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Hello, I have 83 Escort GL wagon. The bolt nearest the engine on the upper passenger side motor mount has broken off.
It was like that when bought the car 10 years ago and no one ever complained but this year they want it fixed for state inspection. Maybe I will try easy-out but most likely it will have to be drilled out and threads cleared with a tap as it seems frozen in there and looks to be steel in aluminum. Anybody know what the thread is on this bolt? Looks to be a 1/2" bolt but of course this model, it could be metric, in could be inch, coarse or fine. And is it a bolt or a stud? Picture in the shop manual looks more like a stud, but hard to tell. Thanks
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You might get lucky by welding a nut to the bolt, fill the nut with weld and sand/grind it down to make it look like a bolt is there. Or you can use the same nut to brake the bolt free. You may have to weld the nut back on a few times to get it out all the way.

As for your question on the bolt size and threading, @1982 EXPert might know that. But If I had to guess its ether 1/2 or m13
 

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1987 Escort GL Wagon
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On my 1987 GL Wagon, the passenger side motor mount has a bolt and a stud. The stud has a nut on it. Here's a picture of an engine out of another 1987 that shows the mount and the stud. The bolt and the nut on the stud have been removed.
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1987 Escort GL Wagon
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The pictures are a bit confusing as they are taken from different angles.
It looks like yours is aluminum and the other one is cast iron.
Yeah, it is a bit confusing. I went out to my 1987 Wagon and took this picture showing the mount in place with the hex bolt and the stud with nut. In 1987, the fastener closest to the engine is the hex bolt. This takes a 15mm socket. The fastener away from the engine is the stud with the nut. This nut takes an 18mm socket.
So my guess is that the 1983 engine mount is correct as is, with the addition of a nut on the stud.
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1987 Escort GL Wagon
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I just zoomed in on the original poster's picture, and I think it shows the stud broken off below the bracket. If so, I guess the earlier ideas of easy-out, or welding a nut on, would be the options. Sorry to confuse things. I should have looked at the picture more closely before posting.
 

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Ahh, the fun things of owning a classic car in the rust belt. Maybe just super glue a nut with a partial bolt shaft in it to satisfy the inspector? #notleagaladvice #atyourowmrisk
 

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Hey hold up right now! Don't try anything yet, remove the entire mount form the car AND engine, on these 81-83 mounts that rear "bolt" is a stud that I recall is pressed into the bottom piece (from the top) then encapsulated by a nut on both ends.

Simply welding onto the end or trying an easy out then reefing on it will break tools or worse, destroy that mount.
 

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Hey hold up right now! Don't try anything yet, remove the entire mount form the car AND engine, on these 81-83 mounts that rear "bolt" is a stud that I recall is pressed into the bottom piece (from the top) then encapsulated by a nut on both ends.

Simply welding onto the end or trying an easy out then reefing on it will break tools or worse, destroy that mount.
Wait pull the motor? that's easy for you to say. lol. I'm guessing he could put a jack or transmission stand under the motor and not have to pull it all together ?
 

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Wait pull the motor? that's easy for you to say. lol. I'm guessing he could put a jack or transmission stand under the motor and not have to pull it all together ?
Correct, I meant remove the mount from the block and car, the engine can remain suspended via method of your choosing. Good time to lower it a bunch to do the timing belt haha
 

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Correct, I meant remove the mount from the block and car, the engine can remain suspended via method of your choosing. Good time to lower it a bunch to do the timing belt haha
Ho, now that makes more since. pulling a motor all together for a stud seems like a lot of work, but it would not be the first teim a car maker mad a job hard
 
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