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Broken timing belt replacement help

10K views 40 replies 7 participants last post by  Kevin Rogerson 
#1 ·
Well if this had a distributor I wouldn't be here asking silly questions....

As the title suggests my timing belt is toast. I have read and reread the haynes manual and it doesn't say ANYthing about resetting TDC after a belt has broken.

Does this mean just set the crank using the mark and use the cam-alignment tool, install new belt and I'm done?

I have the new idler, tensioner, belt, and valve cover gasket. Just wanna make sure that I set TDC properly.

After thinking about it it seems that the CPS and computer would handle the timing and spark but I am unsure of this one point.

Thanks in advance....
 
#2 ·
Here are the instructions for changing the timing belt according to my Chilton's manual.


1. Remove the spark plugs.
2. Rotate the crankshaft to TDC.
3. Locate and remove the plug bolt by the crankshaft position sensor and install the TDC timing peg.
4. Raise and support the car.
5. Unfasten the splash shield bolts and remove the shield.
6. Lower the car and remove the water pump pulley.
7. Remove the valve cover and timing belt covers.
8. Align the camshafts and install the camshaft alignment tool on the back of the camshafts.
9. loosen the tensioner pulley bolt and relieve the tension on the belt by disconnecting the tensioner tab from the timing cover back plate.
10. Slide the belt off the sprockets.
11. Inspect the belt for wear and replace as necessary.
12. Install the timing belt and engage the timing belt tensioner tab into the upper timing cover backplate.
13. Using a 6mm allen wrench adjust the tensioner until the index marks are aligned and tighten the bolt to 17-20 ft. lbs.
14. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise against the TDC alighment peg, then remove the camshaft alignment tool.
15. Remove the TDC peg tool and install the plug bolt.
16. Install the timing and valve covers.
17. Install the water pump pulley and the splash shield.
18. Install the spark plugs.
 
#6 ·
I also found this. If for any reason the engine was disturbed, the cam shafts moved or the sprokets replaced, perform the following procedure.

Make sure the correct notch in the pulley is indexed to the lower cylinder block.

A. Position the crankshaft just prior to TDC.
B. If not already done, locate and remove the plug bolt near the crankshaft position sensor and install the TDC timing peg.
C. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise against the TDC peg.

Installation of the alignment tool into the exhaust camshaft may require the camshafts to be rotated clockwise.

D. Install the camshaft alignment tool on the back of the camshafts.

Everything seems to make me think that there is only one position that the camshaft alignment tool can be positioned. But I'm not sure.
 
#7 ·
From the illustrations that I have seen, it appears that the cam positioning tool can only be put in one way.

I will take a close look at it in the daylight and post my findings here.

It seems that the My original thoughts may be correct but I spose I'll find out soon enough.
 
#11 ·
After spending some time working on the timing belt in earnest (today) I have discovered that, Yes the cam alignment tool will only go in one way.

The Cam lobes at the back end of the engine, where the alignment tool is placed, must be pointed inward to the center of the head. The cam lobes on the front of the engine must point outward. This allows the tool to be inserted properly.

If the cams are 180 degrees off the alignment tool would need to be the thickness of thin sheet metal to be inserted in. The slots at the end of the cam are not centered. This makes it impossible to put the tool in the wrong way.

BTW, the Haynes manual is completely useless, it's telling me to remove things that is unnecessary. According to the instructions I should remove the water pump pulley and the serpentine belt idler pulley. They weren't in my way at all... It doesn't mention to remove the crank pulley, which is completely in the way.

It said to align the second mark on the crank pulley up with the mark on the oil pan. The oil pan mark is there. The pulley has no notches in it... It does have balancing holes drilled in it though, for what good that does me. I'll just use a screw driver in the No.1 piston to locate TDC.

Weather permitting I'll have this done tomorrow. To cold out there to work on it to long. (No garage and lots of snow everywhere)
 
#13 ·
IR_Efrem said:
Is this even allowed? Some guy posting his personal crap from ebay? I do not need a how to video nor do I want one.
If you had invested in ZX2's $10.00 DVD instead of the Haynes's Manual, you would have had a clear picture of how to do the TB with the still on or if it had broken. This guy took a fair bit of time to make this DIY disc which is needed if you look how many Timing Belt posts keep popping up despite their being numerous text descriptions. I got the DVD and assure you it isn't "crap", well worth the couple $$.

