idle down and eventually dies if I don't keep my foot on the gas pedal. I not sure if it is a fuel issue or mechanical. Any thoughts?
^Bad place to post a question. Try making a new thread in the 2nd gen 1.9 section.
A spark plug wire elbow( off a used wire) can be used instead...Dave94LX said:-Problem: PCV tube elbow dry rots or cracks open, causing the car to stall.
-Fix: Replace with OEM elbow, or similar sized elbow from the "HELP" section of your local auto store.
cheaper, and free if you have wire laying around
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