Common Problems | Page 2 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Common Problems

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by Jeffescortlx, Nov 5, 2009.

  1. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Rear Strut Tower repair...
    NOTE: Fasteners are NOT recommended for BODY repair - MUST be welded
    (Try not to wait until actual failure.)

    Protecting the Strut Tower...
    https://www.feoa.net/threads/no-srtut-tower-rust.82678/
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=69593

    Shifter Bushing Part#s...
    Ford - E7GZ7335A
    NAPA - ATM0771303
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... sc&start=0

    Heated Oxygen (O2) Sensor Part Number... (OBD-I '94)
    Motorcraft
    DY-649
    F1SZ-9F472-A
    SENSOR
    CONTENTS MADE IN JAPAN
    AF30E W/O 911695 05/26/10
    0 31508 32783 2 (bar code)
    Designed, engineered and recommended by Ford Motor Company
    (New 4-wire sensor encased in White - original '94 sensor encased in red)
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 207#645207
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013
  2. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    if u have to keep replacing the ignition switch, replace the starter solenoid before it melts the connectors at the ignition switch and solenoid. believe me, i just went thru this problem so i now have to replace the solenoid and splice in new connectors.
  3. SRMobile

    SRMobile New Member

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    THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!

    Solved my problem. I've been dealing with this for 6 months now and went out to purchase some hydrolic tubbing and voila! All fixed!
  4. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    white O2 sensor and oil leaking from between the head and block onto the exhuast down pipe=cracked head gasket. mine has this problem but no white smoke and still runs fine. i have noticed a couple 1.9's out there with this problem
  5. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    poor idle can also be caused by the timing belt jumping a tooth towards the radiator which means the cam timing is retarded. basically doing this will move the torque from the bottom end to the mid to high end also causing rough idle and less gas mileage.
  6. mccubbs

    mccubbs New Member

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    so i have a very annoying problem. when ever my door is opened the chime for the "key-in-ignition" goes off constantly. does anybody know where that buzzer is and what color wire goes to it? i just want to cut the darn thing so it stops lol
  7. ChrisM

    ChrisM FEOA Member

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    I've got the same problem, and it can be tricky to turn off the chime, but sometimes it's as simple as making sure the key is fully turned to the 'off' position. basically, turn the key as far as you can, counterclockwise before removing it from the ignition.

    Sometimes (for me at least) removing the key too quickly will cause the chime to continue. Removing the key slowly may resolve it.
  8. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    It's a combination of worn-key** and worn-switch. Search the forum using those phrasings. No shortage of information. NUTSHELL: Replacing the ignition switch will resolve it but you'll also want see about having your local locksmith make a new key from an unused backup. (not your local hardware store who may or may not make a precise copy) Continued use will eventually result with key turning and extraction problems.*** For some people, simply replacing the key may resolved the chime issue. Some people just cut the white (chime) wire running off of the ignition, others say that replacing the switch isn't hard. (hardest part removing the tamper-resistant fasteners) Be sure to press firmly inward, anytime the key is being turned to crank or extract.

    ** (your ignition cylinder shouldn't allow key extraction before OFF, shouldn't protrude or sick-out in OFF position - stresses the switch)

    *** (people used to regularly recommend that the ignition lock cylinder be replaced for these issues - it's more likely just the key)
  9. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    clank clank clank at idle followed by a buzzz on acceleration, noise from timing belt area: serpentine belt tensioner. take it off and look where the arrow on the tensioner is pointing. if it's out of range it could also have a crack on the side of it.
  10. pnmred

    pnmred FEOA Member

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    any ideas on replacing the worn and ripped/cracked rubber trim under windows? :)
  11. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    They are clipped on with plastic fasteners. I rec. hitting up a JY to practice removing them. You are bound to break some fasteners, so grab some extras. Could always remove the covering on yours, scuff them up, mask off, and paint them.
  12. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    ur talkin about the black part under the windows? mine were glued on. my driver side is now silver while the passenger side still has it. just sand off that old glue and paint it.
  13. LOWETGT

    LOWETGT FEOA Member

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    The strip under the 2 door quarter window are held in my plastic clips for sure. Unsure of the 4 door...
  14. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    i'm sure the 4 doors r like the wagons with the taller bottom window panels than the 2 doors.
  15. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Silicon lubricant, keeps those (and door/trunk seals, roof rails) from dry-rotting (and sticking in the Winter.) My passenger side molding shriveled up like a worm on a hot sidewalk, just hours after emerging from a Mike's Car Wash. It was like it had gone through rigamortis or something. I suspect they had one of the tire/hub-cap cleaning jets mis-aimed. Last time I was in there; and that was many years ago. So I suggest staying out of those car washes. They're VERY hard on rubber parts in general; especially those that are 16+ years old. Painted that silver molding black. (with some difficulty) Shiny silver just doesn't look very good on blue. ;)
  16. 95EscortDriver

    95EscortDriver FEOA Member

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    Emerald green either, but unfortunately thats the least of my worries right now.

    Currently have the idles at 500 RPM issue, and the Drivers side rear Strut mount leaks water into the hatchback issues. Since I live in a area that rarely gets salt on the roads, but salt from rain and breeze coming from the Ocean, I have just been riding around without the plugs in my trunk, and have had to grind and primer it cause the paint and Undercoating on the inside peeled. Now that I know it's possibly leaking through the strut mount, that will get replaced on both sides, and see if it still leaks. I'm upgrading rear sway bar to the wagon sway bar anyways...
  17. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    my idle raised a little after i removed the PS pulley
  18. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Ooh, yeah; gotta get that licked sooner rather than later. Had the same water-in-the-trunk issue except I never could figure where the hell it was getting in until the strut mount outright failed. (4-door LX sedan)

    Here are my experiences in regard to getting the resulting issues rectified:
    https://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 526#618526
  19. GrampaDave

    GrampaDave New Member

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    I had this too. The buzzer is operated by a switch which is supposed to open up when you remove the key, but the little plastic doohickey that operates the switch wasn't quite long enough. (Why? No idea.) I removed it and fashioned a replacement from a calibrated length of round wooden toothpick. That was a year ago and it still works perfectly. If I'd cut the wire I swear I'd've locked myself out half a dozen times by now.

    HTH,
    Dave
  20. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    so i'm on my 4th ECT sensor and now starting to think it's something else in the cooling system. so if ur fans don't come on and ur ECT sensor doesn't show up in the trouble codes and the fans do work during the test, then something isn't right. my thermo0stat was replaced in 2000 and my water pump and t-belt was replaced in 2009. i can't remember if a flus was ever done but i don't know. i'm thinkin my head gasket is gettin worse.

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