BTW, the cam alignment tool can go in 2 ways...with #1 piston on exhaust stroke (#1 lobes aiming IN) and #1 piston on compression stroke (lobes aiming out), the TDC usually used to set cams. You usually have to rotate the EX cam towards the front of the motor to align the slots because of the VCT factor..you'll notice the EX cam can be turned small amounts without its cam gear moving.

You are correct the cam sensor/crank sensor will "sense" the correct cam ignition phase if the belt is broken and the cams are put back in either "TDC" setting as far as #1.
 
#15 ·
The haynes manual was a gift to me $0 ....

The only money I've spent so far has been for actual parts. My VCT is toast and I've been considering getting the delete kit and adjustable gear cuz it's tons cheaper.

I got the belt installed and the car was running Awesome, greater pickup than before holy cow what a difference. Then outta the blue it started running like crap and refuses to idle without holding my foot on the gas a tad. The engine only runs smooth at 1k - 2.4k right now. Having the VCT unplugged or plugged in has no effect. I might try to adjust the exhaust cam a bit manually (god this is gonna suck) and see if it helps. If not then I'll be getting the kit.

There is no way (without using a grinder to modify it) that the cam alignment tool would fit in there in either position, unless I am completely wrong here. I actually tried myself.

Call me a complete jerk if you want but if I ask a question on a forum with normal rules, I can expect 1 of the following: Someone offering advice even if the answer isn't known for sure (which I got), or a direct answer by some one that knows. Not, here buy my crap. Now if I asked, "where can I buy an instructional manual" then yes.....

Thanks for simple answers involved in my questions, I really do appreciate the help.
 
#16 ·
Is this even allowed? You being a retard? I offered the disc in case you wanted or needed a video reference. If you were smart enough to follow the rest of the post I made, you would see that I also told you that a text how-to existed on this site and Team Zx2. But, it seems you are too lazy or dumb to go searching for this info. Instead, you wanted someone to drop the answer right in your lap. All the things you 'figured' out took you longer to do then it would have taken you to go to the Knowledge Base on Team ZX2 or the one here and find the how-to that, guess what, I wrote. I was not asking you to buy my video if you wanted my help. I was offering it if needed and I also gave you the info you needed to find the FREE text version that I wrote. But, like I said, you are too dumb or lazy to figure that out yourself. Another thing, the video even covers the VCT delete. Your car is running like ass because you didn't set the crank timing correctly. Not long now before that P0340 or other cam related code pops up.
 
#17 ·
FordMan59 said:
The Haynes manual covers a lot more than just changing a timing belt for less than twice the cost.
Even he said his free Haynes manual was useless, and it is useless. I've forgotten more about this car then many of you will ever know.

Go back and read the post. I never said he had to buy the disc if he wanted my help. I gave all the information he needed to find the FREE text versions I wrote that are posted here and on Team ZX2.
 
#18 ·
Some people just need pictures of every individual step. If I didn't have any more confidence in my ability to work on my car than that I'd just take it to someone who knew how. I think you had a legitimate question and the problem was resolved. In reality his FREE Haynes manual did tell him how to change the belt since the cam alignment tool could only be installed one way, but he just wanted to be sure. I'm glad you ask the question since my Contour has the Z-tech engine. Now I'll know the answer to that question whenever I change the timing belt on it. That's what an online forum is supposed to be for, asking questions and helping one another out. Did you have to buy the alignment tool from a dealer or is it available through a chain auto parts store? Yeah I'm too lazy to pick up the phone and call to find out. :lol:

I've had several people on the forum request information from me in PM's in the 2 1/2 months I've been a member, but I didn't call any of them dumb because they didn't know the answer to their question, many of them are probably as knowledgeable or more knowledgeable than I am. They just needed help and ask and I was willing to lend a hand.
 
