clutch adjustment? | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

clutch adjustment?

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.8L DOHC' started by truth90, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. truth90

    truth90 New Member

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    hello!!

    i need to bleed my clutch and i figured since im at it i might as well adjust it, because it lets out way to early. as soon as i let the pedal off the floor it wants to grab.

    can someone please tell me how to adjust the clutch? thanks
  2. 88scortgt

    88scortgt FEOA Member

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    Direct from the '95 Ford Service Manual...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  3. BOSS302man

    BOSS302man FEOA Donator

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    Don't adjust the clutch until you bleed it properly as that as an affect on the clutch pedal.
  4. me19875

    me19875 New Member

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    +1

    bleed it first. when you look under there it's stupid easy to adjust, there are 2 nuts on a rod that you loosen and tighten to adjust it.

    when i bled mine, it nothing would happen when i bled it just by pumping the pedal and loosening the bleeder. i had to actually use one of the shop vacuum bleeders. there was like a thick chunk of sludge blocking it at first.
  5. Bomdoutscort

    Bomdoutscort FEOA Member

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    There is a rod that has a bolt on it that the clutch pedal pushes in. Loosen that bolt and adjust accordingly
  6. systek

    systek New Member

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    What if the master or slave cylinders have never been cracked opened and bled?
  7. Bomdoutscort

    Bomdoutscort FEOA Member

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    You need to ask a question at what your trying to get at.
  8. DrunkinMist

    DrunkinMist FEOA Member

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    If you bleed the master i want to see that as for the slave just have a friend help you and bleed the slave.

    I had the same problem and thought it was out of adjustment turned out that the slave was the problem cheap fix. NAPA was 10.75 with tax.
  9. Guitardrumr

    Guitardrumr FEOA Member

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    Honestly, my clutch is set up like that, and I prefer it that way. Makes for quicker shifts, and I don't have to try and guess where it disengages when I'm shifting quickly. Pedal to the floor, come off the floor and there's the clutch.
  10. Blairman

    Blairman FEOA Member

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    Okay hear is my question I had an guys try an help me with my pedal adjustment and messed it all up what I'm asking is what is the measurement that the pedal is supposed to reach at its highest point I have like 3inches off free play is the how to edit highest point supposed to be like 7 inches off the floor? With 1/2" free play ??
  11. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    If the GT clutch mechanism id like the LX, with a hydraulic clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, the only adjustment is limited to the length of the pushrod that goes into the master cylinder. You want the clutch pedal to move about 1/8" to 1/4" before that pushrod is actually moving the guts inside the clutch master cylinder. And for proper operation, it will need to be fully bled; which might take a while.
    I think the pedal will start to let the clutch engage when the pedal is more than 1 to 1..5 inches away from rhe floor.
  12. Cemore00

    Cemore00 New Member

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    New to the site, but I have a question regarding the clutch... so I have a '94 GT with the 5 speed manual, and a couple days ago when coming home from work, my clutch totally went out. Like pushing it all the way to the floor, there is no resistance. It's like the slave cylinder is not working, like it feels that clutch when you first start to bleed it. The master cylinder reservoir is full, no leaking from slave cylinder, and a week or so ago, I could feel the clutch slipping just a bit when letting the pedal out. I put a new slave on it probably 8 months ago, and a new clutch in it about a year ago... so is the plunger bad that connects to the pedal or is something more serious wrong internally in the trans? Fork im sure is bent, popped outta 5th about 3 yrs ago and 2nd gear the synchros are gone. (All bc I lost the front motor mount bolt and the whole motor rocked forward all when doing 75mph) I have another 5spd trans and 1.8 motor, and Aamco wants 9 bills to rebuild the trans IF they can find parts... any thoughts or suggestions would b greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  13. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I dont know if something is wrong inside the trans, but I would start by doing two things. First, have someone push the clutch pedal down and see if the slave cylinder moves the outer end of the release fork, and if it moves it what seems like the correct amount.

    Next check the trans fluid. This involves removing the Vehicle Speed Sensor, which may be a super seriously difficult task. The VSS can get corroded at the top of where its fits into the hold in the differential area of the transaxle, and grabbing it with pliers from the plastic upper part will simply snap that off. If you do a search on these forums, you will find quite a few postings dealing with that. I dont know of any easy solutions. There is no other way to know about the fluid level. I doubt that fluid being low would cause the problem with your clutch pedal, but it could have to do with losing the synchromesh function when shifting.

    I have two 5-speed Escorts, both of which have given me that clutch-pedal-goes-to-the-floor type of failure. With one of them it was a slave cylinder that was only a year old, but my brake fluid was dirty with water; and I guess corrosion resulted, and the clutch master cylinder was beginning to leak fluid down the inside of the firewall. (Dirty brake fluid is visible as a dark coloring of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir). To fix this, I replaced the clutch slave and master cylinder, along with the brake master cylinder, and did a complete bleed of the brakes and clutch. Doing the brakes first though. Since then the clutch has behaved on that car, for almost a decade now.
    With my other 5-speed Escort, it was a badly burnt clutch disc, that got roasted into what looked like steel wool. This I learned when I took the trans/engine out of the car. My daughter had been driving the car, so I dont know what she or her friends did to it, but she drove it till it wouldnt move anymore. Then she called me! It had probably been slipping but she didnt notice.
    To fix that I replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate, flywheel, and the clutch hydraulics and bled all the brakes and clutch.

    Many members on these forums see the 5-speed transmission as being better than the automatic transmissions. Some have even done conversions. In my case, I had an Escort with the auto transmission which I liked, and wanted to see what it was like to drive the 5-speed ones. Rather than do a conversion (which makes it hard to pass an emissions test in northern VA) I bought a 5-speed, that needed a clutch and other work.

    I have had in-laws who dealt with AAMCO locations, and I consider them to be predators as much as repairmen. When you say nine bills, do you mean $900? One big problem is they can charge a lot more than that, since they will have your car apart when they tell you news about needing more money. If the transmission in your car has any small amount of fluid still in it, I would think it doesnt need rebuilt. They take something like 3.5 quarts, and would likely still be fine if it only had 2 quarts. Unfortunately you can tell if the trans is full (by looking at the gear on the VSS), but if its below that point, it might be nearly out of fluid, and you cant tell.
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2018
    Cemore00 likes this.

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