Drivetrain - Clunk after shift 99 Escort automatic. | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Drivetrain Clunk after shift 99 Escort automatic.

Discussion in 'Drivetrains' started by ethangsmith, Feb 6, 2014.

  1. ethangsmith

    ethangsmith FEOA Member

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    Here's a puzzler for all of you-

    1999 Escort LX automatic, 145K miles.

    This clunk comes and goes but is more prevalent during colder months. On acceleration from a stop, when the automatic shifts from 1 to 2, it shifts and the rpms drop and maybe a second after the shift, I get a defined clunk. The engine mounts are all fine, I've had the front sway bar and steering bushings all replaced, I just did both rear struts and springs, and all the ball joints, wheel bearings, and other bushings are in very good shape. The transmission definitely shifts and it's not slipping. It also seems more pronounced when I drive the car for a while, shut it off for a few minutes, and then drive it again. Any thoughts on what to check??? I'm stumped.
  2. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    rear trans mount maybe? Jack up the front of the car and see if the mount has a hole in i. You may need to move the crossmember to see it.
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
  3. ethangsmith

    ethangsmith FEOA Member

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    The mounts are only a year old, but I suppose it's always possible. I actually had the mounts replaced because of this mystery clunk, but it didn't seem to change anything.
  4. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    What brand of mounts were used? The rear one is the most common to fail. If cheap mounts were used, it may have failed again.
  5. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I also suspect the motor mounts.
  6. ethangsmith

    ethangsmith FEOA Member

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    Don't know about the brand used. Took a quick look this evening from the top of the car. The upper engine mount and both lower mounts look just fine. The transmission mount looks a little shady though.....

    Would it cause an intermittent "thump" though? It doesn't do it every time.
  7. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    Probably, before I replaced my bottom mounts. I would have an occasional clunk, and then it started to happen more until the rear mount was replaced.
    Last edited: May 6, 2014
  8. ethangsmith

    ethangsmith FEOA Member

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    During an oil change today, the source of the clunk was discovered. The rear engine mount is totally obliterated- as in there is no rubber left at all. And it's less than 2 years old! It was an Anchor brand mount.

    I know there was some type of poly insert that could be used in the rear mounts. Can you still get them and how do they install? Once I get the new mount, I want to put the poly inserts in so this doesn't happen again!
  9. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    I know Kanak and Madmatt used window weld with good results. It seems that Anchor mounts have issues. I have DEA and they seem to been holding up well.
  10. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    if it is an anchor mount, then it was probably bought at oreilly's. That part has a lifetime warranty for it so you can go in and replace it for free :)

    as far as the insert goes, ES does make an insert for it. It will be the same one as the zx2 uses. The part number for the set is 4.1105G You wont be able to use the front one from this set on your car, but you can sell it to someone with a manual trans escort or zx2 (the zx2 s/r came equipped with a front mount insert). Each part just slips into the corresponding side of the mount

    [​IMG]

    the only real downside of the mount insert is the increased vibration felt in the cabin when at stops
  11. ethangsmith

    ethangsmith FEOA Member

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    I don't think I need more vibration than I already have!

    Here's my current plan of action on this:
    I ordered 2 new OEM Ford mounts. I don't need another Anchor mount failing in a year. When I have them installed, I am going to have the mechanic do the idle neutralization procedure in hopes to reduce some vibration and also stress on the mounts. I've thought about getting the Energy Suspension inserts, but I just fear there will be too much vibration.
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  12. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    Anchor brand mount is what I have in my 2000 SE. It is about 4 years old, no problems to date.
    I advise against the Energy Suspension inserts. My PU filled mounts produced 2 to 3 X vibration on this car.
    I am betting the neutralization procedure will help reduce the vibrations, it did on my car.
    Very important: Make sure when the rear mount is installed it is free to move around and not in a bind. Elongate the bolt holes as needed to make free. Check after the engine is lifted and is in the neutralization position.
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  13. LariRudi

    LariRudi FEOA Donator

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    Does anybody know what the procedure is for this "neutralization procedure"?

    I've always been a proponent that things most often are just "not the same" after "moving the engine around" and then "bolting it back in".

    thx,

    LarryR
  14. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    Did you look at this posting, it should answer your questions? https://www.feoa.net/threads/idle-vibration-solved.73844/

    I need to do the neutralization procedure again on my car this summer. ( Just the lifting with all the mount bolts loose part.) The engine is not free to move around in the mounts like it was right after I did the neutralization procedure when I installed the new mounts several years ago. The vibrations are getting worse at stop in drive, especially with the AC on.
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  15. ethangsmith

    ethangsmith FEOA Member

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    Engine mounts replaced ANDDDDDD.......

    The clunk after the shift is STILL THERE. The idle neutralization procedure was done with OEM Ford mounts and it did dampen vibration quite a bit during driving. The Anchor mounts were pretty beat up. The mechanic said the rear mount was severely distorted and hard to remove. He said that after he slotted the crossmember and made the adjustments, the rear mount was no longer distorted and the front mount was nicely centered as well. So at least these mounts should last longer than 2 years!

    So back to the clunk- At this point I'm guessing something in the transmission or drive axles. Thoughts?

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