#19 ·
"No topics or posts met your search criteria"

Error every time I tried to search for something. I tried the following searches before asking the question.

"ZX2 timing belt replacement" got the above message
"Zx2 timing belt" got the above message
"Zx2" got the above message

I can only assume that the search function is crapped out, I tried again today with just "ZX2 timing belt" and got 200 pages as a result, the HOW-TO wasn't on the first page. I clicked "next" on the bottom and got the above error message. Again I will assume there is a problem with the search function.

Yep me dumb and lazy. Personal attacks make you cooler and more knowledgeable than everyone here, you have proven that. I never saw a single link showing anyone a single thing about where the text information is.

Have fun folks in the end I didn't need to even come here and ask anything but I will continue to share what I have figured out on my own in case some one else has a similar problem.
 
#22 ·
I knew last night that the timing wasn't right. Seems a little more than obvious anyway.

Yes gamma I rechecked and it was retarded by 2 teeth, not cool LoL.

I cannot be certain why it would jump that much, entirely possible that I jacked it up from the start. But why did it run awesome for a mile or so then turn to garbage. I'm chalking it up to WTF and I spose it doesn't really matter. Reset TDC, and reset the timing belt and once again it's running great.

All without a video, imagine that. VCT solenoid remains unplugged and engine light remains ON :p

Don't care, not even a little bit. It's just extra dashboard illumination right now. In case anyone wonders, it was the bottom idler pulley that caused all the trouble, I found it (plus the bearings) in little pieces inside the protective shroud (under the crank).
Not to mention little pieces of plastic melted to the tensioner and 2nd idler pulley. What a mess.
 
#23 ·
Btw FordMan, I didn't use a purchased tool for the alignment. I used a couple of spare door hinges.

Sure there is room for 1 continuous piece of flatstock or angle iron. I had a couple of exterior (House) door hinges just sitting there.

I dunno if you have ever had just a hinge in your hand but you can fold them flat in one direction, if you try to flip them the other direction it will make a V and you cannot push them further. (I'm rambling here)....

Anyhow I folded em both flat so the metal is doubled up and they fit Perfectly, not to mention they bridged across the head quite nicely; no movement from the cams at all. An interior door hinge has thinner metal plus they are a tad smaller, not certain if they would work. If you want I can give the exact dimensions of the hinges.

While folded together the hinges are 3.5" X 2"
Total thickness is 3/16" Heavy (perhaps about 1/128th more) - Can't find my Mic sorry.
 
#24 ·
Glad it was something fairly easily fixable. I have found that the TB length from the top mid of the cam gears should be 14 teeth...it's easy to put the belt on and have that distance 15 or 16 if the tensioner is really loose giving a lot of slack. If this is the case, the belt can hop a tooth or two usually when you give the car some WOT..runs fine at idle, part throttle but when you goose it, off goes the timing. Door hinge..good deal...also the large angle irons (10") at Lowe's is 3/16" wide..cut off one side and you've got a deal cam lock tool.
 
#25 ·
gamma500 said:
Glad it was something fairly easily fixable. I have found that the TB length from the top mid of the cam gears should be 14 teeth...it's easy to put the belt on and have that distance 15 or 16 if the tensioner is really loose giving a lot of slack. If this is the case, the belt can hop a tooth or two usually when you give the car some WOT..runs fine at idle, part throttle but when you goose it, off goes the timing. Door hinge..good deal...also the large angle irons (10") at Lowe's is 3/16" wide..cut off one side and you've got a decent cam lock tool.
 
#26 ·
Total time spent actually working on this wasn't to bad. Every day I waited until afternoon to start. Temps are crazy cold right now, no garage, air tools freezing up a bit. I quit everyday at about 5:00pm just before the sun went down.

If I were to subtract the amount of time I spent allowing the tools to warm up, not to mention the time I spent warming up. Trying to figure out how to put the cam alignment tool took only a few seconds, so all in all I didn't waste to much time.

Hard to determine exactly, but in the summer time I could do this in about 3.5 to 4.5 hours. Really wasn't to bad, weather not withstanding.
 
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