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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I learned a valuable lesson the other day, you're supposed to hold a hill with your brakes, not your clutch. I was on a pretty steep incline waiting for a light to change, and what I had been taught, was to keep the clutch and gas just right so you won't have to roll back really quickly when the light turns, you can just go. Little did I realize that can fry a clutch faster than I can type (which is pretty fast :p). I explained the symptoms to a few members in the chat the other day, but didn't really get an answer.

Once I got over the hill, I knew something was wrong, the car filled with the smell of something aweful, and the I could barely keep the car from stalling when starting out at a light. I let the car rest for a day, then started it up, thinking the clutch might have just overheated, it felt a little better, but still isn't what it used to be. Now I'm faced with buying a new clutch, it's the only thing I can think of right now, and since I'm going to replace it, I might as well go big, I just need to know what to buy. I saw one on zxtuner.com (the only one they have) for about $350. I also saw a few on unorthodoxracing.com (http://unorthodoxracing.com/ford_escort.html). I'm guessing the top of line there is the stage 2 6 paddle sprung hub clutch. Is that what I want? What is the difference between the sprung hub and the solid hub? Is there really a big difference between 4 and 6 paddle clutches? Wtf is a paddle?

Also, I just got my clear corners in the mail today and they look awesome, unfortunately they don't fit as well as the stock ones, and they're more clear than my headlights. I used skuce's headlight cleaning tutorial and it worked well at getting the yellow out, but they aren't as clear as I'd like them to be, would I be better off just going out and buying new lenses? Or is there a good way to get them crystal clear?

Edit: Oh, and I forgot, my girlfriend wants me to follow her to college to move some stuff into our apartment tomorrow. She's moving in Monday and I'll be moving over there in a few months. It's about 700 miles round trip, would it be ok for me to drive that far on a bad clutch? Or does something like that not really matter?
 

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yep you fried off the padding on your clutch. My suggestion is when you replace you clutch check your flywheel, it could need to be ground down smooth, if not replaced altogether. Also while you're in there replace the throwout bearing.

$350 for a clutch isn't bad. When my cluth blew out two weeks after I bought my Escort in November of 01, the shop charged me a total of $650 dollars to replace it. I could have done it for 400 now that I look back on it. stupid waste of cash shop... :evil:

forgot to mention this: I wouldn't drive that much with a bad clutch. mine was in pretty bad shape, and when i shifted into second, it just exploded, I knew immediately when it happened, and I'm surprised I made it home that night....being only 7 miles away. If you have another car i'd suggest using that or borrowing someones car instead of driving yours.
 

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I am just curious as to what kind of escorts you both have and what type of clutch you replaced your stocker with...I do all my own work to my car and I spent 150 for the clutch and pressure plate and throwout bearing...the job was fairly easy so I was just astounded at the prices that you guys are paying...and NO NO NO, dont drive that distance with the clutch that you have now, would suck ass to get down the road with a bunch of stuff packed in your car and Boom, no locomotion....best to drive something else or borrow if ya can, I have to agree with James on that 1
 

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phkr, I have no idea what he replaced it with. The invoice says: Clutch; MU1121-1 on it.

I took it to the shop and it took them 4 days to do it. i asked them to save the clutch so i could see how bad it was, but they threw it away by the time i got there to pay for it and pick it up. Here's what my receipt says:

Parts
Clutch: $202.67.
The slave cylinder: $65.44.
Fluid: $8.40.

Labor
Check clutch $253.58.
Resurface flywheel: $41.50.
Then they replaced the cylinder and bled the system: $52.83.

Getting ripped off for a very necessary repair: Priceless

Sorry I had to throw that in there.


The total came out to $306.41 for the labor and $284.01 for parts... or $646.12 out of my wallet. This occured at 82,502 miles...less than 400 miles after i bought the car. 8O :cry:

But this clutch has been very good to me. I beat up on it and it hasn't missed a beat.
 

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Thats right, you did shatter your clutch didnt ya...but I will tell you this, they did rip ya off....like I said in my earlier post..I got back to the factory clutch and got all I needed for the install for $150.00 and no probs..clutch went on mine at about 208k, so I cant complain with it...and I would have also bitched about the clutch being thrown away...sounds kinda iffy to me, specialy if they knew you wanted to see it
 

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James92Scort said:
i asked them to save the clutch so i could see how bad it was, but they threw it away by the time i got there to pay for it and pick it up.
Those ignant muthaf*ckas...

