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You can slot the strut towers (not my choice) OR buy the shims, made for that task.
 

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YES. May also have a tendency to wander, too.

Have you checked the ball joints, also? :!:
 

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The "correct" way to adjust this is to remove the top strut mount bolts, jack the car up by the body (to let the wheel hang) and this should allow the strut to drop just far enough to rotate the top strut mount.

It is slightly offset to allow 1/2 of a degree of adjustment (IIRC) of camber and caster. I think the rubber "nub" points to the stud the offset is closest to.
 

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1. Remove 4 upper mounting bracket, NOT top center nut.
2. Raise car body.
3. Push the mounting bracket downward and turn direction indicator to desired postion:
Towards Windshield = +14 Min Camber +14 Min Caster
Towards Fender = +29 Min Camber 0 Min Caster
Towards Front = +14 Min Camber -14 Min Caster
 

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What drommer said. I should have been more clear in my post.

I've learned that at stock height, if you are unable to compensate by rotating the mount, then something else is fubar.
 

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drommer said:
1. Remove 4 upper mounting bracket, NOT top center nut.
2. Raise car body.
3. Push the mounting bracket downward and turn direction indicator to desired postion:
Towards Windshield = +14 Min Camber +14 Min Caster
Towards Fender = +29 Min Camber 0 Min Caster
Towards Front = +14 Min Camber -14 Min Caster
Old thread but damn was it helpfull, The drivers side was easy, but the passenger side was a bitch, I couldnt get the strut to go down low enough to turn the upper bracket, even when using a pry bar on the tire to push the tire down. So i tried unhooking the tie rod from the spindle and still couldnt get it down low enough. so I gave up, so the passenger is still pointing towards the engine and the drivers I have adjusted towards the windshield. the outside edge of the both front tires were showing wear bad.
 

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Skeeter said:
drommer said:
1. Remove 4 upper mounting bracket, NOT top center nut.
2. Raise car body.
3. Push the mounting bracket downward and turn direction indicator to desired postion:
Towards Windshield = +14 Min Camber +14 Min Caster
Towards Fender = +29 Min Camber 0 Min Caster
Towards Front = +14 Min Camber -14 Min Caster
Old thread but damn was it helpfull, The drivers side was easy, but the passenger side was a ****, I couldnt get the strut to go down low enough to turn the upper bracket, even when using a pry bar on the tire to push the tire down. So i tried unhooking the tie rod from the spindle and still couldnt get it down low enough. so I gave up, so the passenger is still pointing towards the engine and the drivers I have adjusted towards the windshield. the outside edge of the both front tires were showing wear bad.
I had the same experience as Skeeter. The pass-side strut had way more force than I could overcome to turn the strut mount. Is there a trick on this??

Thanks,

Wade
 

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Or get the whole front end off the ground and unbolt both mounts at the same time.
 

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Those long rails underneath the body are a bad spot for supporting the car. They may distort and crush. Best spot is the control-arm rear mount. If those need to come apart then the hard body outside of them is next best; but will need to cushion the jack-stands with a few layers of old rag to avoid damaging the paint.
 

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Intuit said:
Those long rails underneath the body are a bad spot for supporting the car. They may distort and crush. Best spot is the control-arm rear mount. If those need to come apart then the hard body outside of them is next best; but will need to cushion the jack-stands with a few layers of old rag to avoid damaging the paint.
Duly noted. ;) Previous owner(s) used that area on the car too - a little mangled. Thanks Intuit.
 
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