Car stalling?
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its normal for the car to idle high when cold then fall to 1000 RPM when warmMirage said:
but as for stalling when does it stall?
it cant rev to a 1000 if it has stalled already
unless you mean i idles so low that it sounds like it going to stall then revs up again
if so i would look for a vacume leak
its normal for the car to idle high when cold then fall to 1000 RPM when warm
but as for stalling when does it stall?
it cant rev to a 1000 if it has stalled already
unless you mean i idles so low that it sounds like it going to stall then revs up again
if so i would look for a vacume leak[/quote]
ok, it seems to be an itermitnet problem. some times it runs fine. mostly it seems to run fine if I just jump in and run it (cold) or after I let it sit and runn up to temp, like if I let it run for 30 min..
now if it is just kinda wasm (like running for 5 min..) I Go to put the clutch in (its a stick) and as soon as I hit the gas it eater stalls or the RPMs drop below normal, like it wants to stall.
It seems that, when the car is acting up, if I hit the gas lightly, like ease it down, it will stay runing. but if I try to aply "normle" presure it stalls. the big problem is this seem to be intermint. it seemed to go away this summer and now is back to doing it sometimes now that it is cold..
any ideas?
but as for stalling when does it stall?
it cant rev to a 1000 if it has stalled already
unless you mean i idles so low that it sounds like it going to stall then revs up again
if so i would look for a vacume leak[/quote]
ok, it seems to be an itermitnet problem. some times it runs fine. mostly it seems to run fine if I just jump in and run it (cold) or after I let it sit and runn up to temp, like if I let it run for 30 min..
now if it is just kinda wasm (like running for 5 min..) I Go to put the clutch in (its a stick) and as soon as I hit the gas it eater stalls or the RPMs drop below normal, like it wants to stall.
It seems that, when the car is acting up, if I hit the gas lightly, like ease it down, it will stay runing. but if I try to aply "normle" presure it stalls. the big problem is this seem to be intermint. it seemed to go away this summer and now is back to doing it sometimes now that it is cold..
any ideas?
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when was the last lime that you tuned up your car
as in plugs, wires, cap, and roter? just before the cold wether hit. a few months ago. it also has a new ignition coil, fule pump and fule filter, alternator, O2 censor and water pump, all done within the last six months. this is why I am so stumped. it sounds like a secor to me but I have swaped out and checked all the ones I can think of that would efect air fule mixture on the car (O2, MAP, EGR) are there any little known sencors that I have not mentioned that may cause this problem?robynhoods said:
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got me, i have no clue on what could be worng. Did you change the air filter
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that would be you vam i might have in extry one
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8,351 Posts
Anything related to temperature= check your thermostat and replace it if necessary.
It sounds like it's necessary.
It sounds like it's necessary.
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The vam is the black and gray box that is bolted to the air filter box
I was thinking that it might be the idle adjuster it's on top of the throttle body
I was thinking that it might be the idle adjuster it's on top of the throttle body
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well it makes sense to me.Diane said:James, sometimes I wonder if your cars are built on a different planet than ours.James92Scort said:
but if thats not the root of the problem at least he knows he has a new thermostat on it.
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There is no reason to toss parts at a car if there not needed trust me on this. I work will 40 million dollar air craft and it dose not fix them when we do it here
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This is a 1990 LX right? CFI engine? I don't think they have an airflow meter. (At least the CFI engines I had didn't) I had trouble with 2 of them showing the same symptom, and a test of the engine electronics gave me a code for the TPS voltage being too low. It turns out the end of the throttle shaft that fits into the sensor was corroded. This made it thinner and let the tps move to far back at idle sometimes. I found a good replacement shaft and all is OK now. I think the DC Idle motor could give you the same kind of failure too. You may want to pull the engine codes before going to much further, saves replacing good parts.
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