It's sh*t like this that the shops pull that really pisses me off. God I hate them so much and I swear to god I'll never let a little pompus ******* prick touch my pile of rust car again...

My story:

Went in to have the oxygen sensor taken out. I already took off the heatshield and the radiator fan so they could get in there and take it out. It should have been like a 20 second pull-it-out job, just take out the old one, and put in the bosch one I gave them.

Well anyway, they end up stripping the threads on both the manifold and the brand freakin new sensor I give them, completely destroying both. THEN, not only do they just say "sorry man we f'd up your car" but they REPLACE the manifold, o2 sensor, AND my reverse light switch (which STILL doesn't work- I told those morons that it wasn't the switch that was the problem), AND a headlight, when I SPECIFICALLY said to them "don't touch anything but the o2 sensor without asking me. THEN, on top of that, they end up burning a hole in my intake tube with a utility light when they were working on it.

God I wanted to freakin kill those bastards. The bill ended up being like 400 dollars, and when you work a freakin minimum wage job with assholes that opress you, 400 bucks is a freakin lot of money. God I almost cried and vowed to never let a shop touch my car. So far it's been almost 6 months and I've spent less than 100 bucks on repairs and it runs great.

Either way, the sooner you learn to not become dependant, the happier you will be.

</rant>
 

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m0nk said:
I'm guessing the top of line there is the stage 2 6 paddle sprung hub clutch. Is that what I want? What is the difference between the sprung hub and the solid hub? Is there really a big difference between 4 and 6 paddle clutches? Wtf is a paddle?

Edit: Oh, and I forgot, my girlfriend wants me to follow her to college to move some stuff into our apartment tomorrow. She's moving in Monday and I'll be moving over there in a few months. It's about 700 miles round trip, would it be ok for me to drive that far on a bad clutch? Or does something like that not really matter?
Use the handbrake next time to keep yourself from rolling back until you're ready to go, and you feel the clutch just starting to grab.

Those top of the line clutches are not meant for stock engines.. they're made for really high HP engines where boost and nitrous power can overpower the friction of a stock clutch. A stock clutch is a nearly solid disk.


A 6 paddle clutch will look like this:


And a 4 paddle, like this:


The less friction material you use, the stronger they hold, but the more harshly they engage. The less the clutch disk weighs, the easier fast shifts will be on the transmission (since the syncros won't let you slip the tranny into another gear until the input shaft and the clutch disc are spinning at the correct speed) A 4 or 3 paddle ('puck') clutch will engage like an on/off switch.. you either stall or the car will jump forward. These are not good for the street.

A 6 puck is a reasonable alternative. Unless you're planning on seriously adding some more power to your scort.. a stage 1 upgrade should be all you'd need.

Edit: Almost forgot.. You can see the sprung hubs on the first two pics.. and the solid hub on the other. The springs help to reduce driveline stress when you drop the clutch. Except for racing applications where a grenade motor & tranny are expected to last through a few races before a rebuild, you want a sprung hub.

As for the long trip.. does your clutch actually slip right now? You won't notice the slipping as much in the lower gears. Cruise down the road in 5th and accelerate for a bit. If it isn't slipping in 5th gear, your clutch may not be all that bad. You can burn up a little of the clutch (enough to smell it).. glaze the compound, and still have plenty left.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, listening to my better judgement, I didn't go on the trip. Eventually I want to replace the engine with something a bit more powerful and hopefully have a turbo with it. If I buy a new clutch now, will I have to buy a new clutch then too, or does it depend on the engine? A stage 2 clutch would be relatively pointless right now, but if I'm planning on doing those mods, would it be worthwhile to buy it now and save up for the new engine? Or should I just get a 6 puck stage 1 and call it good? Or should I just run to the boneyard and get a stock clutch?

Thanks for all your help, guys.
 

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m0nk said:
Or should I just run to the boneyard and get a stock clutch?
Are you talking about a junkyard? For the love of God, do not get a clutch (or ANY engine parts) out of a junkyard, unless they come with documentation and a warranty.

Go to autozone, get the cheapest thing they have.
Resurface your flywheel.
Replace your throwout bearing.
Let me emphasize, resurface your flywheel.

Are you going to be doing this yourself or paying out your ass to have someone do it for you?

