Add the PCV elbow to the list. This thread is complete with pics:
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=26196
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=26196
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NOW ya tell me.Jeffescortlx said:
That's the very first thing I broke on my '91 Wagon.
First fix I had to do was replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I figured I might as well just flush the radiator, install a new thermostat, and get a new radiator cap, while I was at it.
The prior owner must have thought that a cold engine was a good thing...I found that whoever replaced the thermostat last forgot to replace the thermostat - there was no thermostat. Good thing I live in an area (SF Bay Area, CA) that very rarely gets temperatures that drop below freezing.
Some images hosted by: http://www.imageshack.us/
Bad smells from blower ventilation HVAC ducts:
- http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 329#614329
Chronic Rotor Warping ? (pulsing brakes, pedal shakes or vehicle shimmies)
Problem removing front caliper slide-mount sleeve pins from caliper ?
Parking Brake ineffective ? (Drum Brakes)
Problems removing rear brake drum from wheel ?
Bad smells from blower ventilation HVAC ducts:
- http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 329#614329
Chronic Rotor Warping ? (pulsing brakes, pedal shakes or vehicle shimmies)
- -Caliper slide mounts are locked and need to be honed-out.
(sometimes create a pop, knock or clunk as they break loose while cooling)
-To clean the slide pins and caliper mounts, degrease then attach a 1.5" or 2"
steel wire tube brush to a high-speed AC plugin drill. (no battery operated BS)
-Several examples of the steel wire tube / pipe brush: (LINK: Burr Clean tube Brush)
OR get these from Lowes hardware and just hacksaw the handle off:
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Another example:
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-Rubber boots that don't seal need to be replaced.
Stiff wire wrapped around the ends may assist seal.
Special lubricants are available for caliper slidemounts.
Otherwise, any high-temp bearing grease may due. (note: may react with rubber)
-Rotors will need to be machined or replaced if near minimum thickness.
Cheaper rotors may warp more readily than more expensive, heavier duty ones.
-Warping can present some dangers during slippery cool rains and winter weather.
Vehicles with ABS will experience much longer stopping distances. VEhicles without will begin to slide very easily.
Before developing this solution, used to keep two sets of rotors and regularly swap them, to keep them machined.
BREAK PADS--
-Do *NOT* buy life-time or extended-wear brake pads.
-Get the proper sized pads for your rotors.
Do not use 13" pads on a 14" rotor. (CarQuest has full-sized pads.)
Problem removing front caliper slide-mount sleeve pins from caliper ?
- -Securely hang your caliper to prevent stressing the brake line.
-To avoid damaging the sleeve, use a 1/4 drive deep socket that has a tapered end.
Similar to this but the tapered end is small enough to fit inside the sleeve.
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The wider end is too big to fit inside.
-With that inserted from the pad-side of the caliper, use a pair of large slip-jaw pliers.
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one end on the back-side of the caliper and the other pressing on top of the socket, and then press it out.
-alternative-
a large C-Clamp to press it out.
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-NOTE: Sleeves for top and bottom are different lengths.
Make a record on which slide mount sleeve pin goes where.
Parking Brake ineffective ? (Drum Brakes)
- -An automatic adjuster inside one the two drums may seize.
Set your parking brake, wheel-chock the front, jack up the rear and attempt to torque each wheel. (one may roll)
Problem resolved by removing all parts, (except wheel cylinders unless leaking,) grinding, cleaning,
greasing metal-metal contact surfaces, simulating movements, checking springs, reassembling and testing.
Re-seat your brake shoes post-service and on occassion, by hard-braking in reverse until your front wheels lock up.
There are three automatic adjusters in the system, including the balancer.
It will *never* be necessary to adjust the cable at the parking brake lever.
-More detail: http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=70877
-NOTE: If your rear shoes are lasting forever, then they probably aren't doing much of any work.
The rear of the vehicle raising abnormally high on otherwise normal stops, can be an indication of this.
Problems removing rear brake drum from wheel ?
- -Drums may have a few non-beveled threaded holes. (likely need to be cleaned up with a tap)
-Matching thread, hardened bolts may be used to gradually torque drums free from hub
-Before reinstalling drums, coat hub contact surfaces with anti-sieze lubricant.
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