[gafatwork]

I an new to the forum, but unfortnately my timing belt broke the other day. I was wondering if you guys could tell me if the engine is an interference engine that would bend or break valves in a case like this? I am hoping that it is not, but I figured that I would ask the experts.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[marshpoprock]

Welcome. And no, it is not.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Nope, it's non-interference, but check things just in case...some have been known to bend a valve, although that's been at high revs on the freeway. A rule of thumb is to change the belt every 40 thousand miles at most. I try to change mine every 30k since a new belt costs $8 here.

 

[gafatwork]

Thanks for the replies, that makes me feel better about it. I see that new belts here are $9.99. Sounds like it it worth the time and trouble to change it periodically.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Ford said 60k, but I've never seen a belt last that long. If you're handy with a shop press, you could look into the 2nd gen round tooth belts, which are said to last a solid 100k. You'd have to swap the cam and crank pulleys (easy) and then the water pump (not as easy). You can't just slap on a 2nd gen water pump, either, as the bolt pattern changed. Kind of annoying, I think.

 

[gafatwork]

Thanks for the info....

 

[jfarcas]

I can attest to the longevity of the 2nd gen belt. Just replaced my wagon's belt a few months ago and it had at least 100k on it. No cracks anywhere, slightly brittle, but could have gone strong another 20k.

Someone chime in here if there's a better solution to this problem I had, but:

Just a warning - if you're doing the t-belt yourself there are a few pain in the butt bolts to get to. The one that gave me particular trouble was rearmost bolt on the t-belt tensioner. Had to fabricate a 90 degree bended 10mm wrench to get something to fit in there. That, and I also had to cut a small part of the unibody to access the crank pulley bolt.

Other than that, not too bad of a job. You get more room to work than other t-belts I've done on newer 4 cyl engines.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

I use either a 10mm deep offset box wrench, or a 13/32 socket with shallow yoke 1/4" drive u-joint...the latter works much better. Have you been doing belt changes on the modern Hyundais, Farcas?

 

[jfarcas]

Yeah, I've done only the 4 cylinder engines so far, the 1.6 and the 2.0. Nice setup actually. Even with DOHC, they manage to make it a pretty easy job. The exhaust cam is driven by the crank via timing belt and sprocket. Then, at the other end of the exhaust cam there is a small sprocket that drives the intake cam. This is also the location for the CVVT system (variable intake timing). Timing them is easy, the cam never slips if you're at TDC, and the tensioner setup isn't bad. They're still using V-belts, that's the only pain - so you've got 3 different belts to take off before you can get down to the cover. They recommend service at 60k, but the timing belt always looks great.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Wow, I thought V-belts went out of style with huge engines, mullets, and the early 80's.

 

[jfarcas]

Me too. They're ribbed belts, but not serpentine, just to clarify. ...and I've always wanted a mullet, but never thought I could handle all the party in the back...

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Looks like I'm part of the belt changing crowd...only 10k on mine and it fell apart. Now I get to see if my engine is still good, as I'm worried about the milled head and valve clearance.

 

[BlkY2k]

Looks like I'm part of the belt changing crowd...only 10k on mine and it fell apart. Now I get to see if my engine is still good, as I'm worried about the milled head and valve clearance.

G/L and +1 on the 1/4 drive and wobble, works great.