If the car still drives fine, there's really no need to replace it. Just because it "feels different" doesn't mean it's done for... but that's your call. Generally, blowing out a clutch entirely won't hurt anything other than the clutch itself. It's just a pain in the ass cuz you don't know when it's gonna happen. Put the car in 5th gear, take her up close to 120 and see if the clutch slips at all. If not, you probably don't have anything to worry about.

By the time you have the time, parts, and money to upgrade to your 500hp turbo super engine, you can just throw that $350 clutch in then. Until then, don't beat up on an expensive race clutch if you don't need to. A race clutch on a stock engine isn't gonna do anything but make it harder to drive.
 

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Auto zone has some of the cheapest clutches I have seen and they are factory replacements, thats what I got and its doing fine..When I replaced my clutch, it took about two days to finish because of other probs with the car, such as stripped bolts and such..Plus, I live by the term "If you want something done right,Do it yourself"...has worked for me for quite awhile..And Siragan, sorry to hear about all the hell you went through with your ride as well...people these days think as if $ is easy to come by, but for most of us, it isnt, and these phkrs go around tearing our sh!t up, it pisses me off quite highly...thats why I now do all my own work..I was tired of getting screwed by the mechanics at shops, so I said to hell with it, I will do it myself and fix it or get another damn car...thank god I actually fixed my problems...honestly guys, if there is anything to a car that you can do yourself with just a little bit of time and effort, best you do it..specially for a clutch, not at all a hard thing to do and not many tools needed for the job, plus its not like you dont have enough people on here to walk you through most of the job :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes I'm planning on doing all the work myself, how do I resurface the flywheel?

Thanks for your help again, I guess I will just go to autozone, $80 sure beats $530 :p
 

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well, as for myself...i have never had the flywheel resufaced......I believe that might be the only thing that you need to have a shop do, the resurfacing that its..I know I should have had it done as well,but it is doing fine for me with no probs...but I would suggest finding a shop that you can trust to do this work for you, if the flywheel itself is severly scored, i know that you will need to replace it,also any chips or cracks warrants replacement as well
 

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Or, if you're serious about building a powerful motor.. invest in a new aluminum flywheel.

Every once in a while you can find a shop where some old hot rodders know the nearly dead art of lightening your stock flywheel. They can resurface it, and shave a few lbs of material off of the outer edge on the rear of the wheel. If you're interested.. ask around, and avoid anyone who says they can do it for sure.. a real expert will want to take a look at the flywheel before he can tell you anything. You don't want one that's been lightened incorrectly it'll grenade (and the clutches on the scorts are right in front of the driver!).

The lighter your flywheel, the worse the engine will idle, and the less it will coast.. but the revs will climb and fall more quickly because they'll absorb less energy, which means more power to the wheels and faster shifts.
 

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Beaverboy said:
Or, if you're serious about building a powerful motor.. invest in a new aluminum flywheel.

Every once in a while you can find a shop where some old hot rodders know the nearly dead art of lightening your stock flywheel. They can resurface it, and shave a few lbs of material off of the outer edge on the rear of the wheel. If you're interested.. ask around, and avoid anyone who says they can do it for sure.. a real expert will want to take a look at the flywheel before he can tell you anything. You don't want one that's been lightened incorrectly it'll grenade (and the clutches on the scorts are right in front of the driver!).

The lighter your flywheel, the worse the engine will idle, and the less it will coast.. but the revs will climb and fall more quickly because they'll absorb less energy, which means more power to the wheels and faster shifts.
i love you beaver..

dood.. don't get an aluminum flywheel unless you want to re-learn how to drive your car, which will be hard since we're having this whole convo because you couldn't drive it correctly in the first place. An aluminum flywheel will lower the rotational mass to the point that a safe idle speed won't have enough momentum behind it to get you moving off the line, and you'll stall more often and make yourself look like an ass overall :)
it does not put more power to the wheels (a clutch grabs all flywheels to the same specs for the most part) but the engine will jump around the rpms faster and in theoretical speaking make you shift faster.. which i wouldn't worry about until you were used to a 5speed and had everything under control.
that's my 2cent on the aluminum.

take the flywheel off, take it to a shop, see if they can lighten it, if not, no big deal, just have it resurfaced, it'll be like $30. It's worth it. believe me.

also, when you're done, make sure you properly break in the new clutch. just act like you're a grandma driving your car for the first 500 miles or so and you'll be set to go man. good luck!
 
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