Charged system, No ac.escort gt | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Charged system, No ac.escort gt

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.8L DOHC' started by 96escortgt, Jul 13, 2017.

  1. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    Recently acquired a 96 escort GT from someone who knew nothing of the car. 106k original miles on it, went to charge AC due to it not working, and it was fully charged! just no cold air. I believe blend door issues, as there is very little resistance on the slider, and I do not here any noises or anything when sliding it from hot to cold, and clicking the AC button. I also do not here the compressor engaging, which leads me to believe that the blend door or something related to it is not properly engaging to even get the compressor to kick. So, is there any easy way to diag a blend door on this vehicle, or am I going to have to remove the entire dash....? perhaps maybe pull the climate panel and manually move the wires by hand? or does it have an actuator motor that I could attempt to jump manually? Please let me know, id rather not go tearing into the dash. And there really isn't much to go on around the internet after a few hours of googling in terms of guides and what not..im trying to get ahold of a ford workshop manual but that isn't working out very well. The heat works fine, by the way.
  2. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    Or perhaps a tip or picture or even a wiring diagram on how to jump the high and low pressure switches to get the clutch to kick on the compressor
  3. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    blend door has nothing to do with the compressor not working. the pcm controls the coil clutch relay, and the pressure switch is inline with that circuit. best way to test the compressor coil is to jump power to it at the relay

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  4. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    My Escorts are all the LX kind, but I think the a.c. system is the same.
    I dont think you can see the "air blend door" with the dash in place, but you can see if the plastic control that pivots it is moving. Down low on the driver's side of the console, the wire from the temp control gets connected to the plastic control item. The end of the cable may have come off the little pin it moves, or the cable sheath might have come loose from the clip that holds it,. You probably cant see this without stopping down to look horizontally at the side of the console, next to the gas pedal. Also the cable may have broken off the temp control lever.


    Another thing to check, is to have the engine idling and turn on the a.c. system, including having the interior blower motor running.

    The compressor clutch should be seen to be engaged and spinning. Look down past the power steering pump pulley on the passenger-front side of the engine. Also the radiator fan should come within a few seconds. Then the low side hose (the small diameter one running around the back of the engine compartment) should feel cool. The small diameter hose leading from the compressor to the drivers side of the condenser should of course get hot.
    The compressor might cycle on and off, but should be on at least as much as it is off.

    The other reason for "no cooling" might be that the a.c. system is clogged up inside; either the proportioning valve (inside the small diameter line behind the air filter housing) could be clogged, or the compressor could be clogged. If so, even a fully charged system wont provide cool air.

    As far as I know, the heater control has no effect on the operation of the a.c. compressor, other than the interior heater blower needs to be on for the a.c. compressor to run.

    Sorry I have no info on how to bypass the high and low limit switch or switches.
  5. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    easy. jump power to pin 30 of the relay or pin "2" as its stated in the wiring diagram i posted. if the clutch engages.. then you have a control side problem. if not, you have a bad compressor and or clutch coil. or you can unhook the connector from the compressor and jump power directly to the connector
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  6. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    Thank you so much for your replies. I shall be locating the A/C relay and jumping pin 2 as stated in the diagram to see if the clutch functions. Thank you denisond3 for explaining where I can locate the control wires and all of that. Ive really been having a tricky time finding info for this vehicle, which kind of surprises me. But ill be tracking down the control wire, then getting under the hood and trying to get that clutch engaging. Thank you again
  7. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    powering up pin 2 is direct power from the relay to the clutch coil. by providing power here, you can test the clutch to verify if its good or bad. that will tell you that you either have a control side issue, power supply issue, or a wiring issue. its highly unlikely the pcm is bad. its more likely that the clutch coil, cycling and or high pressure switches are bad. it is also possible the system is over charged, but most of the time wont cut out until the ac is run for a few sec. 134a pressure is porportional to ambient temp. so unless its 300* outside....
  8. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    nope just a nice 90degree Michigan day today. gotta wait till 7 when im off work to check. if I can jump the clutch Ill just start working my way backwards towards the pressure switches and backwards. Gonna be soooooooo much fun....I cant wait.
  9. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    its not bad. best place to start is the compressor.. being a ford, its probably melted at the connector, working on one right now.
    the compressor connector will have 2 pins (usually) all you need to do is put ground to one and power to the other. best to use a fused jumper wire, but if nothing happens then you have a bad compressor coil/clutch. if something does happen, then follow the wiring diagram backwards to the relay. jump power there and let us know how it goes. we can get this figured out.

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  10. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    i just meant its always fun to have jumper wires and fingers next to spinning pulleys :D ill stick to working on my VW products after this one. ill come back and update around 10pm. thank you again.
  11. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    you dont need it running to test it. you dont even need the key in the car.

    i HATE workin on vw. 'beauty in complexity" says the krauts... thanks but you can have it.
  12. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    Got that right, I love driving my Jetta but a lot of complex stuff to keep going.
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  13. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    So. Out working on it till 2am. Fucking little bolt holding dis. Cap on snapped off ._. That was fun extracting. But. Anyway. A control cable to blend door was off. Fixed. Blend door functions as designed now, one wire to ace compressor was frayed, fixed that, when set to ac, and the ac turned on, I can hear compressor kick on. As soon as I turn blower motor from 0 to 1 kicks on as soon as it's supposed to, appears to be functioning as designed, however, still no cold air. I think there may be a clog in the cooling system? But wouldn't that cause a high pressure situation? The compressor comes on and stays on just like it's supposed to.
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  14. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    is the fan running when compressor is on? how long did you pull a vacuum on the system before charging? is the suction hose getting cold where it comes out of the dash and goes back to compressor?
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  15. 96escortgt

    96escortgt FEOA Member

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    Yes, the fan comes on as soon as the compressor kicks on, and as for pulling vacuum, when we got the vehicle, I went to charge the system, but found that it was already charged to factory specs. and no, it does not appear that any lines are getting cold.
  16. bent_rod

    bent_rod FEOA Donator

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    Sounds like my 2000 SE, factory compressor went bad, 5 years later the new Chinese replacement compressor went bad. If you pull out the orifice tube I think you will see a lot of black/gray junk in the screen. That is from a bad compressor.
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
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  17. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    you will need to find the use of an ac gauge set, or a recovery station. what i would suggest is have a facility evacuate the system, pull a vacuum and recharge it. its possible that the previous owners put too much refrigerant in the system
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