Changing Clutch pedal master and slave cylinder (clutch sticking) | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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Changing Clutch pedal master and slave cylinder (clutch sticking)

Discussion in 'ZX2 1998-2004 2.0L DOHC' started by 99Zx2Blue, Jul 3, 2020.

  1. 99Zx2Blue

    99Zx2Blue New Member

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    Hi all, new to the forum. My skill level has been up to replacing brakes, underdrive pully, rear sway bar, fuel filter and the usual maintenance things like spark plugs and oil changes. Does anyone know what happened to teamzx2.com? It was only about 2 years ago I received a birthday greeting from them.

    Anyway, to the point. My clutch just started sticking where the pedal will intermittently go to the floor but the clutch remains engaged. Luckily I wasn't too far from home when it started. I topped off the brake fluid reservoir. I looked it up on youtube and it doesn't seem like too difficult a fix. Has anyone had experience with this and anything I should know?

    Two more questions. I am concerned about bleeding the air out of the line when everything is replaced. Is there anything to be aware of?

    Finally, I usually order from Rockauto.com. Does anyone know what brand is the most reliable to go with?

    Thanks
  2. Swift

    Swift FEOA Donator

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    Most likely the slave, it's just two bolts on the trans housing along with the hard line. Break the hairline loose first as mine was really stuck, had to use vice grips to break it loose, my flare wrenches were about to strip the fitting.
  3. pextor

    pextor Moderator Staff Member

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    The slave isn't hard to replace. If you need more room, you can take the cooling fan off, but that's optional.

    It might take a while to bleed and get all the air out. Take your time.
  4. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    i had this happen about 500 miles from my home last season. I was able to change out the clutch master and slave in the autozone parking lot in less than an hour and be back on the road and it has not had any issues since.

    at this point with your car i would suggest replacing both parts. The slave is the easy part to change out, the master takes a little more work. It is easiest to change out the master if you are prepared with 3 6inch extensions for your wrench. These make it easy to reach under the dash to remove the one bolt at the pedal support.
  5. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    When I replaced the clutch hydraulics on my 2nd gen LX escorts, I took out the drivers seat and put a plank down, so I could lie on my back and reach the nut holding the clutch pedal in.
    And bleeding the clutch hydraulics takes mostly patience.
  6. marclar

    marclar Moderator Staff Member

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    general rule,... if you replace one.. replace them both.
    coonmanx and denisond3 like this.
  7. Defunct SR Owner

    Defunct SR Owner FEOA Member

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    If you have an air compressor, then go to Harbor Freight and buy their power bleeder, it works well for the $20 or so that I paid for it. It still took awhile but you don't have to pump the pedal for a half hour...
    denisond3 likes this.
  8. coonmanx

    coonmanx FEOA Member

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    Would probably do both of them at the same time. I used Wagner and Sachs parts that I got off of Ebay for reliability. Also would not be a bad idea to get the whole system bled if the fluid looks dark and crappy....

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