I think its going to be easier to undo the calipers from the bracket they mount to, rather than to undo any brake hose to brake line connection.
You are not supposed to let the calipers hang down via the brake hose, but should use a wire to hook the caliper up - so the brake hose is not being 'pulled' out of the ferrules at the ends.
You should try to mark the relative positions of how the strut is mounted into the upper part of the spindle with the hub in it. This is what establishes your camber, and affects the toe-in too. Even so, you would want to check the camber, and if it looks good, to check the toe-in in the next day or two afterward.
If the car still gives you a 'clunk' on rough surfaces, have a good look at the rear struts. Look for broken springs or damaged strut 'pistons'. I had one of the springs break. A year later I got tired of hearing the noises, and replaced that spring (plus got a new strut). I cant tell that it rides better, but it doesnt make noises anymore. Bad bushings on the antisway bar can make clunks, and probably also a motor mount that is loose, or ripped.
To get the large nuts loose - an impact wrench would be okay, but you will have to hold the bolt from turning too. Those nuts are the 'prevailing torque' type, like a locknut. They are supposed to be super snug on the threads of the bolts.
You may have to use a lever to move the spindle downward, when you go to remove the strut - due to the lower control arm and the antisway bar bushings, holding the spindle up.
When reinstalling the nuts/bolts that hold the strut to the upper part of the spindle, I would use a torque wrench to do the tightening, not an impact wrench.
I presume the strut kits include the bearing at the top of the strut that allows for the steering to turn the strut left-right.
Good Luck...