Changing Clutch pedal master and slave cylinder (clutch sticking) | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

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Changing Clutch pedal master and slave cylinder (clutch sticking)

Discussion in 'ZX2 1998-2004 2.0L DOHC' started by 99Zx2Blue, Jul 3, 2020.

  1. 99Zx2Blue

    99Zx2Blue New Member

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    Hi all, new to the forum. My skill level has been up to replacing brakes, underdrive pully, rear sway bar, fuel filter and the usual maintenance things like spark plugs and oil changes. Does anyone know what happened to teamzx2.com? It was only about 2 years ago I received a birthday greeting from them.

    Anyway, to the point. My clutch just started sticking where the pedal will intermittently go to the floor but the clutch remains engaged. Luckily I wasn't too far from home when it started. I topped off the brake fluid reservoir. I looked it up on youtube and it doesn't seem like too difficult a fix. Has anyone had experience with this and anything I should know?

    Two more questions. I am concerned about bleeding the air out of the line when everything is replaced. Is there anything to be aware of?

    Finally, I usually order from Rockauto.com. Does anyone know what brand is the most reliable to go with?

    Thanks
    99Zx2Blue, Jul 3, 2020
    #1
  2. Swift

    Swift FEOA Donator

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    Most likely the slave, it's just two bolts on the trans housing along with the hard line. Break the hairline loose first as mine was really stuck, had to use vice grips to break it loose, my flare wrenches were about to strip the fitting.
    Swift, Jul 3, 2020
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  3. pextor

    pextor Moderator Staff Member

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    The slave isn't hard to replace. If you need more room, you can take the cooling fan off, but that's optional.

    It might take a while to bleed and get all the air out. Take your time.
    pextor, Jul 5, 2020
    #3
  4. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    i had this happen about 500 miles from my home last season. I was able to change out the clutch master and slave in the autozone parking lot in less than an hour and be back on the road and it has not had any issues since.

    at this point with your car i would suggest replacing both parts. The slave is the easy part to change out, the master takes a little more work. It is easiest to change out the master if you are prepared with 3 6inch extensions for your wrench. These make it easy to reach under the dash to remove the one bolt at the pedal support.
    4cylinder, Jul 5, 2020
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  5. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    When I replaced the clutch hydraulics on my 2nd gen LX escorts, I took out the drivers seat and put a plank down, so I could lie on my back and reach the nut holding the clutch pedal in.
    And bleeding the clutch hydraulics takes mostly patience.
    denisond3, Jul 6, 2020
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  6. marclar

    marclar Administrator Staff Member

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    general rule,... if you replace one.. replace them both.
    marclar, Jul 6, 2020
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  7. Defunct SR Owner

    Defunct SR Owner FEOA Member

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    If you have an air compressor, then go to Harbor Freight and buy their power bleeder, it works well for the $20 or so that I paid for it. It still took awhile but you don't have to pump the pedal for a half hour...
    Defunct SR Owner, Jul 30, 2020
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  8. coonmanx

    coonmanx FEOA Member

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    Would probably do both of them at the same time. I used Wagner and Sachs parts that I got off of Ebay for reliability. Also would not be a bad idea to get the whole system bled if the fluid looks dark and crappy....
    coonmanx, Jul 31, 2020
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  9. jeremydepp50

    jeremydepp50 New Member

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    The slave and master cylinder have seals that are not only under a great deal of pressure but are subject to temperature changes as well that can cause them to harden, crack, or shrink. Any slight change can cause a leak that will leave your clutch with no pressure to work properly.
    jeremydepp50, Oct 8, 2020
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  10. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    My Escorts are all the SOHC LX kind. I have replaced the clutch hydraulics on my two 5-speeds. In one car, the pedal would sometimes cause the clutch to release, but sometimes with the pedal to the flloor - I still had trouble changing gears; or had to pump the pedal a couple of times.
    So I got a new clutch master cylinder and a new slave cylinder, replacing both at the same time. It was a fair amount of work, and done by removing the battery and battery try - to reach the clutch master cylinder. I also took out the driver's seat, and put down a plank so I could like flat under the dash, to reach the nut holding the clutch master cylinder, and the small nuts for the clutch release switch which are in the way. I also had the air filter and the large rubber air inlet removed, for better access to the bolts holding the slave cylinder on the bell housing.
    With the new clutch master cylinder installed, I connected up the rubber tube that feeds to it from the brake master cylinder, and using a pair of pliers, kept squeezing the rubber tube till no more air bubbles showed up in the tubing brake master cylinder reservoir.
    Bleeding the slave cylinder took a while. I dont have any way to hurry things. I opened the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder 1/4 turn, and put a length of clear vinyl hose over it, with the upper end of that hose where I could see it from inside the car; and with the end of the clear hose pushed into a soda bottle to keep the brake fluid off my engine stuff.
    Then I kept pumping the pedal (a lot), and slowly the bubbles stopped appearing in the clear hose - and I could shut the bleeder screw. I think it took me an hour after the slave and clutch master cylinders were all mounted before I had a good clutch pedal.

    When I order from rockauto, I normally buy a part that is not the cheapest, nor the most expensive.
    denisond3, Oct 8, 2020
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